Need Some Advice - Boat Stranded 40+ miles from home

[Tlynch99]

Hello,

I need some advice with a tough situation I am in. I have a 1992 330 Sundancer that we took this weekend from Boston to Provincetown Ma, about 40 miles away. We had a great Friday night and on Saturday afternoon I figured I would run the engines for a few minutes. Port side started right up and the sound calmed down as water muffled the exhaust, then I started the starboard side and the volume of the exhaust never quieted down. Strange I thought, I left it running and went to look at the amount of water coming out to exhaust port, there was only a small stream, no where near the normal amount. The sound of the exhaust remained loud and what looked like steam was now coming out of the exhaust port. I let the engine run for another 4-5 minutes and then shut it down when the temperature went over the 170 degree mark where it normally operates.

I then proceeded to check the strainers, no clogs, and took the hose off the input side of the raw water pump and tried to back flush it a bit with a hose. I put everything back together and ran the engine again. Same situation.

What' strange to me is that the raw water pump and mechanical fuel pump are an assembly and both were changed at the beginning of last season. Could this be an impeller problem or something else?

So the question now, is what do I do with the boat being 40+ miles away from home and the boat yard in Provincetown saying it will be atleast a week before they can look at it? I'll have a new impeller part tomorrow, but I am worried it's not the impeller since the pump was new at the beginning of last year.

Sea Tow suggested I run the boat home on one engine, and that they will assist in helping me dock, but I am a bit nervous about the prospect for 40+ miles on one engine...

Other ideas?

Thanks for the Advice!

 

[fdough1]

I had my port engine lose its raw water pump about a month ago when I was on a trip. Had to limp back and dock on one engine. It was ok just slow going. I only had to go ten miles though. Boat handled ok. Even docked it with little issue. Just laid it against port piling and used starboard engine to pivot on the piling.

BTW The fact that you are getting low water volume sure feels like an impeller.


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[Crushin It]

Sounds like an impellar to me as well. Can you check on the availability of a mobile mechanic in the area who might be able to get to you quicker based on your situation?

 

[Crushin It]

Also, why not have SeaTow tow you home if you have their coverage?

 

[Tlynch99]

Mark,

I have called sea tow and they basically said head out on one engine and then they will meet me and tow me home, so I guess that is an option. I am calling around for mobile mechanics as well. Thanks for that suggestion.

Tom

 

[Vince_nj1]

Sounds like an impeller. And be careful running the engine that way. Without sufficient water running through the exhaust you can burn a hole in the exhaust hoses running from the risers and then you will be pumping exhaust and water into your bilge.
I will throw this out, but probably not your issue. I had an issue when I launched this year. I was in the sling in the water and started the engines. On my port engine the belt was slipping for a few seconds and then it got quiet. I assumed that it starting turning. I had very low water flow that engine and shut it down. I assumed that my impeller went bad over the winter. I took the boat back to my house on one engine (only about 3 miles) After further inspection I discovered that the belt broke because of a seized alternator and it was not turning the water pump.

As for taking the boat back 40 miles on one engine, that is a long trip. Do you have power steering on the running engine? I did a trip like that once, without power steering and it took 10 hours. I would not do it again unless I had to.

 

[Kelskat]

I would make the repairs where you are, or get towed back to port. I would not make that long a trip on one engine. It will take forever, and if something goes wrong with your good motor. I'd call around like Villain said for other mechanic options, or check with locals about references.

My personal rule is anytime you have a break down when safely tied to a dock, it's a good day!!! Be patient and this will work out. Better safe then sorry.

 

[Tlynch99]

Ya making the 40 mile trip on one engine sounds like a long trip, and with only having one good engine, it seems risky. I just spoke to another boat yard trying to find some mobile mechanics, they said due to how new the water pump is, it might be the risers. They mentioned that they can get scaled up and restrict the flow of water. Is there any way to test / check that?

My issue is it sounds like it will be well over a week before someone can look at it, and if it's NOT the impeller then what?

Tom

 

[Air O'Nautical]

I've once had a similar failure happen on a summer boating family vacation

We continued on our coastal journey single engine from 90 miles away making all the planned stops on our way home.
I've often said "I'd like a trawler" and this was a test into that area of boating.

In your case. I would NOT run the engine anymore without proper water flow.
You can make your little problem much larger!

Let's start in the water and follow the path to the engine..........

First, thru-hull grate from under the boat with a mask-fins-snorkel and a 6 in 1 painters tool to clean any growth (or?) off if it.

You could have some sea grass (or something else) clogging you intake hose before the strainer.

Strainer filter checked.

Follow the hose from the strainer to the engine and check any heat exchangers in that line.

Then, on to the raw water pump.
Check the belt....
Have the full rebuilt kit with you ($100) and some gear oil for the fuel pump cam.
Remove the water pump and fuel pump as a unit so, you can work standing up instead of suffering.
Inspect everything while changing the one piece plastic housing, seals, wear plate and impeller. Install the new impeller with some dish soap for lube.
Change the tiny amount of gear oil that's in the fuel pump cam area now because it's easy.

Continue on to the hose after the pump and you should find the issue by following the path.

You should carry some spare parts and tools on your boat for just this situation.
Even if your not the mechanic...its much better to have everything available for a mobile service to get you going than to wait for parts or a wrench.

 

[Air O'Nautical]

Ya making the 40 mile trip on one engine sounds like a long trip, and with only having one good engine, it seems risky. I just spoke to another boat yard trying to find some mobile mechanics, they said due to how new the water pump is, it might be the risers. They mentioned that they can get scaled up and restrict the flow of water. Is there any way to test / check that?

My issue is it sounds like it will be well over a week before someone can look at it, and if it's NOT the impeller then what?

Tom

I'm not going to assume the elbows (risers) are the problem until the more likely things are checked first.

If your exhaust elbows are 5+ years old they need to be changed.
They are a wear item and normally get changed on schedule, before they have a chance to leak.
Lets not throw $1000 at a $100 problem just yet....

 

[Alegria]

Well since you got there and the pump is new last season I doubt it is pump related.

I second checking the raw water flow from the intake to the pump. Close the seacock open the strainer Crack the seacock and make sure you get good flow if not then something is blocking flow. Time to pull hoses off or go under the boat. I suspect you picked something up in the transient slip.

Dumb question where was the tide were you sitting on the bottom when you started the engine that would restrict flow!

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[mjmason1]

Even if the pump was new last year, it could be the impellor. For short money you could change it yourself. If it doesn't work, move on. Try Justin Wall 774-238-0386. He might be able to help you. good luck.

 

[topnote]

Dont think I would purposely run single screw in open water.

Sound like the impeller to me. Always good to have an extra one on board...easy to say now right? Id also check the water pump belt and make sure its tight. Also, if possible check the hull strainer from the outside of the hull to see if you have pick up some seaweed blockage that the backflush didnt clear. Some issues may have caused the impeller to destruct so don't assume that if its bad its the sole source of your problem.

also would suggest waiting to change impellers, belts etc at the beginning of the season as opposed to the end. If the impellers sit in one place for too long they flatten and fail quicker. If you turn the impeller when its cold to avoid this it will also fail quicker.

Im in Portsmouth so, a neighbor. Good luck and be safe. Let us know how your doing.

 

[Korkie]

Just a thought no one else has mentioned. Check your heat ex-changers. Remove the round cap off the inlet side that the raw water pump hose goes to. Check and be sure there isn't any obstruction in there. The channels are quite small and it only takes a little foreign material (pieces of old impeller, stuff that has gotten through the strainer, etc.) to restrict the flow. I had been running progressively hotter this season, got to 190 and alarmed, and that was my problem. Took the ex-changers off and cleaned them with acid. The stuff that came out was surprising. Did both motors, and both ran 20 degrees cooler @ 165. If by chance anything gets by the strainer, that is where it plugs up. If you take that cap off you can see the condition easily with a flashlight. Long shot, but only takes about 5 minutes to check.

To check your pump, take the discharge hose off and put into a bucket, start the motor briefly and see how the flow is. If it is strong, issue is somewhere beyond pump, poor flow - problem found. Saves from having to dive under boat.

If everything was fine until you tried to leave, then I would be really suspicious of a clogged intake, as suggested earlier. Definitely rule that out first.

 

[Tlynch99]

Thanks Korkie for the additional suggestions. I think my cooling system has an oil cooler before getting to the heat exchanger, so maybe I should try and look there too.

Just a thought no one else has mentioned. Check your heat ex-changers. Remove the round cap off the inlet side that the raw water pump hose goes to. Check and be sure there isn't any obstruction in there. The channels are quite small and it only takes a little foreign material (pieces of old impeller, stuff that has gotten through the strainer, etc.) to restrict the flow. I had been running progressively hotter this season, got to 190 and alarmed, and that was my problem. Took the ex-changers off and cleaned them with acid. The stuff that came out was surprising. Did both motors, and both ran 20 degrees cooler @ 165. If by chance anything gets by the strainer, that is where it plugs up. If you take that cap off you can see the condition easily with a flashlight. Long shot, but only takes about 5 minutes to check.

To check your pump, take the discharge hose off and put into a bucket, start the motor briefly and see how the flow is. If it is strong, issue is somewhere beyond pump, poor flow - problem found. Saves from having to dive under boat.

If everything was fine until you tried to leave, then I would be really suspicious of a clogged intake, as suggested earlier. Definitely rule that out first.

 

[Air O'Nautical]

Thanks Korkie for the additional suggestions. I think my cooling system has an oil cooler before getting to the heat exchanger, so maybe I should try and look there too.

Yup, right off the raw water pump you'll find the oil cooler/heat exchanger then, the engine heat exchanger.
Follow the path......

 

[magstang1]

If the repair is simple, make the repair where the boat is and drive it home. If it's more than a pump or impeller, limp home and call a tow if necessary. Whom ever does the repair will be the one honoring the warranty. If you have problems again after the "fix" do you want that shop to be 40 miles away?

I limped home on one motor 85 miles and 16 hours the day I bought my boat due to a blown motor. Guess what? The one they put in was bad and needed pulled. That would have been really bad if the repair shop was 85 miles away. I'm glad I limped home.

 

[Tlynch99]

Magstang1:

Thanks for the info. I am beginning to believe just taking a long day and driving the boat home slowly makes the most sense. I'll be back at the boat tomorrow and will check for more clogs. If I can't find anything I'll start preparing for the slow trip home and do it maybe Wed or Thursday. Do you have any words of advice on making that long trip on one Engine?

If the repair is simple, make the repair where the boat is and drive it home. If it's more than a pump or impeller, limp home and call a tow if necessary. Whom ever does the repair will be the one honoring the warranty. If you have problems again after the "fix" do you want that shop to be 40 miles away?

I limped home on one motor 85 miles and 16 hours the day I bought my boat due to a blown motor. Guess what? The one they put in was bad and needed pulled. That would have been really bad if the repair shop was 85 miles away. I'm glad I limped home.

 

[magstang1]

Don't run out of beer like me.

 

[magstang1]

Know your boat.

Understand what engine drives your power steering and which one doesn't.

Understand your charging system. You will be running for a long time on one engine. Do all batteries charge from one engine? Mine didn't and we almost got in trouble.

Have several functioning forms of communication aboard. Check your VHF before you depart and several times along the trip. Bring a phone charger. They discharge quickly while searching for signal.

Dont run out of fuel.

Dont run out of snacks.

Make sure you have a good anchor aboard. What happens when all else fails?

We went slow. 1700 RPM or so.

Be aware of current. The river cut my speed in half.

Know your insurance and towing policy. My tow is covered 100% if I'm in the lake but only 50% if I'm picked up at a dock.

Did I mention the beer thing?