Need new fridge. DC or AC/DC?

[Jim_M]

I have to replace the Norcold unit that came with my boat as it gave up it's ghost last season. The Norcold unit that came out was AC/DC operation. I'm looking at various brands and they all seem to cost about $100 more for the AC option. I'm wondering, what would be the advantage of having AC and DC operation, versus DC only?

 

[JimG]

AC/DC would be less strain on your batteries/charger when on generator/shore power.

 

[rondds]

I've often wondered about the necessity of DC operation at all. On short runs the box stays cold and you can always run the genny (many do while underway anyway). Not sure it's worth 6-7x the cost of a "dorm" type AC fridge for the option of DC power.

 

[Larry]

I just ordered a Nova Kool 5.8 cubic ft refrigerator for my 330, and I ordered it DC only. From the information I was able to get I found that these refrigerators run on 12 vdc and they use a converter internally to change the 110 vac power down to the 12 volts, so I figured I would just use my on board charger for this purpose and save about $250, and eliminate the posability of another part to go bad...

 

[Redhook98]

I replaced my Norcold with a $120 dorm type frig. Works perfect and I am never off the gen or shore power long enough to make a difference.... Better then paying $1000 for the replacement!

 

[Alex F]

IMO, the best way to answer your question is simply knowing how you're using your boat and how you're planning to use it in the future. If you at a marina (home or transient) 95% of the time, then just AC will do the job. But, if you stay on the hook for each weekend the outcome is different. If you're planning to use the genny to compensate the lack of 12v DC, it's kind of silly to run it just for the fridge since 12v versions demand very little juice. Your answer also depends on how long you're planning to keep the boat. If you think that you'll upgrade in the next year or two, then this could also be somewhat of an insentive to keep the cost lower and get cheaper 110v. unit.

 

[Jim_M]

Thanks for the replies from all. To be clear, I'm not even considering an AC only unit, but I am considering a DC only unit. I'm really wondering why I should have an AC option and pay extra for it. I've seen the reply from JimG that speaks of extra work for the converter as the only compelling argument for the AC/DC unit.

 

[Woody]

For only a 100 bucks more I'd get the AC version just because.

 

[rondds]

If the difference is that small, I'd get the AC/DC - thinking about resale.

 

[Pietro]

What you should avoid is to buy another Norcold!
It has an AC compressor and when on DC it runs through an inverter that is prone to failure.
That’s what I experienced twice before buying a fridge with a 12V DC Danfoss compressor (Vitrifrigo in my case).
Now when it’s connected to the 110 the compressor will run thanks to a converter that is much more reliable!

 

[Alex F]

Thanks for the replies from all. To be clear, I'm not even considering an AC only unit, but I am considering a DC only unit. I'm really wondering why I should have an AC option and pay extra for it. I've seen the reply from JimG that speaks of extra work for the converter as the only compelling argument for the AC/DC unit.

In that case I would replace it with what was installed originally, which is AC/DC version as the boat is equiped to pperate this version properly.

If I recall, my 240DA had similar unit. While fixing the stove I was able to see how the fridge was hooked up. It was plugged in to a marine DC/AC inverter, which whould automatically switch to the appropriate power source when AC was available. Well, at least this is how I understand it's operation.

I don't think we hear too many inverters go bad, so if I was in your situation I'd get AC/DC. Chances are you'll get couple of years from the original inverter. What could be the worst case? The inverter goes bad and you'll have to get a new one for couple of hundred. At that point you'll have fairly new fridge and new inverter to keep you going for a good number of years.

What you should avoid is to buy another Norcold!
It has an AC compressor and when on DC it runs through an inverter that is prone to failure.
That’s what I experienced twice before buying a fridge with a 12V DC Danfoss compressor (Vitrifrigo in my case).
Now when it’s connected to the 110 the compressor will run thanks to a converter that is much more reliable!

When I was installing cockpit fridge on my 320DA I had considered it and puchased Isotherm AC/DC unit. If I recall, it's got build built-in inverter that automatically switches between AC/DC, whichever is avalable. I picked it for several reason where the primary driver was Donfoss compressor. I was pretty happy with the unit. If it fits to replace the original Norcold I'd consider it. However, this will be only more $$$. I got mine from defender for about $950-$1,000.

Good reminder, Pietro.

 

[Pietro]

When I was installing cockpit fridge on my 320DA I had considered it and puchased Isotherm AC/DC unit. If I recall, it's got build built-in inverter that automatically switches between AC/DC, whichever is avalable. I picked it for several reason where the primary driver was Donfoss compressor. I was pretty happy with the unit. If it fits to replace the original Norcold I'd consider it. However, this will be only more $$$. I got mine from defender for about $950-$1,000.

Good reminder, Pietro.

Alex, I replaced my Norcold with a corresponding Vitrifrigo and I believe they have replacement units for every Norcold :wink:

 

[Jim_M]

Awesome advice from everyone. I was on the fence, trying to save a hundred bucks, but I've decided to go with the AC/DC model and I've selected a Vitrifrigo that is a drop in (or close enough). It's already wired for both AC and DC in the space, so I'll just use it as it was intended and built.

Thanks again, and feel free to keep discussing this in case anyone has the same question in the future.

 

[Pietro]

Awesome advice from everyone. I was on the fence, trying to save a hundred bucks, but I've decided to go with the AC/DC model and I've selected a Vitrifrigo that is a drop in (or close enough). It's already wired for both AC and DC in the space, so I'll just use it as it was intended and built.

Thanks again, and feel free to keep discussing this in case anyone has the same question in the future.

You will like your Vitrifrigo! It's colder, quiter and dryer than the Norcold!!!

 

[cwthom98]

I have a 1990 350 express cruiser and my problem is with getting to fridge thru the cockpit door as the old one I took off the stuff on the back and was able to get it thru the door but no luck on getting the new one on board. Has any one pulled off there cockpit door????