Need Mechanic FAST

jaywoodz

jaywoodz

Member
Nov 12, 2012
522
Richmond, Virginia
Boat Info
1999 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 350 MAG MPI Horizon w/V-Drives
Is there anyone locally in the Richmond, VA area that can take a look at my engine issue? So far, I've contact Danny Reid (Mobile Marine Service) from Urbanna, and he doesn't have the device to look at my newer engines. Also, I contacted Justin from Anchor Point, he's booked until mid/late May. I called Sea Ray of Richmond, they can't look at it until middle of May. Is there anyone that can take a look at my boat this week or next (at the latest)? I would really appreciate the help.
 
What's the problem?

Is it related to the overheating you discussed in another thread?
 
JimG said:
What's the problem?

Is it related to the overheating you discussed in another thread?
Click to expand...

I think I have that problem fixed, I needed to let the top off, then cut the engine on. I'm going to try again this week and double check. This is for my other engine, it revs to 3k, then randomly has a screeching sound, it sounds awful. It loses power. I've tried switching out new fuel filters, with no luck. I need someone to take a look at it, asap.
 
I will attempt to record a video, throw it on YouTube and post the link here tonight.
 
jaywoodz said:
I think I have that problem fixed, I needed to let the top off, then cut the engine on. I'm going to try again this week and double check. This is for my other engine, it revs to 3k, then randomly has a screeching sound, it sounds awful. It loses power. I've tried switching out new fuel filters, with no luck. I need someone to take a look at it, asap.
Click to expand...


Could the screeching sound be a slipping belt that needs more tension or to be replaced?
 
dpmulvey said:
Rugged Marine
804.778.4191

You may want to read the threads on Idle Air Controllers (IAC).
Click to expand...

David, I'll check that out. I've used Rugged Marine before, and mannnnnnn they are pricey! I was hoping to use them as a last resort, but I guess they are my last resort.
 
JimFromMD said:
Could the screeching sound be a slipping belt that needs more tension or to be replaced?
Click to expand...

+1. The screeching sound is the serpentine belt. My money is also on the tensioner. It's one of the easier things to fix or replace on the Merc.
 
dpmulvey said:
+1. The screeching sound is the serpentine belt. My money is also on the tensioner. It's one of the easier things to fix or replace on the Merc.
Click to expand...

I'm losing power too, for instance it holds at 3k until I rev up more.. and by more.. I mean a LOT more. I can't remember if you were out there when I revved it up or not.
 
Sounds like a water pump issue to me. That would cause the squeaking belt, and if not fixed eventually it will freeze up all together then break the belt. I don’t know about the older engines, but I know my engines will limit the RPM’s in the event of low raw water flow. This is done to prevent engine damage. When is the last time the raw water impellers were changed?

I’m not sure why everyone seems to put the blame on the IAC valve on issues like this. The IAC valves only job is to provide air to the intake when the throttle body is completely closed or idle condition. Once the throttle is advanced the IAC is no longer needed, so in your case, not related at all. The engine will run just fine at all ranges of RPM without the IAC as long as the throttle is advanced.
 
Call Jerry Cooper @ Coopers Marine in Ashland. I don't know if he will travel or not, but he's the most honest guy I know. I assume you need a mobile tech. Where are you berthed?
804-752-5835

Mike
 
I just talked to a workmate who races cars for a hobby. He's been tearing into engines for over 40 years and was a diesel boat mech in the army. Here is his take.

--Are all ignition pieces new?
--Last tune up?
--Have you switched fuel sources? (starboard tank to port engine and vice versa to see if it is fuel related)
--Disconnect tach.
--Run both engines at the same RPM and record where the bad one bogs down. Run both engines with one at idle in forward and the raise the other to speed and record where the bad one bogs down. This helps determine whether the loss is load or speed related.
--Have you checked the exhaust for obstructions
--Have you checked the intake for obstructions (ie impeller as brought up by hack4alivin)
--Dirty air filter.
--Change/remove (temporarily) the fuel cooler filters? A water damaged filter will not repair itself even after dried. The fuel has to go around the damage kind of like a blocked artery in the human circulatory system.
--Checked the bottom for blocked intake grates?
--T'stats opening?
--Crank position sensor connected?

============================

This is from a fishing web site and ironically, sounds like your problem. I wonder if a street mech would have the tools to perform the following in that the base engine is a 350 GMC. It's worth a call to some of your friends.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
reelnative
04-19-2006, 09:47 AM
sorry about my last post rick, my bad i didnt see that your motor was a 350 mpi i thought you had a older 5.8 ford, it still sounds like a timming retard issue but i think it is being done bye your ecm, your motor has what is called the guardian system on it what it is is a safty mode your motor will go into if any of 4 sencers reads wrong it will lower your wot to 90% of normal, if it reads low oil pressure, hight coolant temp, low sea water pressure, or eng overspeed, it will retard your timming via your ecm, to protect your motor,you will need to have a mecanic hook your motor up to a reader and read your ecm, will show a record of any event, that happened or is happining, also some other things that will give you poor performance are a dirty flame arrester, or your throttle not opening up all the way, or a efi system fault ( dirty injectors) all it takes is a few drops of water getting past your racor and those injectors will go to closing up. well i hope this helped, you will def need to hook it up to the reader to see what is really going on.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
hack4alivin said:
Sounds like a water pump issue to me. That would cause the squeaking belt, and if not fixed eventually it will freeze up all together then break the belt. I don’t know about the older engines, but I know my engines will limit the RPM’s in the event of low raw water flow. This is done to prevent engine damage. When is the last time the raw water impellers were changed?

I’m not sure why everyone seems to put the blame on the IAC valve on issues like this. The IAC valves only job is to provide air to the intake when the throttle body is completely closed or idle condition. Once the throttle is advanced the IAC is no longer needed, so in your case, not related at all. The engine will run just fine at all ranges of RPM without the IAC as long as the throttle is advanced.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I don't have a clue when the raw water impeller was last replaced. I will bring that up, but yes it's holding at 3k rpm, then when I give it much much more gas, it eventually goes up, but it seems forced.
 
spikedaddy99 said:
Call Jerry Cooper @ Coopers Marine in Ashland. I don't know if he will travel or not, but he's the most honest guy I know. I assume you need a mobile tech. Where are you berthed?
804-752-5835

Mike
Click to expand...

Small Boat Harbor, Appomattox. Prob around ~ 45 minutes or so from Ashland.
 
dpmulvey said:
I just talked to a workmate who races cars for a hobby. He's been tearing into engines for over 40 years and was a diesel boat mech in the army. Here is his take.

--Are all ignition pieces new?
--Last tune up?
--Have you switched fuel sources? (starboard tank to port engine and vice versa to see if it is fuel related)
--Disconnect tach.
--Run both engines at the same RPM and record where the bad one bogs down. Run both engines with one at idle in forward and the raise the other to speed and record where the bad one bogs down. This helps determine whether the loss is load or speed related.
--Have you checked the exhaust for obstructions
--Have you checked the intake for obstructions (ie impeller as brought up by hack4alivin)
--Dirty air filter.
--Change/remove (temporarily) the fuel cooler filters? A water damaged filter will not repair itself even after dried. The fuel has to go around the damage kind of like a blocked artery in the human circulatory system.
--Checked the bottom for blocked intake grates?
--T'stats opening?
--Crank position sensor connected?

============================

This is from a fishing web site and ironically, sounds like your problem. I wonder if a street mech would have the tools to perform the following in that the base engine is a 350 GMC. It's worth a call to some of your friends.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
reelnative
04-19-2006, 09:47 AM
sorry about my last post rick, my bad i didnt see that your motor was a 350 mpi i thought you had a older 5.8 ford, it still sounds like a timming retard issue but i think it is being done bye your ecm, your motor has what is called the guardian system on it what it is is a safty mode your motor will go into if any of 4 sencers reads wrong it will lower your wot to 90% of normal, if it reads low oil pressure, hight coolant temp, low sea water pressure, or eng overspeed, it will retard your timming via your ecm, to protect your motor,you will need to have a mecanic hook your motor up to a reader and read your ecm, will show a record of any event, that happened or is happining, also some other things that will give you poor performance are a dirty flame arrester, or your throttle not opening up all the way, or a efi system fault ( dirty injectors) all it takes is a few drops of water getting past your racor and those injectors will go to closing up. well i hope this helped, you will def need to hook it up to the reader to see what is really going on.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Click to expand...

Not mechanically inclined***

--Are all ignition pieces new? Unsure
--Last tune up? Unsure
--Have you switched fuel sources? (starboard tank to port engine and vice versa to see if it is fuel related) No
--Disconnect tach. No
--Run both engines at the same RPM and record where the bad one bogs down. Run both engines with one at idle in forward and the raise the other to speed and record where the bad one bogs down. This helps determine whether the loss is load or speed related. - I'll try that
--Have you checked the exhaust for obstructions: No
--Have you checked the intake for obstructions (ie impeller as brought up by hack4alivin) No.
--Dirty air filter. Not sure, I'll need to check that
--Change/remove (temporarily) the fuel cooler filters? A water damaged filter will not repair itself even after dried. The fuel has to go around the damage kind of like a blocked artery in the human circulatory system. I have changed the filters out and replaced with ones that work, for good.
--Checked the bottom for blocked intake grates? No
--T'stats opening? Unsure
--Crank position sensor connected? Unsure
 
I'm bumping the belts thread.

A slipping belt will scream its head off.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
IanBat said:
I'm bumping the belts thread.

A slipping belt will scream its head off.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

I don't think it's the belts, because it holds at 3k rpms and doesn't move much past that. It sounds awful. I'll post a video tonight.
 
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