Need Help Identifying this boat.

B

ban-ls1

New Member
Apr 5, 2010
7
Jefferson, Ga
Boat Info
Boatless
Engines
Boatless
I am thinking about purchasing this boat from a friend of mine. His grandfather gave it to him and he isn't really sure what year it is. Can you tell me what model it is and what year or where I can find this info. I could not locate any hull numbers. Also what do you think is a fair price. The Glass is solid but need new interior and i'm not sure on the engine and outdrive yet. Checking this tonight.
Thanks!

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searay.jpg
 
There should be a hull ID # on the outside of the transom, or possibly inside. The last 2 didgets represent the year the boat was made and perhaps you can then go to the Sea Ray archives on line.
 
You'll have to find the HIN to determine the year and model exactly. It sure looks a lot like my old '78 SRV-195 except for the drive. I don't know what years the runabouts were available with Mercruiser vs. OMC.
 
Get the full Hull ID # from the starboard side of the transom & call Sea Ray. They should be able to tell you anything you want to know about the boat when it left the factory. They will have no clue about that exhaust though.

As for the trailer, PLEASE be carefull.
 
I am thinking between a 1974 to 1976, SRV 195 what do yall think?
 
Free would be a good price! First of all, that exhaust is non standard. If they did something goofy like that, I'd guess the rest of the boat had some oddities in it as well as they attempted to save money on the maintenance. The trailer tires are another example. Those are undersized and I'm guessing those are not for highway use. They look awfully small. The trailer is going to require some love too. The cost of replacing and gettings things up to snuff may cost more than finding a similar boat in good working order.
 
????1973 190or200 ford pwr. look like a narrow beam???????
 
IMO, the fair price would be free. Does not look safe. The condition of this boat does not look like anything you'd want to get involved in. Get a survey done if you're seriously interested, before purchase... Good luck and welcome to CSR.
 
Hi,

All boats manufactured after November 1, 1972 must have a hull ID (HIN) number on the starboard (right) stern. By that time, most models would be shown as 1973. I own a 1972 SRV 240 with no HIN on the hull. Your boat is most likely a 1970-72 model judging by the style. You should have a BIA plate near the throttle that shows the maximum people and capacity, and that should have the model number and possibly year (mine does).

The motor looks like an 888 mercruiser, same as mine.

These are great boats. If the boat is solid, it will be a nice ride with some elbow grease and a bit of money.

Let us know!!!

Peter
 
ARCADIE IV said:
Hi,

All boats manufactured after November 1, 1972 must have a hull ID (HIN) number on the starboard (right) stern. By that time, most models would be shown as 1973. I own a 1972 SRV 240 with no HIN on the hull. Your boat is most likely a 1970-72 model judging by the style. You should have a BIA plate near the throttle that shows the maximum people and capacity, and that should have the model number and possibly year (mine does).

The motor looks like an 888 mercruiser, same as mine.

These are great boats. If the boat is solid, it will be a nice ride with some elbow grease and a bit of money.

Let us know!!!

Peter
Click to expand...

Thanks!!! I will check out the BIA when I get home. It must be a 70-72 because I searched and searched and found no HIN.

I think I can buy it for $750-$1,000. I got it running last night after cleaning the points and replacing the starter solenoid. The engine runs very smooth. The tilt/trim works down but not up. I think it just needs the solenoid, I jumped it and it went up. I will check to make sure it is getting a signal from the switch before I replace the solenoid.
 
Another thought...you can call the Georgia Department of Natural Resources and see if they have the record of the registration on the side of the boat. They may have the original serial/ID# on file...their site is http://www.georgiawildlife.com/

If you live in a state that requires a title, you will have to chase this info down to make sure the boat is free and clear. I've done it a couple of times. In Massachusetts, we need titles, no matter what.

As for the boat, it looks like it is in ok shape. If I may suggest a few things:

1) Check the bottom for any spots where the gelcoat has worn or been holed....as long as the fiberglass underneath is intact, and the area is solid, you can patch spots with Marine-Tex (Wal-Mart, boat places, hardware stores). The stuff is tough and will last.

2) If you are going to have problems, it will be at the transom. On any boat this old, the sealer (or no sealer) around the transom plate for the outdrive will be questionable. Water can get in and rot the plywood inside the fiberglass (also may let water into the boat).

3) The outdrive connects to the gimbal housing (this is what turns and tilts) by six bolts. Thegimbal housing has three rubber boots. A large one that the driveshaft goes through to the engine, a small one for the shift cable, and a medium one for the exhaust (the medium one can't sink the boat, the other two can if they leak). These probably need replacing...you can a kit online to do this for about $150 or less, but it is a big job and you need a couple of special tools. A dealer can charge over a grand for this. I do it in about a day with maybe $100 worth of special tools.

4) The outdrive itself may have worn seals from age. Check the oil in the lower unit for water (it will either drain water first or be milky). If it is, the outdrive will need resealing.

There are lots of other things, but this covers making the boat float. If you tap the transom with a plastic or rubber mallet from top to bottom, side to side, you should hear a clear tap. If it sound more like a dull thud when you get near the outdrive, that may indicate that water has entered the plywood. I have drilled small holes (about 1/2 inch) in the transoms of boats to see what the drill bit picks up. If it is light brown plywood, it is most likely dry. If it is dark brown/black or water, well, it is rotted. I patch the holes with Marine-Tex.

Sorry for the long message...I hope the boat turns out ok!

Peter
 
If the boat runs I would change the oil, check the belts, thermostat, and hoses put a new impellar kit in and fill with new mercury oil, and inspect the u joints and grease, check the gimble bearing if its not spinning smooth and free It needs replaced, look at the bellows the are usually good for 5 years or so I have heard people say 8 years. The main one I would check is the shifter cable bellow it will sink the boat right now. Then I would splash your old yacht. Not really alot to do just to see where your at. You need to sit down and make 2 lists, what the boat needs to operate in a safe manner and a list of what you want to do to satisfy you.
 
Well i had to change one of the exhaust manifolds b/c it was cracked and leaking water. I repaired it and and ran it today. No leaks! I also put in a new bilge pump. I am taking the boat to the lake tomorrow for a little test run. Cross your fingers! I did not replace the impeller, but it is working for now. If the boat floats and doesnt leak i am pretty sure i'm going to buy it. I am thinking i can get it for less than $1,000. If i do buy it, the impeller and fluids are the 1st thing on the list.
 
Trip went good. It didnt take on any water. The engine started every time. It did stumble under a load. Going to rebuild the carburetor, give it a full tune up and replace the impeller before the next trip.
 
My guess is a '72 or '73 SRV210 (if it has a cuddy cabin). It looks extremely similar to the 1972 that I just finished restoring. Check out the pictures on my profile.

Sturgeon Queen
 
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