Need help fixing trailer lights problem

beernutz

Member
Aug 16, 2009
427
Mobile, AL
Boat Info
2000 190 Signature BR
Engines
5.0L EFI 240 hp Mercruiser
I own a used 2000 EZ Loader bunk trailer (TEZ 17-20/22'
popup.asp
for what its worth)
which I bought along with my boat a year ago.

The last time I used my boat I was told one of my rear trailer lights was out. I decided based on looking at the light fixture that wasn't working that I would replace both the left and right light fixtures with Blazer LED lights for additional brightness and durability.

When I went to put them on this morning, none of my trailer lights was working. No tail, no brake, no turn was working on either side. I looked at the 5 wires coming out of the connector and the white one, which according to http://www.ezloader.com/Brochures/OwnManual/Manual.asp?page=12 is the ground wire, is not connected to anything and appears broken. I assume this is the source of my problem but I can't seem to get at the other end of that ground to reattach it. Any suggestions other than just rewiring the trailer from scratch?

TEZ_17-20_4000.GIF
 
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White = ground, red = stop, green = right turn, yellow = left turn, black = running lights, brown = marker lights. Brown and black can be one or the other or even both depending on the manufacturer.

Attach the white wire to the trailer at any bolt or screw that is directly touching the base metal if the trailer unless your supply end from the truck/car has a white wire in it. Then attach it to the corresponding location on the trailer plug side.
 
Boat trailer wiring looms are generally pretty cheesy. Typically on bulb based harnesses the white wire grounds the the trailer plug and each light is grounded to the frame by its attachment bolts to the frame. The frame then completes the circuit.

LED lights are potted and carry power lead(s) and a ground lead. Other than physically broken lights, bad grounds account for about 90% of all trailer lighting failures. My suggestion with LED lights would be to add white ground wires connecting the ground leads with all of the LED fixtures and carry them back to the front of the trailer where it won't get submerged. If you use marine crimp and heat shrink butt splices you my not have to do any light repairs in the future.

Henry
 
Thanks Bill and Henry. I'm going to work on the lights this morning if it will ever stop raining and your suggestions are very much appreciated.
 
I agree with Henry about carrying the white grounds all the way to the plug. On a typical trailer this is not necessary as the wires do not get submerged.
 
Well I spent over 4 hours yesterday and today removing the old lights and installing the new ones. Most of that time (3+ hours) was spent removing the completely rusted out old nuts and bolts that held the old lights in place. I used a combination of Dremel with metal cutter, drill, and good old hammer and chisel.

The turn and brake lights work now but I can't get the tail lights working yet. At least I can trailer during the day now and the new LED lights are super bright and a big improvement over the original lights.
 
I think I have a very similar trailer...I have a 1999 210 and a EZ Loader Bunk trailer.

I had some wiring issues a while back with my trailer. I kept blowing the fuse in the truck and then losing all lights.

It turns out that the wires had been rubbing on the inside of the trailer tube and all the insulation was gone so they would short out and blow the fuse.

It was at the very back of the trailer right were the wires came down the outside fore/aft tube then turned into the the rear tube. They had the wires were pulled very tight as they went around the corner.

I had to shrink wrap the wires and I think I might have even had to add a little piece because I could not pull any more slack.

I couldn't believe that they would build something like that and wouldn't be surprised if there are other trailers out there with the same problem.

If I remember correctly all you need to do is pop the black rubber plug off the back of the trailer and you can look in there and see what they look like.
 
I think I have a very similar trailer...I have a 1999 210 and a EZ Loader Bunk trailer.

I had some wiring issues a while back with my trailer. I kept blowing the fuse in the truck and then losing all lights.

It turns out that the wires had been rubbing on the inside of the trailer tube and all the insulation was gone so they would short out and blow the fuse.

It was at the very back of the trailer right were the wires came down the outside fore/aft tube then turned into the the rear tube. They had the wires were pulled very tight as they went around the corner.

I had to shrink wrap the wires and I think I might have even had to add a little piece because I could not pull any more slack.

I couldn't believe that they would build something like that and wouldn't be surprised if there are other trailers out there with the same problem.

If I remember correctly all you need to do is pop the black rubber plug off the back of the trailer and you can look in there and see what they look like.
We might even have the same trailer. Does your have a folding neck? You should be able to see the diagram of mine in a previous post in this thread.

I am concerned that while the galvanized part of my trailer seems fine, just about every nut and bolt holding various parts in the rear of the trailer like bunks and trailer lights has serious corrosion. My next piece of trailer maintenance after getting the tail lights working (in addition to the turn and brake) will surely be to replace those nuts/bolts with new SS ones. That, I fear, is going to be an even bigger PITA that the trailer light replacement was.

I had MarineMax do a trailer inspection last time I had it in ($75 :smt101 ) and they didn't mention the corrosion but when I was crawling around under the trailer removing the old lights and installing the new ones it was painfully obvious.

Thanks for the wiring advice.
 
Sorry, I didn't see the picture of your trailer earlier.

My trailer is different. My rear lights are built into the back of the platform behind the fenders.

The wires on my trailer that had the problem were actually running to the 3 lights at the back and in the middle (close to the ground) of the trailer.

They must have been and the end of the roll of wire and pull it so they just had enough.....
 
Sorry, I didn't see the picture of your trailer earlier.

My trailer is different. My rear lights are built into the back of the platform behind the fenders.

The wires on my trailer that had the problem were actually running to the 3 lights at the back and in the middle (close to the ground) of the trailer.

They must have been and the end of the roll of wire and pull it so they just had enough.....
That's because I snuck it in there after the fact. :grin: I had originally embedded a pointer to the picture but when I tried it, it didn't work so I edited the post and added a link to the picture.

Those three middle lights as well as the small lights on the backs of the fenders are my tail lights and don't work at all. I am thinking of bypassing them all and rewiring so that tail, turn, and brake are all handled by my new LED lights.

That's funny about the end of the roll idea. I'd never even considered that possibility. Like REM sang, its the end of the roll and I feel fine (ok, time to go home from work now).
 
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Just get a voltmeter and check to see if you lost power or ground at the lights. Then start working your way back fom the last light that works.

I bet you have a broken wire or lost a ground somewhere...

Oh, and it is "End of the WORLD (as we know it) and I feel fine"!
 
Just get a voltmeter and check to see if you lost power or ground at the lights. Then start working your way back fom the last light that works.

I bet you have a broken wire or lost a ground somewhere...

Oh, and it is "End of the WORLD (as we know it) and I feel fine"!
And all this time I thought they were singing about TP. :grin:
 
I always pull new wires when I replace lights. Why bother with the headache of fixing wires only to have to do it again soon. See if you can tightly tape the new wires to the old so you can pull the new in as the old comes out.
Do it nice or do it twice
 

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