I just purchased a used 1997 sea ray 175 that has not been left in the water, and is not bottom painted. I will be storing the boat in the summer months in a boat slip in salt water. I know I need to get the bottom painted with anti-fouling paint. Do I really need to paint the outdrive?
Need for Bottom paint on outdrive
- Thread starter Jammer
- Start date
MAKC
Member
- Oct 23, 2006
- 519
- Boat Info
- 1997 400 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillar
Painting the outdrive is so inexpensive, it doesnt make sense NOT to. Especially if its going to be sitting in salt water. If that boat was worth your money to buy, its worth your money to protect. Just my 2¢
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Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Jammer
Welcome to CSR.
I just bought a "new to us" boat. The former owner just ran his Visa card yesterday to the tune of $8K in unexpected repairs to replace this outdrive, contingent on the sale.
Make sure that your zincs are replaced and depending on how long you plan on leaving it in the water, the correct bottom paint. I have also heard but have not used Desitin rubbed on the O/D. The zinc in the cream apparently acts as a surface anode? I've never tried it but I think I would if I would leave my boat in the water.
Welcome to CSR.
I just bought a "new to us" boat. The former owner just ran his Visa card yesterday to the tune of $8K in unexpected repairs to replace this outdrive, contingent on the sale.
Make sure that your zincs are replaced and depending on how long you plan on leaving it in the water, the correct bottom paint. I have also heard but have not used Desitin rubbed on the O/D. The zinc in the cream apparently acts as a surface anode? I've never tried it but I think I would if I would leave my boat in the water.
MC1600
New Member
LoL! Those pictures make you like the poster child for OD maintenance!! (even though I know you didn't do it, you can still advocate!) 
gbolton
New Member
I just bought my boat this year and the paint on the lower unit of the outdrive looked pretty rough, similar to Nehalennia (except that is was only the lower part). When I was getting my gimbel ring replaced, the mechanic had taken off my outdrive. I took it home, got a paint remover (disc) drill attachment and stripped the paint and repainted. It was pretty easy and now it looks great. You can go to any mercury dealer and get the mercury black spray paint and grey primer. I did two coats of each and it I am very happy with the results. It would be a little more difficult with the outdrive still attached, but still doable. Just make sure to tape off your outdrive well, to ensure you only paint what you want to paint.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Yes; My boat will never look like this again.
As you mentioned, this was not my doing but indeed is a great illustration that neglect is costly.
As you mentioned, this was not my doing but indeed is a great illustration that neglect is costly.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Let's see pictures :thumbsup:
Well. . .I boat in salt. The last two years, the outdrives looked HORRIBLE at the end of the season. Barnacles everywhere. Not good.
And that was WITH the drives painted. First year, someone else painted the drives. Last year, I used the recommended "one can per drive". Next year I will use primer in addition to the "one can per drive".
BTW: The can costs $25-$30.
BTW: DON'T NEGLECT THE ZINCS
And that was WITH the drives painted. First year, someone else painted the drives. Last year, I used the recommended "one can per drive". Next year I will use primer in addition to the "one can per drive".
BTW: The can costs $25-$30.
BTW: DON'T NEGLECT THE ZINCS
gbolton
New Member
Yes, I will need to take some pictures of the end result. I will try and do that in the next couple of days.
Here is a picture of the outdrive before I had bought the boat:
It sure makes me feel good when looking at the end resut of my boat compared to what it looked like when we first bought it. It is a night and day difference.
Here is a picture of the outdrive before I had bought the boat:
It sure makes me feel good when looking at the end resut of my boat compared to what it looked like when we first bought it. It is a night and day difference.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
I hear that. I can't wait for later next week when the new O/D is hanging off the back :thumbsup: shiny pictures to follow that day.....Yes, I will need to take some pictures of the end result. I will try and do that in the next couple of days.
Here is a picture of the outdrive before I had bought the boat:
It sure makes me feel good when looking at the end resut of my boat compared to what it looked like when we first bought it. It is a night and day difference.
MC1600
New Member
If you check around your area, you can probably find someone local who will dive on the bottom every now and again. I found a guy that actually lives at my marina, and for $3/foot, he will clean-up below the waterline every other month in the winter, and every month in the summer. Worth the maintenance cost in my mind.
- Oct 3, 2006
- 4,404
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
- Engines
- twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
Hmmmmmmm.
Are you asking about outdrive anti-corrosion techniques or anti-fouling protection?
Anti-corrosion – make sure the paint is in top condition and that you have fresh zinc anodes. (salt water = zinc) What drive is it? Alpha 1, generation II? If you are going to leave this in salt water I would recommend you choose an aluminum propeller. Make sure you have that 6th anode that goes behind the propeller.
Anit-fouling – well, the good stuff got banned. It was determined that the good stuff was damaging the environment. It’s gone. There is no legal ‘great’ outdrive ant-fouling products on the market today, only ‘ok’ products.
You do not want to use bottom paint on the drive. The high concentration of copper in traditional bottom paint will result in drive corrosion.
Your choices are to let the growth happen or clean it by hand as you are swimming every week or apply the current available outdrive anti-fouling ‘paint.’ Its not a true paint so don’t expect this to replace the traditional paint and anodes you still need for anti-corrosion.
TRILUX makes Outdrive Anti Fouling Paint. Follow the instructions on the can, use primer + one full can per drive and you will get some anti fouling protection for about 6 months. Less time in high wear areas.
Are you asking about outdrive anti-corrosion techniques or anti-fouling protection?
Anti-corrosion – make sure the paint is in top condition and that you have fresh zinc anodes. (salt water = zinc) What drive is it? Alpha 1, generation II? If you are going to leave this in salt water I would recommend you choose an aluminum propeller. Make sure you have that 6th anode that goes behind the propeller.
Anit-fouling – well, the good stuff got banned. It was determined that the good stuff was damaging the environment. It’s gone. There is no legal ‘great’ outdrive ant-fouling products on the market today, only ‘ok’ products.
You do not want to use bottom paint on the drive. The high concentration of copper in traditional bottom paint will result in drive corrosion.
Your choices are to let the growth happen or clean it by hand as you are swimming every week or apply the current available outdrive anti-fouling ‘paint.’ Its not a true paint so don’t expect this to replace the traditional paint and anodes you still need for anti-corrosion.
TRILUX makes Outdrive Anti Fouling Paint. Follow the instructions on the can, use primer + one full can per drive and you will get some anti fouling protection for about 6 months. Less time in high wear areas.
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My experience, I bought a boatel kept 240 with an outdrive in showroom condition. Dropped it in for 4 months and pulled it out to the beginning of corrosion and paint peeling. I stripped it, zinc chromated, primed and painted with merc black again, added the prop zinc (Todd, be sure to get one if the new drive doesn't have it).
The next year if faired much, much better, but still not up to my standard so it was restripped and I used the trilux referenced above. After a very long season in the water (just pulled last friday) the drive looked great with no growth and no corrosion. It just had a few small spots where the paint came of. I'll be able to do spot prep with a new can of trilux next spring.
I highly suggest the trilux method, it is night and day from just the merc phantom black.
+I keep it in fresh, but nasty as hell, water than is infamous for eating drives.
The next year if faired much, much better, but still not up to my standard so it was restripped and I used the trilux referenced above. After a very long season in the water (just pulled last friday) the drive looked great with no growth and no corrosion. It just had a few small spots where the paint came of. I'll be able to do spot prep with a new can of trilux next spring.
I highly suggest the trilux method, it is night and day from just the merc phantom black.
+I keep it in fresh, but nasty as hell, water than is infamous for eating drives.
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
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- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
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- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
To get back to the original post, YES you must bottom paint the hull. Wacky as it sounds water is not good for fiberglass. There is a whole discussion on the merits of the various types of bottom paints, hard vs ablative, anti-fouling etc etc etc. The point is that if the boat is going to be in water (fresh or salt) full time it should have a coating to protect the fiberglass from water absorption.
Henry
Henry
- Oct 12, 2006
- 1,974
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- "On Vacation"
2006 40 Sundancer
Raymarine E125 & HD Radar + Garmin 5208
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- QSB5.9 380 Cummins
If yuo have an outdrive sitting in water, you would be well-served to keep antifoulant on it. I strongly recommend using the brush-on TRILUX vs the spray can. I have done both, on the same boat, in the same water and the difference is dramatic. The brush on could go for two seasons - it just stayed on the boat and provided much better protection. Makes sense as it is thicker and a better adhesion than the spray-on which is thinned out to go through the tiny spray nozzle. Of course it is more expensive...
Summary of my technique: sand, soap&water wash, acetalene wipe, tape mask, prime 2 coats, apply brush-on trilux 2 coats, then use the spray trilux for the hard-to get spots. Replace zincs before or after (each has advantages/disadvantages).
Summary of my technique: sand, soap&water wash, acetalene wipe, tape mask, prime 2 coats, apply brush-on trilux 2 coats, then use the spray trilux for the hard-to get spots. Replace zincs before or after (each has advantages/disadvantages).
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Yes I have been told the new unit will have the prop zinc, but since I'll trailer be trailering I'm not sure it's needed but it will be there.
The original post was in regards to painting the O/D not just bottom paint, but yes you're right, if it's left in the water a good bottom paint is highly recommended
shrike
New Member
- Dec 10, 2006
- 69
EVERYONE listen here. This is good advice. The copper will EXCELLERATE bi-metalic corrosion. That is why you have a 1" white gap around your outdrive. Copper and aluminum will not mix well, and will basically make you a nice little primitave battery which will also make you good friends with the outdrive salesman.
Painted outdrives are done out of ignorance, not intelligence.
2000SEARAY280SS
Member
I have to agree with gerryb on the process. I used the spray cans on my dual out drives and will use the brush on for the follow-up. Slime that does grow on the paint will easily wash off with a hose or pressure washer. Went half the season without the paint and what a job cleaning the mess that grew on it.
If you use the paint that is made for out drives then you have nothing to worry about. You can and should not use regular bottom paint for the out drives.
From the west marine advisor:
“Aluminum hulls and underwater metals
Aluminum hulls, outdrives and props require paints such as Trilux 33 and Trilux Prop and Drive Paint that do not contain cuprous oxide, which reacts destructively with the aluminum. Copper-based paints are safe for use on properly primed stainless and bronze. Zinc anodes should be left unpainted to retain their effectiveness.”
If you use the paint that is made for out drives then you have nothing to worry about. You can and should not use regular bottom paint for the out drives.
From the west marine advisor:
“Aluminum hulls and underwater metals
Aluminum hulls, outdrives and props require paints such as Trilux 33 and Trilux Prop and Drive Paint that do not contain cuprous oxide, which reacts destructively with the aluminum. Copper-based paints are safe for use on properly primed stainless and bronze. Zinc anodes should be left unpainted to retain their effectiveness.”
bnydish
New Member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 41
Well,...let me tell you about my situation this past summer. I purchased a 2006 240DA with 37 hours. This boat was kept "Imaculate" from the previous owner. I had a survey and felt confident that everything was OK.
Upon taking the boat from Lake Wylie to Lake Norman, I noticed a more that comfortable amount of corrosion on the outdrive.
I had the Sea Ray dealer pull the boat and get thier thoughts. Upon gentle persuasion and a really good maintenance manger, tey had replaced the outdrive and transom plate.
We were still not sure why/how this happened so quicky but have taken preventative measures so it does not happen again.
Installed two additional Mercathodes and put the boat on a HydrHoist lift. It's SOOOOOO nice to walk down to the slip and see the boat clean and safe.
Again,...cudos the the maintenance manager and Mercury for standing behind thier product.
Upon taking the boat from Lake Wylie to Lake Norman, I noticed a more that comfortable amount of corrosion on the outdrive.
I had the Sea Ray dealer pull the boat and get thier thoughts. Upon gentle persuasion and a really good maintenance manger, tey had replaced the outdrive and transom plate.
We were still not sure why/how this happened so quicky but have taken preventative measures so it does not happen again.
Installed two additional Mercathodes and put the boat on a HydrHoist lift. It's SOOOOOO nice to walk down to the slip and see the boat clean and safe.
Again,...cudos the the maintenance manager and Mercury for standing behind thier product.
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Salty Dog - LI
New Member
- Jun 15, 2007
- 60
GerryB's outdrive painting method and materials is right on!
The brush on Trilux 33 will last longer and be more effective than the spray on Trilux. I use the Trilux spray to get to the hard to reach areas, especially in and around the gimbal housing. Just don't paint the hydraulic lift shafts if the drive is up while painting! If the piston seals get torn up, salt water will get in and contaminate the pump fluid and start the corrosion process of the trim system!
2 coats of Trilux 33 on the outdrive should last you the whole season!
The brush on Trilux 33 will last longer and be more effective than the spray on Trilux. I use the Trilux spray to get to the hard to reach areas, especially in and around the gimbal housing. Just don't paint the hydraulic lift shafts if the drive is up while painting! If the piston seals get torn up, salt water will get in and contaminate the pump fluid and start the corrosion process of the trim system!
2 coats of Trilux 33 on the outdrive should last you the whole season!
