Need a part number for my leaking outdrive lube reservoir on my 280 Sundancer

[Danny Troy]

I think I found the culprit that has been causing oil in my bilge, and it looks like it's coming from the outdrive lube reservoir. I know people say replace the cap, but I see oil at the very bottom, on the two sensor wires coming out the bottom. I think I'll play it safe and replace the entire unit. Any idea how I can find the exact part number on this? I see several that look similar online, and I don't want to order a part, only to find out it's not the right one. The boat is a 2003 380, with a single 8.1L (496) engine with B3 OD.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You're 100% positive it's coming from that potted seal where the two wires are? Maybe the hose clamp is loose? Unless the cap seal is completely shot (which would be really odd), it shouldn't let oil out. Besides, there doesn't look like there is enough oil in there to come out of the cap - even if it does expand when it gets warm. But again, the cap is 'typically' not a problem.

If not 100% sure where it's coming from, clean it off COMPLETELY and wrap small pieces of paper towels in key areas to make sure you pinpoint the source.

However, aside from that, all the bottles are the same. If you're still concerned, you could order it from your local dealer with your engine serial number.

 

[Henry Boyd]

If Dennis hadn't said it I would have. I'd also add wrap the bottle with some paper towel as well. The cap may have been loose, or the seal of the cap might be bad (it only takes a nick), or the one way valve on the top of the cap might be bad.

As the drive is used the oil heats up and expands creating pressure in the reservoir. If the cap seal was worn oil could be pushed through. On the top of the cap is a one way diaphragm valve. It is designed prevent the system from going into a vacuum state when it cools after operation. If this is bad it won't hold pressure and may expel oil.

Henry


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[Danny Troy]

I do think the clamp might also be the problem. They have a plastic clamp on there now, and I was thinking about using a stainless clamp instead. That said, I'm wondering if either the cap is bad, or the wires aren't sealed also. At around $80.00 or so, I'm thinking I should just go ahead and replace the entire assembly. The boat's still in drydock, so I can't do any testing now. Luckily, I have very few items that need servicing this year, so the money spent on this part won't break the bank. Good to hear they are all pretty much standard, so I'll go ahead and get one online.

UPDATE: Just found one on eBay for $40.00 delivered. I won't mess with the old at all. I was able to get it without the bracket, hence the lower price.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The plastic clamp is plenty sufficient - but if it was loose and the hose was damaged, well that could do it. But at $40 delivered... yeah, "diagnosis" pretty much stops dead in it's track!

 

[Danny Troy]

From what I've read, turning the barbed fitting up to 180 degrees will not cause a leak. Do you know this to be the case?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I can honestly say I've never attempted that or even looked closely enough at the fitting to say. I do, however, take my bottle off once a year and clean out all the sludge build-up with Brakleen. You'd be amazed.

 

[Danny Troy]

Interesting. Never thought to clean it. I'm hoping the barb fitting is good to go as is. Wouldn't want to spring a leak in a brand new unit.