Navlight wiring

[mcmichael]

Hi
I have no continuity to my perko lights on the bow or my stern light. I pulled the deck lights and found that I only have about 3 inches of play and no connections in site. Does anyone know how they ran the original wires to the perko lights on deck and or how I might be able to identify the wiring running back to the nav lights switches?
Thanks
Mike

 

[bahamabreisus]

I would bet your problem is at the switch on the dash, or possibly a breaker. does you anchor light work ?

 

[tobnpr]

I would bet your problem is at the switch on the dash, or possibly a breaker. does you anchor light work ?

It's not the switch, he's done a continuity test on the wire- and it failed meaning there's a break in the connection somewhere downstream of the switch.

My guess would be that the hot lead from the nav light switch has to have a "branch off" connection near your panel, as there needs to be a lead running aft for your stern light- and one forward for the nav lights. Try to trace the wire from the dash switch as far as you can and see if you can find it.

 

[shadow]

Had the same problems on my 2007, 215 weekender. Changed fuses, bulbs.....everything. finally found out that my switch was no good. changed the switch and everything is great, now just have to find the chrome lighted toggle switch

 

[Lazy Daze]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I am inferring correctly, you checked continuity at the bulb contacts? Did you have the switch turned "on" when you did? If you didn't try it that way, make sure you have the power to the switch off when you do that.

Another thought... can you try jumping 12v to the switch?

Just a guess, but the wiring to your anchor light probably runs through the bilge. I'll also guess that the bow light wiring run along the seam between the hull and deck along the starboard side. In your manual, should be a wiring guide/layout.

 

[mcmichael]

Thanks for all the great responses. Let me give you a bit more detail. I took the switch out, cleaned the contacts and tested it. It works great. I removed the incoming power and the outgoing wiring. I tested continuity on all the lights and could only get continuity on one ground wire, which means that I have a break in several wires. My problem is trying to identify the wires that lead back to the switch. Does anyone know the basic schematic of how the wires run from the deck mounted perko lights to the switch? It seems odd that they would have no play whatsoever in the wiring running to the deck mounted perkos. It means that your only choice would be to snip the wires and rerun everything. That doesn't seem to make sense. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Mike

 

[Lazy Daze]

All wires are wrapped and tie-wrapped every so-many inches - that would explain why you're having a problem pulling them.

 

[parkerboatman]

I had a problem with the nav light on my 250 DA Squirrels ate the wires. Took me 3 days of looking. I kept looking in the dash. The problem was that I had left the window in the Head open just ever so slightly.The Squirrel then got in went into the cabinet along the starboard side and then ate the wires. The wires run just in the crock of the upper part of the roof line. Mine was under the Monkey fur. The only way I found it was byt the loose fur and padding.

Good luck

 

[tobnpr]

I'd call SR and ask them to email you a wiring schematic- they should have it.
If I were a betting man, I'd say the main feed pulled out of the butt connector where it branches fore/aft as I posted earlier.

Every boat I've owned has been wired the same way- the wire from the panel switch is run to the stbd side of the boat under the gunwale, it splits there and runs aft for the stern light and white nav light, and forward first to the stbd green, then continues forward around the bow and back aft down the port side to the port red nav light. Since none of your lights work, the break has to be very close to the panel.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I agree with the above - to have one wire break is somewhat uncommon. But to have two wires break is very uncommon. And then to have two wires break on the same circuit... well...

If you don't have your manuals, you can also download them from SR's site.