My overheating saga

Prior boat was a Rinker 342 with twin 6.2L MX and Bravo IIIs. Was overheating but not to the point of damage. Did a lot of hand wringing about adding thru hulls (mostly cost) and additional holes. Learned about the transition of the 3/4 through the transom and back to 1 1/4" to the pickup impellers and pulled the trigger. It was 2002 so I had 2 new Bravo III outdrives installed same time. Here are a few photos of the installed pick ups and filters. Big suggestion is get with the mechanic and choose location of the thru hull points wisely. Mine were installed in a very very difficult location to get to the valves. I had to make a special tool to turn them off/on. The mechanic didnt listen to me on installing center bilge where they could be accessed easier. To this day I wonder what midget he hired to get them down there installed. But, after installation, no overheating - Even though the original overheat was likely a kinked transom hose due to prior outdrive maintenance -identified when new outdrives installed. This system I had was "in addition to" the existing OEM cooling. Note the one photo showing the seacock looks like wide open space but its not. That space is only about 12 inches wide and its down about 36 inches in front of each engine.
Port side Y.jpg Sea Strainers.jpg Starboard Thru Hull.jpg
 
Pirate Lady said:
Mechanic just text, he leans to putting in a thru hull. Thru hulls worry me, especially one that must be open all the time, so he gonna pull the drive, inspect, then go from there.
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My previous inboard boat had a thru hull that had a metal pipe that extended higher than the water line. I could take the hose off with the valve open and no water would come into the boat.
 
If you do go with thru hull, make sure you off set it from the keel a bit. The thru hulls use a fake a lake toilet plunger like contraption rather than muffs. If you don’t have a flat surface you need to install transom flush or drive pickup to run the engines out of the water
 
ColoSR said:
If you do go with thru hull, make sure you off set it from the keel a bit. The thru hulls use a fake a lake toilet plunger like contraption rather than muffs. If you don’t have a flat surface you need to install transom flush or drive pickup to run the engines out of the water
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Makes sense, good point thanks.
 
Well, i got bumped. See Gas in boat thread. The boat full of fuel took precedence over mine. So i aint getting hauled til monday while that thing hangs in the travel lift while Maryland hazmat determines what to do with it. Fkn cursed.
 
Do be a little cautious with the garden hose; positive pressure in the intake line can pop off the intake hose to raw water pump.

this happened to me the first day I tried to launch my boat. The park service invasive species flush popped off my intake hose, my impeller/housing was destroyed before I figured out what was going on.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Well, i got bumped. See Gas in boat thread. The boat full of fuel took precedence over mine. So i aint getting hauled til monday while that thing hangs in the travel lift while Maryland hazmat determines what to do with it. Fkn cursed.
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Way is it idiots never just screw themselves up, I guess you have to be happy he didnt burn the marine down.
 
ColoSR said:
Do be a little cautious with the garden hose; positive pressure in the intake line can pop off the intake hose to raw water pump.

this happened to me the first day I tried to launch my boat. The park service invasive species flush popped off my intake hose, my impeller/housing was destroyed before I figured out what was going on.
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When using a garden hose its important not to turn the hose on full force. I would only turn the hose on about 1/3 of the way open and it was always plenty of water for the engine. Also, I would leave the valve open to the thru hull when I turned the water on. The water would then dump out the bottom of the boat through the thru hull. Right before I turned the key to start the engine I would close the seacock valve to send the water to the engine. I did it this way for 8 years and it worked well.
 
If you guys are blowing hoses off with city water pressure you're not tightening the clamps enough.
I have a clear top on my strainer and the motor is calling for more water volume at an idle with city pressure with valve on my house wide open.
 
scoflaw said:
If you guys are blowing hoses off with city water pressure you're not tightening the clamps enough.
I have a clear top on my strainer and the motor is calling for more water volume at an idle with city pressure with valve on my house wide open.
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It depends where you live. Our boat club is at the bottom of a large hill and the water pressure is very high. We have to put pressure regulators on our dock hoses or we "bubble" them. At 1/3 open our city water pressure is more than enough to supply water to a running V8 engine. Other places without the height differential won't have water pressure as high. City water pressure is based on gravity, which is why the water towers are always up high.
 
superwa said:
I’m also overheating and just can’t figure it out. 01 8.1 horizons. I now have new manifolds, new water pump, new hoses, new thermostat and new heat exchangers. No problems at idle, bring it up to 1,500-2000 rpm and the manifolds and risers get too hot. Someone mentioned there could be an issue with some cylinders running lean. Could that be an issue and this whole water piece wasn’t really the problem?
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When you replaced the pump what did the old impeller look like? My Port side always ran hotter than the starboard. One day I got in there early and pulled the hose off the oil cooler. I found veins for years past. I pulled about 6 to 8 rubber pieces that restricted the flow of water. When was the last time the system was back flushed?
 
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