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Chris,
Sorry to say, you have gotten a lot of well meaning, but inaccurate advice. Poured concrete blocks are a poor choice, mainly because concrete loses about 40% of its effective weight due to the effects of buoyancy. You need a denser material. We used to use two of the US Mail plastic boxes filled with concrete (about 3 90# bags worth) and steel to moor a 14' Zodiac. I got tired of having to reset the mooring two or three times a season.
If you don't have a lot of depth change, you can use a mushroom anchor, something in the 300-400 pound range should work well. You could also use a pyramid block as well, if the water depth plus mushroom stem length might pose a puncture risk to your hull. The next step is some good heavy chain. The chain is providing weight as well pulling strength, so for the bottom section don't be afraid to use something beefy like 1/2". You want to go with a length that can be pulled out of the water to get to the transition hardware to make inspection and servicing easier. In any event at least 5', 10' would be better. The upper chain length should be the depth of the water plus any variance. Basically you are shooting for the max depth. ALso don't forget you will need a swivel between the two chains. Some folks prefer the mooring balls with a metal stem, I've found the ones that allow you to pull the chain through work the best as the boat is always pulling on the chain and there is no load on the silly mooring ball stem.
Here in New England granite blocks are used commonly because they are cheap. I have a 1600 pound block on my bow and a 1200 pound block on the stern (actually delivered by the local mooring service). You say the beach is granite, you might be able to get something from a local quarry.
Henry
for some reason this came to mind!
"jane, you ignorant slut!"
I'm guessing about 5 ft. It's put away under the cover now. As far as I know it's the stock Sea Ray anchor.