Looking to buy a 23ft weekender this spring besides the motor and out drive is there anything about these models I should be looking out for?
Mid 80's weekender
- Thread starter dvx216
- Start date
moparlvr4406
Active Member
- Jun 29, 2011
- 4,462
- Boat Info
- 1985 340DA
1966 SRV180
(2)1960 Sea Ray 600
(2) 1963 808 Cruise-a-bouts
- Engines
- twin 350hp Crusaders 4.0 Onan /
Merc 950 SS
Merc 650
Merc 1100
twin Johnson 40
like any other...
make sure the transom, floor and stringers are solid..especially near the engine mounts
all parts are there and in working order
no signs of water leaking into the cabin area
make sure the transom, floor and stringers are solid..especially near the engine mounts
all parts are there and in working order
no signs of water leaking into the cabin area
Getaway
Well-Known Member
- Oct 13, 2010
- 1,077
- Boat Info
- 1998 290DA Sundancer
Lowrance electronics, Fishhawk, Scotty Downriggers
BoatWheels Tri-Axle Trailer
- Engines
- Single big block 454 MPI Mercruiser engine and Bravo III outdrive.
Check for soft transom and stringers.
flyer
New Member
We are also looking around for a 230 Weekender.
A lot of what I write you may already know, but it also helps me to go through the thought process in anticipation of buying the boat.
We have owned three other Sea Rays including a 1987 250 cc and a 1988 268wk. We have owned Sea Ray for 21 years. We really like these boats.
Here is the thread from a guy who has a lot of knowledge on 230's: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/25328-88-230-restoration-(rotten-transom) Food for thought!
I will look at the hull/stringers/transom very carefully.
Besides hull/transom integrity, completeness of the boat is extremely important. Canvas is a killer, make sure it has the canvas you want and its in an acceptable condition. Canvas is important and very expensive.
Make sure things work. I just turn every thing on. We have done this a few times and its better to have something not work or fail before you buy, than later. If the salesman is pushy or not helpful, ask for a shop guy to help you, shop guys tend to be very helpful, regardless of what they are told by management. If you are buying from a private party, then ignorance is often the answer, and that is not bliss. I carry what I need to do my check including engine cuffs and of course my engine compression tester.
Engines. I have been looking at this carefully. I like the 454's and they were popular here in CO due to the altitude and loss of power from sea level. The problem is that a 454 can tear up an Alpha drive. At lower altitudes this is even more of a problem. We will probably go with a 350 with an Alpha. I check compression and look at the oil on the dipstick and the outside condition of the oil filter. If I can, I will pull a sample of oil from the bottom of the pan, we have an oil pump that can be used for this purpose. Just look at it and see if its clean. I do not do an oil analysis.
Look at the hoses, are there little cracks, is the rubber hard and stiff? Put your thumb into one of the hoses and see if it cracks? These are old engines and the first thing to go is rubber. I will change the rubber in the fuel lines and almost certainly the bellows.
A trailer is important to us but its not a deal breaker. Just make sure you know the cost to bring it up to reliable road status.
I have serious concerns about buying a late 1980's boat. Our boats have been great, but the last time we bought the boat was only 10-12 years old and now they are 20-27 years old.
I have come to the conclusion that we are not interested in a low price fixer upper. We are looking for boat priced above the median in good to very good condition. A true turn key boat. Then, we will go through the boat and plan on spending about $2000 on just maintenance/security. The drive will be pulled to check the condition of the gimbal, bellows and alignment. Go through the bearings and brakes on the trailer. Get a complete extra set of wheel bearings, Batteries, I just trading them in, they will not stay on the boat, I don't care if they were installed 3 months ago. Probably do some rewiring and add more modern electronics.
Good luck, we may be chasing the same boat.
Rick
A lot of what I write you may already know, but it also helps me to go through the thought process in anticipation of buying the boat.
We have owned three other Sea Rays including a 1987 250 cc and a 1988 268wk. We have owned Sea Ray for 21 years. We really like these boats.
Here is the thread from a guy who has a lot of knowledge on 230's: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/25328-88-230-restoration-(rotten-transom) Food for thought!
I will look at the hull/stringers/transom very carefully.
Besides hull/transom integrity, completeness of the boat is extremely important. Canvas is a killer, make sure it has the canvas you want and its in an acceptable condition. Canvas is important and very expensive.
Make sure things work. I just turn every thing on. We have done this a few times and its better to have something not work or fail before you buy, than later. If the salesman is pushy or not helpful, ask for a shop guy to help you, shop guys tend to be very helpful, regardless of what they are told by management. If you are buying from a private party, then ignorance is often the answer, and that is not bliss. I carry what I need to do my check including engine cuffs and of course my engine compression tester.
Engines. I have been looking at this carefully. I like the 454's and they were popular here in CO due to the altitude and loss of power from sea level. The problem is that a 454 can tear up an Alpha drive. At lower altitudes this is even more of a problem. We will probably go with a 350 with an Alpha. I check compression and look at the oil on the dipstick and the outside condition of the oil filter. If I can, I will pull a sample of oil from the bottom of the pan, we have an oil pump that can be used for this purpose. Just look at it and see if its clean. I do not do an oil analysis.
Look at the hoses, are there little cracks, is the rubber hard and stiff? Put your thumb into one of the hoses and see if it cracks? These are old engines and the first thing to go is rubber. I will change the rubber in the fuel lines and almost certainly the bellows.
A trailer is important to us but its not a deal breaker. Just make sure you know the cost to bring it up to reliable road status.
I have serious concerns about buying a late 1980's boat. Our boats have been great, but the last time we bought the boat was only 10-12 years old and now they are 20-27 years old.
I have come to the conclusion that we are not interested in a low price fixer upper. We are looking for boat priced above the median in good to very good condition. A true turn key boat. Then, we will go through the boat and plan on spending about $2000 on just maintenance/security. The drive will be pulled to check the condition of the gimbal, bellows and alignment. Go through the bearings and brakes on the trailer. Get a complete extra set of wheel bearings, Batteries, I just trading them in, they will not stay on the boat, I don't care if they were installed 3 months ago. Probably do some rewiring and add more modern electronics.
Good luck, we may be chasing the same boat.
Rick
