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The guy who said drink beer!
Who is Stee?
I agree w/having the manifolds inspected. However, if I am going to have each one pulled for inspection, and pay the labor, shouldn't I just go ahead and replace them?
Ugh, I actually thought about that when the mechanic was doing compression checks.Absolutely. Just like when I do compression checks during inspections I always have them put in new plugs. If the boat fails inspection then, oh well, I donated a couple of hundred dollars in plugs.
Haha, keep the jokes coming. I wanted to reply to that post however I think the DUI boating gods would have got after me.I think I'm starting to get a complex. Gotta ease off the practical advice around here.
My 2001 Regal 3780 with twin 7.4 MPIs was the first boat I saw them on. I found out the hard way when the clamp on the raw hose to one of them broke while under power.Dumb question, do all Mercs have cool fuel systems? I've never noticed one in the engine bay.
That would have been a good idea but if you do have a freshwater boat there is probably nothing wrong with the manifolds. Have a look/see, manifolds aren't as cheap as plugs.Ugh, I actually thought about that when the mechanic was doing compression checks.
My mechanic spotted them when winterizing. A good mechanic can spot if bad without removing. So I just had mine replaced last month. Single engine 7.4 mercruiser parts, $1500 parts, $350 labor. Manifolds, risers, spacers, spark plugs, flappers.Who is Stee?
I agree w/having the manifolds inspected. However, if I am going to have each one pulled for inspection, and pay the labor, shouldn't I just go ahead and replace them?
I've always looked for rust/leaks at the riser/manifold gasket and water flow at the exhaust. I also put a temp gun on them. What else can a mechanic look at?My mechanic spotted them when winterizing. A good mechanic can spot if bad without removing. So I just had mine replaced last month. Single engine 7.4 mercruiser parts, $1500 parts, $350 labor. Manifolds, risers, spacers, spark plugs, flappers.
I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but I'm in the parts catalog under my S/N, and I don't think I have one of those cool fuels.My 2001 Regal 3780 with twin 7.4 MPIs was the first boat I saw them on. I found out the hard way when the clamp on the raw hose to one of them broke while under power.
It had rust leaks at the riser manifold gasketI've always looked for rust/leaks at the riser/manifold gasket and water flow at the exhaust. I also put a temp gun on them. What else can a mechanic look at?
Absolutely. Just like when I do compression checks during inspections I always have them put in new plugs. If the boat fails inspection then, oh well, I donated a couple of hundred dollars in plugs.
Who is Stee?
I agree w/having the manifolds inspected. However, if I am going to have each one pulled for inspection, and pay the labor, shouldn't I just go ahead and replace them?
Actually, I just put 4 NGK Iridium plugs in my Veloster, $48 on Amazon. So depending what he got I can see a couple hundred for 16. But the boat is getting AC or Autocraft since I replace every 40 hours, not every 100k miles.A couple of hundred bucks for 16 spark plugs? Details needed.
Unobtainium electrodes?
Thank you for the link. I ordered two sets, but was just curious. What’s the difference between these and the plethora of 8.1L wire sets on summit racing?Here you go on the plug wires.
https://www.michiganmotorz.com/crusader-8-1l-ignition-wire-set-a-c-delco
I would agree too. I paid $68 for 8 NGKs on Amazon as well.Actually, I just put 4 NGK Iridium plugs in my Veloster, $48 on Amazon. So depending what he got I can see a couple hundred for 16. But the boat is getting AC or Autocraft since I replace every 40 hours, not every 100k miles.
Is there a good video on how these work and how to service them? I pulled the blue plug out the other day and black water dribbled out.The cool fuel modules have a water inlet/outlet on the rear side. The starboard is easy to access from the middle of the boat, the port you have to lean over the drive to get to it, but it's easily accessible. These fittings tend to leak and have been redesigned about 3X. They don't sell the O-rings individually (square cut 0-ring), but you can make do with O-rings from Lowes/HD.
It takes qty (2) - #112 O-rings - #112 1/2"ID x 11/16"OD .103" Cross Section Square Profile - Can order from McMaster.
You can use qty (3) regular O-rings from Lowes - #10 size I believe.