Lumitec SeaBlaze X2 vs Quattro Recommendations

pyro

Active Member
Dec 4, 2018
287
CT, Long Island Sound
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 290
Engines
Twin 5.0L MPI Bravo III
Kohler 5ecd
Hi All,
I'm debating between Lumitec SeaBlaze X2 or Quattro underwater lights. White/Blue dual color only. I have a Sundancer 290 with 9.5' beam with twin I/Os. I would like to add 3 lights as shown below. However the SeaBlaze X2 draw 5 Amps each which put me at 15 Amps total, which is quite a bit for potentially having on for a few hours. However they can be dimmed via Wifi App or MFD, although a bit annoying that you have to dim them everytime they turn on.

The factory incandescent underwater lights that are downfacing under the swim platform are 8 Amps total and I would like to stay around there. I'm worried three SeaBlaze X2 would be completely overkill for a 30' boat. But some say they can never be bright enough. The quattros seem more reasonable at 2.1 Amps each, however they are not PLI controlled, and I really want to integrate this all into the MFD with the POCO link. I also expect they will be replaced by PLI relatively soon, but hate to wait around for an uncertain product to come to market.

Does anyone have either Quattro or SeaBlaze X2 that could help me decide? Is 3x SeaBlaze X2 overkill for 30' boat?

stern_uw.jpg
 
Glad you posted this, I am considering the Quatro line (4 of them) which seems to be fine. But I am thinking of using a relay to a switch to turn them on/off. A friend got them on his boat this year and they look great. Not too bright, but still looks nice. They extend about 4' past his 5' swim platform.
 
I never consider the length of the boat into the equation. Width and number of drives. With a 9.5 beam and 2 drives, id suggest 3 for better light coverage. The drives can create a shadow/void in the center, if you do not go with #3 in the middle.

The difference between those two lights in terms of intensity, is the X will be brighter then the quattro. If your water is relatively clear, three Quattro might do you.

Also note that with the dual color lights, that amp draw is with both colors illuminated. So how often at anchor, would you have both colors on? So depending on use, you may rarely see that 15A draw with the 3 X lights on at once both colors.
 
The Lumitec quatro lights draw 2.2amps per light max, there web site also recommends what Wylie_Tunes said about the number of lights when used with two engines for the same reason. But a good 10A switch would be just fine. I only stated the relay as I am going to use four lights and that is close to most switches max current.
 
I have seen guys go around the stern to the side with one light on the starboard/port side close to the transom.... I haven’t seen a picture of what that would look like....anyone with more info if it is better?
 
I'm in Long Island waters, so relatively murky. Maybe 3 ft visibility. I agree with two outdrives I need 3 lights, no question there. Wylie_Tunes: From what I can tell the older SeaBlazeX lights indeed pulled the maximum current when both blue & white LEDs were on. However both the SeaBlaze X2 and Quatros only switch between white, blue, and a undulating mix of white/blue. I do not believe they ever drive both white/blue full brightness at the same time. I'm assuming at most 50/50 so that the max current stays the same whether white, blue or mix. This would be the smartest way for them to do it, as it utilizes the power supply circuitry to its fullest in all color patterns. But I would love confirmation on this! If they were really 50% at single color, I would no doubt get the X2.

I called Lumitec on this point, and there tech support did not know the answer. If anyone has Quatro or SeaBlaze X2 and can test current consumption, it would be very helpful!

Blueone: I don't like the look of the light beams coming off the side. I know OceanLED has specific lights for side mount to difuse the light more than the headlight looking beams.
 
I think you'll be happier with the 3 X2's. I have 2 SeablazeX's on the back of my boat and while nice, I'd like it brighter (much brighter!!). The X2's are 50% brighter and with twins, I think the 3 light setup you propose will be very nice, and the placement would give a nice spread.

That is certainly a lot of power, but it can be wired on a 20 amp switch. You may need to add another battery or two and/or run the generator more. Same would be true if adding more stereo equipment though.
 
I just installed 4 X2's last spring and one died during the summer. Overall I'm not too happy with them at this point.
 
I have 4 Seablaze X2 on my 520DB and this summer 3 of the 4 failed. One got water in it behind the glass and it is obvious why it failed. The others have the finish inside the glass is failing. I am not sure if the finish failing is related to the whole unit failing or not. I am pulling them out this weekend to send back to Lumitec. They have a 3 year warranty on them.
40683084-D4BF-4ECE-9BCB-0A2ECB611F3C.jpeg
216147B0-0874-4601-BD8E-867CFB508FC0.jpeg
D9BC4662-C1FE-423A-844B-3124D2332510.jpeg
 
Are the X2 failures from new product introduction and Mfg issues?.... has lumitec said anything ?
 
Are the X2 failures from new product introduction and Mfg issues?.... has lumitec said anything ?
I am not sure what you mean by new product introduction and Mfg issue. As far as what Lumitec said, they said pull them and send them back to them and they will take a look. There is a 3yr warranty on them so I hope they are covered. I have solid 12v to them and the lights they replaced where halogen lights so my amp draw is less with the Seablaze.
I took these pics last weekend and I am going to pull them out this weekend and send back to Lumitec. The one that has water in it (First pic), I noticed last winter that the chrome was fading off of it. Last winter it looked like the lite in the middle picture. I didn't pull them when I noticed this because They all worked fine last season. I assumed it was just some cosmetic chrome plating that was failing. This season I got about 3 months in the water this year and the one that has water in it started flashing between white and blue end of June. I checked it our from the water and saw that it had water in it so I stopped using them the rest of the season.
 
I was under the impression the latest X2’s were under a year old... that why I said Mfg issues
 
@Jeremygavin: If you are pulling your lights out this weekend, would you be willing to measure current? Maybe before you remove, just cut the +12V power lead and connect in series with DVM in current mode, then cycle between the three modes and check current? If you could, I would very much appreciate it!

Although your quality report has me seriously concerned. What to do...?
 
@Jeremygavin: If you are pulling your lights out this weekend, would you be willing to measure current? Maybe before you remove, just cut the +12V power lead and connect in series with DVM in current mode, then cycle between the three modes and check current? If you could, I would very much appreciate it!

Although your quality report has me seriously concerned. What to do...?
The lights are not operational, 3 of the 4 are not working correctly as they are blinking on and off and I already disconnected the 4th one to see if could isolate it from the rest when it started to blink. With them blinking getting a voltage reading for you isn’t going to be helpful.
 
Do you guys have a good source for the X2’s?... I am seeing pricing from $300 to $600.... at $300 it seems a bit steep
 
It looks to me like you have a galvanic corrosion problem. I’ve been told not to paint right up to the outdrives. For this reason, when I installed my sea blaze x I stayed 3/4” away from the lights. My still look like they did from the box.
 
It looks to me like you have a galvanic corrosion problem. I’ve been told not to paint right up to the outdrives. For this reason, when I installed my sea blaze x I stayed 3/4” away from the lights. My still look like they did from the box.
The bottom paint is at least 1” away. I painted the rest of the hull next to the lights and the bronze ring with Trilux 33 which shouldn’t have a reaction with the bronze but maybe that is the issue. Are your lights bonded to the boats bonding system? I bonded them because the lights I took out where bonded. I was wondering if maybe this was also and issue.
 
I did not bond them. How do the zincs on your boat look? Sorry to hear of all the problems ur having with them they aren’t cheap
 
So after reading the Lumitec lit and watching someones video (not a lumitec vid), its seesm the lights have a blue mode, a white mode, then a 5-10 second transition mode. So blue only or white only and not a fixed blue/white mode. Just my take right now.

So from an amp draw standpoint, it design the system using the advertised peak.
 

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