Looking to buy Sedan Bridge 40/400...a few questions...

TechDoc

Member
Jun 10, 2016
59
San Diego
Boat Info
2005 390 Motor Yacht
Engines
Twin 480CE Diesel
Hello all,

I am a new poster, and hopefully a Sea Ray owner very soon. I am looking at the 40' sedan bridge model, ideally 2000 - 2002 model year, with diesel engines.

After doing a fair amount of online research, I have a few questions that I hope someone can help with:

1. How much of a problem is the balsa core moisture/rot issue? Is this a widespread issue? Are certain years or configurations more susceptible? Is there something I can look for while searching that I should steer clear from?

2. How much does a comprehensive survey that would detect hull issues like balsa moisture/rot, as well as a comprehensive review of the engines, drives and auxiliary systems typically cost?

3. Am I crazy to be considering a boat that may be 14-16 years old as my first big boat purchase?

4. Am I crazy to think that we can do some casual fishing and diving from the open area at the stern?

5. Can I comfortably carry a small dinghy/tender on the standard swim shelf? Any recommendations in regards to a good dinghy (carry at least 4 adults) and a compatible mounting system?

Thanks in advance!

P.S. - Sorry...just realized I should have posted this in the newbie forum. I re-posted in that forum, but I can't find a way to delete this one. I apologize for the double post.
 
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1. Some people steer completely clear of these type of hulls. But lots of 2000-2002 400DBs are out there without issues.

2. Two surveyors were used for my purchase. Hull and non-engine surveyor was $700. Engine surveyor was a few hundred. So figure around $1000 for surveyors.

3. A 2002 400DB with diesels in our marina is under contract. It is the buyer's first big boat purchase.

4. Previous owner of my boat used it for offshore fishing. He bolted outriggers to the outside of the bridge (you can see it in my sig picture next to the VHF antenna) and has five rod holders at the stern.

5. I have a 5' wide rib and am in the process of mounting it with the Hurley H20 mounts. Shouldn't be a problem to find a dingy and mount you like that fits on the swim platform.
 
Thank you for the quick reply and the good information. About the balsa core hull; do you have any sense if this is an isolated issue, and most hulls are OK, or is it common? Is it an issue that usually happens early in the boat's life, so if I find a boat that is good, am I safe. Or can it happen at any time? And lastly, have they stopped using this construction method, and if so, what years are non-balsa core?

Thanks again. As you can see, this issue has me a bit spooked. I absolutely love the boat, and think the going price range for a boat in the 2000-2002 vintage is right in my budget. I have looked for weeks at other Sea Ray models, other brands, and keep coming back to this boat. It really is a near-perfect match for my requirements.
 
http://www.fivestarmarine.net/boats-for-sale/

i understand and you are looking for diesels, but if you have any interest in a gas version, check out the 2002 for sale at the above link. This boat belongs to my slip neighbor and is truly in excellent condition all the way around. Owner maintains it with an open check book.
 
The question of balsa cored hull comes up frequently. Generally, Sea Ray boats have very few hull problems. Almost all you hear about can be traced to a lack of maintenance, abuse, improper mounting of added transducers or other thru hull fixtures, or previous physical damage that involved a cored part of the boat. A good surveyor can find high moisture areas with percussive testing (smacking the hull with a hammer), a moisture meter or infrared photography. But, moisture meters often lead to false positives when the surveyor isn't familiar with Sea Ray's layup methods. Dense areas will register high on the moisture meter. The meter hasn't found moisture but has identified a part of the structure where there is added thickness to the structure where bulkheads are tabbed, of part of the hull is thick in the mold like the chine or stern corners.

A mechanical survey on Cat or Cummins engines should take 4-6 hours plus travel time……the cheapest one I've seen was $800, the most expensive was $1500.

The going rate here on the Gulf coast for a quality hull survey is $22-$25/ft. and on a 400DB takes 2 days.


Good luck with your search……….
 
Thank you for the quick reply and the good information. About the balsa core hull; do you have any sense if this is an isolated issue, and most hulls are OK, or is it common? Is it an issue that usually happens early in the boat's life, so if I find a boat that is good, am I safe. Or can it happen at any time? And lastly, have they stopped using this construction method, and if so, what years are non-balsa core?

Thanks again. As you can see, this issue has me a bit spooked. I absolutely love the boat, and think the going price range for a boat in the 2000-2002 vintage is right in my budget. I have looked for weeks at other Sea Ray models, other brands, and keep coming back to this boat. It really is a near-perfect match for my requirements.

Yes, it was a pretty big issue. Those issues can happen at any time. A good hull surveyor is absolutely essential. I believe the 400DBs were Balsa cored from 1996 until 2002. I think in 2002 they went to a solid core boat. They have since gone back to cored hulls (it brings the weight of the boat down, increases speed and fuel economy) but they are not using balsa anymore. Now they use synthetic materials that will not rot.

From my research, most wet-core issues arise when the owner drills their own holes in the boat for whatever reasons (adding underwater lights, transducers, new water discharge locations, etc.) but don't do a good job of sealing off the balsa from potential moisture (a bead of caulk isn't going to cut it). But water can also creep in from port windows that have failed seals and even behind the rubrail where the upper hull meets the lower hull. Again, a good surveyor who is skilled with a hammer and the tap tap tap tests will help you find any wet spots. And there WILL be some. He or she will be able to advise you of the extent and seriousness of the damage.

Good luck!
 
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