Looking at buying a 1995 Sundancer 370 - advise please

[Rory Hinds]

I'm new to this forum and looking at purchasing a 1995 Sundancer 370 with twin Merc 7.4 with 800 hours on them.

I'm doing my sea trial tomorrow with my mechanic and wanted to reach out to the forum and get some advise on buying tips and what to look out for on a 370.

I'm in Vancouver, BC Canada and my previous boat was a Sundancer 250 so this is quite the upgrade

Thanks in advance.

 

[RubberDuckeeToo2]

You have to check out the 370 Sundance’s thread on this forum
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/official-370-sundancer-thread.13055/page-160#post-1126433
as well my web site www.370sundancer.com

 

[bahamabreisus]

Make sure you get a survey, not just your mechanic

 

[Quint4]

Here is one I have posted many times (most of it applies to a 370DA except the outdrive stuff):


USED BOAT CHECKLIST

1 - Drain the outdrive oil and check for water in the oil and excessive metal particulate (a pressure test is also in order)

2 – Props okay?


3 - Compression check the engine while warm. All cylinders should be above 100 and within 10% of each other


4 - Canvas in good shape? You will get serious sticker shock if it needs replaced.

5 - Maintenance records available?


6 - Freshwater boat ? this would be a good thing.

7 - Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly, now try to move each outdrive side to side...does it move more than a half inch or so? gimble ring possible worn out.


8 - Refrigerator work? I put a new one in last year...$850...no kidding.

9 - Is it in the water? does the bilge have water in it? if it does, you may have a leak.

10 - Check that all gauges work. My fuel gauge did not work. I changed the sending unit in the top of the fuel tank. It was very tough to get at....very tough.

11 - When was the last time the exhaust was serviced, as in manifolds and riser inspected and gaskets changed? this is the biggest killer of marine engines and is often neglected

12 - Is the transom solid ? remove a few screws from the trim tabs.....wet wood revealed? (of course reseal with 3m 5200 when you put them back). take lots of time at the transom...any sign of moisture penetration near through hulls... inside or out?

13 - Sea trial the boat with five or six adults on board.....should reach 4600-4800 rpm at wide open throttle.

14 - When were u joints / gimble bearing / all bellows last serviced or replaced?

15 - When was impeller last changed?

16 - Confirm A/C works...run it while checking generator (must be in water of course to run AC or generator)

17 - Trailer? what is your tow vehicle? you are looking at well over 12k lbs of boat and trailer....not your run of the mill bowrider....and a beam over 8' 6" means technically you need a permit to haul it.

18 - Check that both trim tabs work....you need them.

19 - Check that the outdrives trim up fully and back down.


20 - Toilet work?

21 - All freshwater spigots work? no leaks in freshwater system?....pump should turn off a few seconds after a faucet is shut off.

22- Look under EVERY cushion and hatch for standing water, if you find it investigate further.

23 - Anchor windlass?...does it work? they are not cheap to replace.


24 - Watch temp gauge during sea trial ....boat should not overheat at any time....also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge, My 454 stays between 40 - 60 psi.

.......................this is a good start for you...good luck with it.

 

[northern]

If risers and manifold are original they should be replaced

 

[Rory Hinds]

Thanks for the tips and great to connect. I'm rather excited about becoming a 370 owner as we go into summer. So much to explore around the area.

I'm doing the sea trial and mechanical today so will report back.
Have a survey booked for Monday and have really gone over the boat myself to do my own due diligence.

I've noted a wet line in the transom, see picture attached. Have other owners seen this and is it something to be concerned about?

 

[Rory Hinds]

Also noticed the riser and manifold gaskets will need to be replaced as there is some rust forming around the gaskets points.

 

[370Dancer]

Thanks for the tips and great to connect. I'm rather excited about becoming a 370 owner as we go into summer. So much to explore around the area.

I'm doing the sea trial and mechanical today so will report back.
Have a survey booked for Monday and have really gone over the boat myself to do my own due diligence.

I've noted a wet line in the transom, see picture attached. Have other owners seen this and is it something to be concerned about?

The line you have arrows pointing to is the hull deck joint. Water can get in that when coming off plane, and usually means the joint wasn't caulked completely, or the caulk has deteriorated over the years. Get a good sounding from your surveyor on the inside of the transom or use a moisture meter.
surface rust on the exhaust components means that there is high humidity in the engine room, likely from a misting leak from raw water pumps, or hose clamps. If you see any streaks down from the exhaust joints, you can bet the same streaks are happening on the inside of the riser extension, and elbow. To the extent you can, feel the underside of the engine and transmission. leaks always leak down. Gravity, and all that. The bilge looks like it has had its share of oil/grease.

 

[Rory Hinds]

Thanks for all the advise. I purchased the boat last week and have been going through things getting it ready for the summer. Can't wait.

Does anyone know how to get behind the steering wheel and dash? I'd like to install a hydraulic steering unit as this boat has wire steering currently. Also would like to put in an auto pilot but can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the helm controls.

 

[370Dancer]

Thanks for all the advise. I purchased the boat last week and have been going through things getting it ready for the summer. Can't wait.

Does anyone know how to get behind the steering wheel and dash? I'd like to install a hydraulic steering unit as this boat has wire steering currently. Also would like to put in an auto pilot but can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the helm controls.

Go into the engine room. Look at the rear for the rudder tie bar and then look for the hydraulic ram that is connected to it. I'd bet a million bucks you don't have cable steering on that boat, at least not by Sea Ray. Page 24. You're going to need this.
pull the electronics dash panels to gain access to the backside of the helm. There is no panel in the cabin bulkhead that gives you access.

 

[Third Edition]

Good luck with your new baby. We moved up to a 360 from a 350, and looked at the 370's too. Great boat. Have fun!

 

[Rory Hinds]

Loving my new to me 1995 Sundancer 370. I had the 250 Sundancer so this is quite the step up for me. So exciting.

Thanks so much for all the tips and advice.
I'll need to check the steering again as I'm sure the survey confirmed it has wire based steering so I'll need to install a hydraulic system then I can add the auto pilot.

 

[Rory Hinds]

Has anyone installed a Webasto / Espar heater and can give me some tips on how/where to route the tubing into the cabin.

 

[Rory Hinds]

Go into the engine room. Look at the rear for the rudder tie bar and then look for the hydraulic ram that is connected to it. I'd bet a million bucks you don't have cable steering on that boat, at least not by Sea Ray. Page 24. You're going to need this.
pull the electronics dash panels to gain access to the backside of the helm. There is no panel in the cabin bulkhead that gives you access.

Wow thanks so much for the manual link. That is a life saver having this file.

 

[370Dancer]

What is making me second guess this now is your picture in post 6. That triangle on the rudder tie rod should be connected to the ram. Looks like something is hanging from it.
Look around and see if the hydraulic hoses are still there, but with a mod like this, maybe the hydraulic hose split on the previous owner, and he just converted rather than replace. I do a lot of customization, but I don't think I would go from hydraulics to mechanical on a boat this big.

 

[RubberDuckeeToo2]

What is making me second guess this now is your picture in post 6. That triangle on the rudder tie rod should be connected to the ram. Looks like something is hanging from it.
Look around and see if the hydraulic hoses are still there, but with a mod like this, maybe the hydraulic hose split on the previous owner, and he just converted rather than replace. I do a lot of customization, but I don't think I would go from hydraulics to mechanical on a boat this big.

I totally agree with this assessment. I just looked at pictures of my engine room on the 370sundancer.com site and see that the hydraulic pisto is attached to that triangular plate on the tie rod. If the PO converted to manual steering, I’ll bet the hoses were removed or cut as well.

 

[Belenose20]

Here is one I have posted many times (most of it applies to a 370DA except the outdrive stuff):


USED BOAT CHECKLIST

1 - Drain the outdrive oil and check for water in the oil and excessive metal particulate (a pressure test is also in order)

2 – Props okay?


3 - Compression check the engine while warm. All cylinders should be above 100 and within 10% of each other


4 - Canvas in good shape? You will get serious sticker shock if it needs replaced.

5 - Maintenance records available?


6 - Freshwater boat ? this would be a good thing.

7 - Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly, now try to move each outdrive side to side...does it move more than a half inch or so? gimble ring possible worn out.


8 - Refrigerator work? I put a new one in last year...$850...no kidding.

9 - Is it in the water? does the bilge have water in it? if it does, you may have a leak.

10 - Check that all gauges work. My fuel gauge did not work. I changed the sending unit in the top of the fuel tank. It was very tough to get at....very tough.

11 - When was the last time the exhaust was serviced, as in manifolds and riser inspected and gaskets changed? this is the biggest killer of marine engines and is often neglected

12 - Is the transom solid ? remove a few screws from the trim tabs.....wet wood revealed? (of course reseal with 3m 5200 when you put them back). take lots of time at the transom...any sign of moisture penetration near through hulls... inside or out?

13 - Sea trial the boat with five or six adults on board.....should reach 4600-4800 rpm at wide open throttle.

14 - When were u joints / gimble bearing / all bellows last serviced or replaced?

15 - When was impeller last changed?

16 - Confirm A/C works...run it while checking generator (must be in water of course to run AC or generator)

17 - Trailer? what is your tow vehicle? you are looking at well over 12k lbs of boat and trailer....not your run of the mill bowrider....and a beam over 8' 6" means technically you need a permit to haul it.

18 - Check that both trim tabs work....you need them.

19 - Check that the outdrives trim up fully and back down.


20 - Toilet work?

21 - All freshwater spigots work? no leaks in freshwater system?....pump should turn off a few seconds after a faucet is shut off.

22- Look under EVERY cushion and hatch for standing water, if you find it investigate further.

23 - Anchor windlass?...does it work? they are not cheap to replace.


24 - Watch temp gauge during sea trial ....boat should not overheat at any time....also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge, My 454 stays between 40 - 60 psi.

.......................this is a good start for you...good luck with it.

 

[Belenose20]

Here is one I have posted many times (most of it applies to a 370DA except the outdrive stuff):


USED BOAT CHECKLIST

1 - Drain the outdrive oil and check for water in the oil and excessive metal particulate (a pressure test is also in order)

2 – Props okay?


3 - Compression check the engine while warm. All cylinders should be above 100 and within 10% of each other


4 - Canvas in good shape? You will get serious sticker shock if it needs replaced.

5 - Maintenance records available?


6 - Freshwater boat ? this would be a good thing.

7 - Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly, now try to move each outdrive side to side...does it move more than a half inch or so? gimble ring possible worn out.


8 - Refrigerator work? I put a new one in last year...$850...no kidding.

9 - Is it in the water? does the bilge have water in it? if it does, you may have a leak.

10 - Check that all gauges work. My fuel gauge did not work. I changed the sending unit in the top of the fuel tank. It was very tough to get at....very tough.

11 - When was the last time the exhaust was serviced, as in manifolds and riser inspected and gaskets changed? this is the biggest killer of marine engines and is often neglected

12 - Is the transom solid ? remove a few screws from the trim tabs.....wet wood revealed? (of course reseal with 3m 5200 when you put them back). take lots of time at the transom...any sign of moisture penetration near through hulls... inside or out?

13 - Sea trial the boat with five or six adults on board.....should reach 4600-4800 rpm at wide open throttle.

14 - When were u joints / gimble bearing / all bellows last serviced or replaced?

15 - When was impeller last changed?

16 - Confirm A/C works...run it while checking generator (must be in water of course to run AC or generator)

17 - Trailer? what is your tow vehicle? you are looking at well over 12k lbs of boat and trailer....not your run of the mill bowrider....and a beam over 8' 6" means technically you need a permit to haul it.

18 - Check that both trim tabs work....you need them.

19 - Check that the outdrives trim up fully and back down.


20 - Toilet work?

21 - All freshwater spigots work? no leaks in freshwater system?....pump should turn off a few seconds after a faucet is shut off.

22- Look under EVERY cushion and hatch for standing water, if you find it investigate further.

23 - Anchor windlass?...does it work? they are not cheap to replace.


24 - Watch temp gauge during sea trial ....boat should not overheat at any time....also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge, My 454 stays between 40 - 60 psi.

.......................this is a good start for you...good luck with it.

 

[Belenose20]

Thank you for the great checklist. How important are maintenance records? I’m looking at a 2002 380 Sundancer diesel. The current owner has had it for 3 years and no records. I will have an inspection/sea trial, but I know that only gives me so much info.

 

[sbw1]

My 1993 EC had rack and pinion steering. I believe the SDs did as well. Not sure what happened in 1995 with the steering design. It would be worth knowing when mechanical steering was discontinued. The most obvious thing I saw in the pictures is how dirty the bilge was and how high in the bilge the water levels reached. This is also a boat that was run in salt water judging from the blue bronze fittings. I would be very concerned about salt water damage to equipment in the boat based upon the generally poor housekeeping, and high water stains that are evident through out the engine room. Our 11 year old boat's engine room as clean as it was when it left the factory. Ideally you should be looking at boats that have had that level of maintenance.