Lifting dink on to the Bow using blocks

[JohnEGraham]

I Took the dingy out on the Swim platform yesterday which worked fine untill I returned and try to back in to my slip. Not good.:smt013 Almost wrecked it.
I need to lift the dingy on to the bow when returning to my slip. I will take the motor off at the rear and walk the dink to the front and use a couple of blocks with "D" Rings hooked to the oppisite Railing.
I fugure I could fip the dink over as I lift it up to the rail. Where I can lift in over.
I Can actually carry the Dingy ( 8 ft with wood roll up floor ) on flat ground but not on the Boat to bring to the front.
Anyone try this low tech lift?
Thanks. John G.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Hmmm. I'm not sure. The rails can take a pretty good downward stress, but I'm not sure about a stress being placed on them where it pulls them inwards.

Using the line that you are "walking the boat" forwards with, couldn't you just pull up on that (to get the boat standing on end) and then grab a hold of the bow and lift it/pivot it over the rail? Even if you pulled this line across the rail (that's between you and the boat) to help until the boat got a little higher. There wouldn't be near as much stress on that rail as there would be on the opposite side, since that would be completely horizontal.

I would be wary of trying to lift the boat from the water, using the opposite rail as an anchor point.

But, I've never attempted what you're asking. I have used rails many, many times as an "anchor roller" with no ill effects. But, there too, my pull point is probably about 45* above the rail - not as much stress as it would be if the pull point was even with the rail height.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Oh, just thought of something else. There is no way this would work.

The pivot point is the close rail. The pull point is the far rail. In order to lift the boat over the rail, the pull point must be higher than the pivot point.

I think "you" need to be the pull point. :smt089

Is the dinghy going to stay on your bow, or do you have a dinghy house? Maybe just tie the dinghy short to one of your bow cleats until you get into the slip?

 

[JohnEGraham]

I would love to "Maybe just tie the dinghy short to one of your bow cleats until you get into the slip?" but I am a newbe at the backing the boat into the slip with only a few inchs on each side of my slip and a single Sterndrive screw. So I typically need a few trys if the wind is blowing. John G

 

[JohnEGraham]

Mayby a double block tied to the bow cleat up over the oppisite Rail to take some of the Lateral pressure off the Rail? Than use 2 "D" rings to separate the lines at the other Railing.
I only need to get the Dingy up to the top of the Rail. I will be able to drag it over ( not lift it ) I understand Due to heights being the same I will not be able to pull it all the way.
I have driven with the dingy up front on the Bow with no problems other than not be able to use the front hatch. I had to attach a few rubber bumpers ( Chair protectors ) to stop the rear / top metal where the motor clamps too of the dingy from scrathing the Bow.
JG.

 

[Sea Gull]

When we had our 370 I tried a couple of times to stow the inflated dinghy on the bow. The biggest problem was not getting the boat on the deck, the biggest problem was that once it was there it blocked the view forward and clear access to bow cleats and windlass.

Our method for getting the dinghy on the foredeck was to empty it of all contents and engine. Holding the painter I would pull the bow of the boat up to the rail so that the dink was "standing" on its transom with the after ends of the tubes keeping it afloat. When it was almost vertical we would flip it so that the dinghy bottom was pointing away from the boat's rail. Remember, at this point you are only lifting and holding a portion of the dinghy's weight. A little 1 foot or so lift would bring the dinghy up to the rail where it could be balanced. Then it was just a matter of wiggling it around, one "corner" at a time until it was in position.

Using this method the strain on the crew was minimized and we found that no mechanical advantage was needed.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The double block would only serve to make it easier for you. However, using the cleat as an anchor point will take some of the stress off the rail. I can't answer as to whether or not it would be OK.

I still think you're making more work for yourself. Try this:

With the dinghy along side your bow, tie a line from the stern of the dinghy straight up to the bow rail. This will keep the dinghy from sliding backwards as you lift the dinghy's bow. This will also create a "pivot" point for the dinghy. Now, you'll be able to stand back from the edge of your boat and it should be pretty easy to lift it up.

You might want to experiment with leaving the dinghy's stern line slack or tight. If you tie that stern right in just the right way, you might even be able to get the dinghy to turn perpendicular to your boat. Then the stern of the dinghy will wedge itself into your boat - again giving a pivot point.

I'm all for using blocks and mechanical advantages whenever possible. But, I think in this case it's just going to complicate things.

 

[wetpaint]

why not lower the dink from the stern like you normally do, walk it to the bow, tie to bow cleat and back in..........or, lower dink, have someone drive to dinghy dock and back in without any dinghy......What I will do is find a empty mooring, tie off, lower dinghy and have my son hang out until I am in the slip...

 

[JohnEGraham]

Ok, Thanks all. I think I got it. I will try both ways. I like the Stern line trick since I already have a line on the stern to keep the dink close when removing the engine.
John G