Leaking Holding Tank....Need Help

Endsmtg

Endsmtg

Member
Mar 4, 2008
106
Great Lakes
Boat Info
360 Sundancer - SOLD
Engines
8.1 Mercury Horizons
Ok, where do I start. I NEVER have a bilge alarm go off, but sure enough I got on plane and beeeeeeep. After the intial panic, I opened the hatch to the distinctive smell of Urine! Sure enough, there was the four bottles of corona sitting on the port side bilge. Upon returning to port, I promptly rinsed out hoping that it was a hose that cracked or fitting loose. Upon inspection, I could not find either. What I do see is a trail that runs from the rear of the tank down to the bilge. I fear that this tank is CRACKED! I have read other post here about removing and even welding.

My question is.....since I'm on the Great Lakes and we only boat here May-Sept, if I remove all of the plumbing, is there something I could pour into the tank to seal? It would have all off-season to cure. Or, is replacing the only other option? My tank appears to be a bottom platform mated to the tank itself, as I can see its NOT one molded piece. The contents leak out no matter how little there is, and it normally takes 10-12 hours to leak out.

Please help.:smt100 Thank you in advance for your replies/suggestions!:thumbsup:
 
My experience.....is that it is better to remove it and replace it. Depending on the exact dimensions of your ER, you may have to remove an exhaust riser to get it out; I did. Sealand, and others I spoke to, indicate this almost never happens....but it does. These tanks are rotationally molded, and are usually thick enough to not have leakage problems. The only thing I can think of that might cause it is freezing weather. ***Note to all Northern boaters...be sure and get pumped out before you winterize.***
 
:smt009
Southpaw II said:
My experience.....is that it is better to remove it and replace it. Depending on the exact dimensions of your ER, you may have to remove an exhaust riser to get it out; I did. Sealand, and others I spoke to, indicate this almost never happens....but it does. These tanks are rotationally molded, and are usually thick enough to not have leakage problems. The only thing I can think of that might cause it is freezing weather. ***Note to all Northern boaters...be sure and get pumped out before you winterize.***
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply. Understood. I have kept the boat in indoor heated storage since purchase. She's been in the water since May with no problems until this week. I have pumped her out several times. I was hoping that your advice was not going to be reality, but it is setting in! The riser would have to be removed, as I see no other option. I was told that the tank could be collapsed to remove, but what does that do when another has to go in? I guess I'm hoping that someone has a product suggestion to pour into the tank in the off season. I was thinking of silicon or some other sealant.
 
I had the same problem, I thought my tank was cracked, but when I pulled the tank up, there was no crack, the pee was running through the threads of the PVC pipe. I unscrewed the pipe, put teflon tape on it, screwed it all back together and it has been fine ever since. I did give the tank out I gave it a good cleaning. I have not had any problems ever since. The entire job took me about 3 hours. It was a stinky job though! lol. good luck.
 
The only other possibility I know of is that the tank could have been damaged during pump out. A friend had a clogged vent, and when the pump out procedure started, his tank almost imploded. Still, the sides are concave. He was lucky. The vent was clogged with a dirt wasp nest.
 
Thank you for your replies. Went out there again yesterday and there was about a pint in the bilge. I know I pumped it dry, as the indicator says empty, and I can see the tank physically empty. So this seepage is coming from underneath the tank. A friend of mine suggest that I put food coloring in it to see exactly where it's leaking. We will try that Friday.
 
Take it to the fuel dock and pump out/rinse/repeat 3 or 4 times. Do not flush the head. Fill tank through pump out deck fitting 3/4 tank full andd your food coloring. Let sit a few hours (or overnight - preferred). Check for leaks. If leaks are detected its the tank. If no leaks detected try step 2: Go pump out/ rinse/ repeat 3 or 4 times. Now take a different color food coloring and pour into a bucket and dump into the head (repeat till head is half full) you can use your shower wand. If leak is detected in second food color its the plumbing (pipes or attachement points) that are leaking. - Jeff (PS when done, come to T30 for a beer - you'll need one!! - good luck).
 
Dave
Agree with Jeff.
I will be down on Friday afternoon.
Give me a call when you get down there.
The cold beer is in the fridge and the keys under the steps!!!

I still think it is possibly the white hose on the top of the tank.
And a fitting is loose somewhere.
Funny though that after it has sat you see the leakage.

Jeff, If Dave doesn't make it down to T-30...
Can I take his place?

Dan
 
Thanks Fellas! Jeff that was a great idea about the 5200. Dan and I are going to do the food coloring possibly today, if he has time. Will definetly take you up on that beer when all of this is done. Besides, I will need a place to put it later!:grin:
 
Ok. Here's what I found out. I pulled the plumbing and level indicators out. I then took JPK33's advice and poured food coloring into the tank. Waited a couple of minutes and could see exactly where it was coming out. In the corners of my tank there are indentions where I assume pedestals underneat seat the tank. The inboard indention had a half moon crack around the top, as if it was popped off from vibration. Since the tank is plastic, I figured I would try and melt the remaining plastic to cover the crack. I then used a putty material called "Water Weld" to cover the spot. I did this all on Friday, and used the system both saturday and sunday, with NO LEAKS as of this time.

I believe that the flooring under the tank may be compromised, as the screw I removed will not tighten completely when replaced. It just turns in the pre-drilled hole. I am going to fill the hole and attempt to secure the tank this week.

Thanks to all for their suggestions and feedback!:thumbsup:
 
Dave
How hard is it to remove the tank from it's bilge cave? Just thinking it may be a good winter project to replace the whole thing since odds are the repair will eventually fail. It's much hotter and stinkier in the summer months, and who wants to be fussing with human waste when there's boating to be done!
 
I agree with Ron. These tanks are made of polyethylene. To the best of my knowledge, nothing will provide a permanent repair to PE since it is so slippery - at least not without first flame-treating it.

I'm glad you got the leaked fixed, for now. I had to replace my tank because of a crack so I can share in your endeavors... unfortunately:lol: If I was you, I would order a tank and have it ready to be installed.
 
I agree with all of those that say replace the tank.

Although not typically the case, these tanks can find themselves under pressure. I once entered the engine room for routine maintenance and was perplexed why the wood board that normally is affixed across the top of the tank to secure it place was lying on the bilge, splintered. Also, things just didn't look quite right. Then the image crystallized! The holding tank was dramatically swollen as if it were ready to blow at any second. I never exited an engine room so fast.

The vent filter had become blocked and gases were building up in the full to capacity tank. Pumped out without incident and replaced the filter; this time with one made by BetterBoat Products for a lot less money than the commercial brand. [full disclosure: I make and sell them]

So I would not advise having a holding tank that is compromised in any way.
 
Thanks to all that replied.:thumbsup: Yes I do plan on replacing the tank in the off season. The goal right now was to stop the leak. In order to take the tank out, the exhaust riser will need to be removed. It doesnt look real complicated, but I'd rather have the boat on dry dock.

Jack, can you PM me a price on a replacement tank? It's 28 gallons. Thanks in advance.
 
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