Kohler 5ECD Generator... anti corrosion anode

[dsteele1]

I got the spares kit for the genny a while back but I can't seem to find the location of the anode on the heat exchanger. Where exactly is it? :huh: :smt100 :smt101

 

[Vince_nj1]

I should be able to answer this because I asked the mechanic working on my generator where the anode was last Friday. He took out a lazer pointer and circled something on the top middle of the generator and said "its behind that". He told me it looks like a pencil. I should have climbed down in the bilge to see it, but I didnt. I was in my work/dress clothes and didnt want to get dirty.

I know this is a lame answer, but it I didnt see anyone else jumping in with advice, so I figured I would at least pass on what little knowledge I have. Here is a pic of mine if someone wants to describe where it is

If you dont get an answer, call Kohler customer service. Good luck.

 

[Scupper Guppy]

See where the blue & white sticker is on the heat exchanger that says ' Notice'? It's underneath there. Have fun!

 

[dsteele1]

See where the blue & white sticker is on the heat exchanger that says ' Notice'? It's underneath there. Have fun!

You've got to be kidding... the moron that thought this location up should be shot! :smt021 :smt021 :smt021

 

[dsteele1]

I should be able to answer this because I asked the mechanic working on my generator where the anode was last Friday. He took out a lazer pointer and circled something on the top middle of the generator and said "its behind that". He told me it looks like a pencil. I should have climbed down in the bilge to see it, but I didnt. I was in my work/dress clothes and didnt want to get dirty.

I know this is a lame answer, but it I didnt see anyone else jumping in with advice, so I figured I would at least pass on what little knowledge I have. Here is a pic of mine if someone wants to describe where it is

If you dont get an answer, call Kohler customer service. Good luck.

Thanks for the great pic!

 

[JV II]

I finally got around to replacing my Kohler 5E anode. My generator has 135 hours and this is the third season of use.
There is no easy way to do this. You can't simply get a wrench in under the heat exchanger. The whole thing has to come off. Here is the procedure:
1. remove the two sheet metal screws on the top cover of the electronic case. These will prevent you from removing the heat exchanger
2. unclamp the intake and output hoses
3. remove the output hose
4. loosen the intake hose
5. remove the two wires to the temperature sensor
6. remove the four bolts holding the heat exchanger to the block. Don't drop them because you will spend a lot of time trying to find them.
7. remove the heat exchanger lifting up the output end first and lifting off of the input hose while twisting away from the block so the thermostat comes out. Be careful not to lose the two o-rings.
8. unbolt the old anode
9. ream out the residual anode with a screw driver and flush the unit with a hose. The old anode will break off of the bolt as you remove it.
10. Install the new anode
11. Reinstall is the reverse. Make sure the thermostat and o-rings are seated perfectly or you will have a leak and repeat the procedure.
12. Refill with Dex-Cool
13. Clean the bilge of the old Dex-Cool

Sorry, I don't have torque specifications or photographs. The picture earlier in this string is a good one. I used about the same force as it took to remove the bolts to reinstall them. The old anode was mush.

Restarted and no leaks on the heat exchanger.

Total time - 90 minutes

Now, I have to fix the leak on my impeller pump. Removed the plate and impeller I installed last year. All vanes intact and pliable. No tears. Reinstalled the impeller, added soap. Reinstalled the plate over the seated o-ring. Torqued down the 4 bolts in a cross pattern - TWICE. Replaced the o-ring. Still dripping from the bottom. Warped cover plate? This should be the easy one!

 

[jason78]

Luckily on the 5E, the heat exchanger does not have to be removed to access the anode as it is located right at the accessable end of the cylinder.

For you guys that have changed it in the 5ECD, I have a couple questions that will I am sure be of help to all-

First, The instructions say depending on the model, you may need to cut some length off the anode they provide you to get it to fit. Did you have to do this for the 5ECD?

Second, The instructions say to use a "Marine Grade Sealant" on the threads. Did you use anything? Loc-Tite, or something like it?

Third, when you removed the anode, how bad was it? And are you in Fresh or Salt water?

I bought the anode kit for my genny and everyone at the local repair shop acted they didn't even know it had an anode.

Thanks

 

[JV II]

First, The instructions say depending on the model, you may need to cut some length off the anode they provide you to get it to fit. Did you have to do this for the 5ECD?

I ordered mine from: http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/260085-anode-zinc-kohler-p-775.html
It fit without needing to cut any length off.

Second, The instructions say to use a "Marine Grade Sealant" on the threads. Did you use anything? Loc-Tite, or something like it?

As shown in the picture, it came with what looks like teflon tape already on the threads.

Third, when you removed the anode, how bad was it? And are you in Fresh or Salt water?

In salt water. The bolt of the anode twisted right off of the anode as it was swollen and stuck. I was readily able to mush it up with a screw driver and flush it out with a garden hose.

 

[tbirdvet]

I agree with what has already been said in that the engineer that designed an item like this that requires periodic changing was stupid. It should not be this hard to change!

 

[tbirdvet]

OK. I just replaced the anode on my 5EC gen. and here is the trick:
1. Buy some 5/8" heater hose from your local auto parts store (you will see why in a moment)
2. Get a 9/16" box wrench (ratchet type) or use a 9/16" socket on a ratchet handle but box wrench is better since it requires less room
3. Remove the 5/8" ID hose that is about 5 inches long extending straight down from the heat exchanger to the lower fitting (it is about 5" long). I suggest slitting the hose with a blade so you won't damage the fittings. This will be replaced with a piece of hose you bought at the auto parts store
4. Using the wrench you now have enough room to reach the anode and ratchet it off.
5. Install new anode using some teflon thread tape
6. Install a piece of new hose and secure with clamps.

By the way after two seasons but with only 15 hrs. on the gen. my anode was still in very good shape in fresh water use. I installed a new one anyway (new anode length was correct and did not require shortening).

 

[CAMELLA]

OK. I just replaced the anode on my 5EC gen. and here is the trick:
1. Buy some 5/8" heater hose from your local auto parts store (you will see why in a moment)
2. Get a 9/16" box wrench (ratchet type) or use a 9/16" socket on a ratchet handle but box wrench is better since it requires less room
3. Remove the 5/8" ID hose that is about 5 inches long extending straight down from the heat exchanger to the lower fitting (it is about 5" long). I suggest slitting the hose with a blade so you won't damage the fittings. This will be replaced with a piece of hose you bought at the auto parts store
4. Using the wrench you now have enough room to reach the anode and ratchet it off.
5. Install new anode using some teflon thread tape
6. Install a piece of new hose and secure with clamps.

By the way after two seasons but with only 15 hrs. on the gen. my anode was still in very good shape in fresh water use. I installed a new one anyway (new anode length was correct and did not require shortening).

You are not suppose to use Teflon thread tape on anodes!

 

[tbirdvet]

You are not suppose to use Teflon thread tape on anodes!

The teflon tape is already on the new anode as purchased directly from Kohler

 

[testlab]

The amount of Teflon tape is quite small and thin. It will cut through in enough places and bunch in the threads to seal and make an decent electrical connection. Changing the anode early and on a schedule instead of on condition prevents the swollen corroded remains getting stuck in the hole and makes for easier changes.

I have a Kohler CZ23 and the location of serviceable items is well thought out, all being on the front of the unit (except the raw water impeller).

 

[Chris R]

I've replaced my anode 4 times and never had to replace the hose. You will need to take the sensor out though (mark the two wires, disconnect and unscrew it). This will allow you to get a ratchet wrench in there enough to get it out. Don't have one? it's worth the money to have a set of these onboard. It's a bit slow and tedious, but easier than replacing the hose.

 

[tbirdvet]

I've replaced my anode 4 times and never had to replace the hose. You will need to take the sensor out though (mark the two wires, disconnect and unscrew it). This will allow you to get a ratchet wrench in there enough to get it out. Don't have one? it's worth the money to have a set of these onboard. It's a bit slow and tedious, but easier than replacing the hose.

Thanks for the tip. I saw the sensor but thought removing would not provide enough room but I guess i was wrong. I will try your method next time.