Kohler 5E Oil Change

jason78

jason78

Active Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Sep 3, 2008
3,662
Fort Mill, SC / Lake Wylie
Boat Info
1997 20 Outrage
Engines
200 Merc Offshore
It has come time to change the Oil in my Kohler 5E. Can anyone tell me the amount of Oil I need to refill? Based on searches, I have determined that I need to use SAE-30W standard oil. Also, I have been led to believe there is a compatible Oil Filter available at NAPA. Would someone possibly have this NAPA part number?

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the manual link. Any ideas out there on the NAPA part number for the Oil filter? Also, they don't give procedures in the Service Manual. Is it pretty much- Attach Oil Changer tube to valve, take off oil cap, suck out oil, change filter and refill? Seems pretty cut and dry just don't want to make an expensive mistake.

Thanks!
 
burwellj78 said:
Thanks for the manual link. Any ideas out there on the NAPA part number for the Oil filter? Also, they don't give procedures in the Service Manual. Is it pretty much- Attach Oil Changer tube to valve, take off oil cap, suck out oil, change filter and refill? Seems pretty cut and dry just don't want to make an expensive mistake.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

That's all there is to it. I sucked mine out of the oil filler tube using my Jabsco changer; nothing came out of the drain valve after I opened it once the Jabsco was done. A diaper under the filter, a baggy for it as you unscrew it and that's it.

The manual says for our temps (GA/SC) you can use 30 wt - and they specifiy the automotive API coded oils. I had two qts of Mercruiser full synthetic 25-40 left over from my main engine changes, and I used that. 5 gallons does everything for me with a half qt left over...

Don't forget the fuel filter, water sep filter and zinc anode - along with the impeller (a five minute change).
 
If you don't have one, I'd get a Kohler sea spares kit, which comes in a waterproof box with the impeller kit, the spark plugs, filters, and zinc anode for your generator. I always carry a full kit with me and an extra impeller.
 
I wanted to bring this thread back as I am now reconsidering the type of oil I was going to use in my generator. The dealer uses the Merc 25W-40 that goes in the mains so that is what has always been used.

Many have suggested the use of RotellaT SAE30 for the Generator. I have found that the “Original” RotellaT that carried the API SJ Certification for Gasoline Engines has recently been replaced with RotellaT1 which now only carries the CF-4 Certification for Diesel Engines. I called the Shell Support to confirm this. Then NAPA told me RotellaT1 is designed for Diesel Engines but it should work in a gasoline engine, not exactly what I wanted to hear.

It has been very hard to find an SAE30 or 10W-30 oil that carries the SJ Certification. I have found an oil that carries it and it is regular Kohler Brand 10W-30 and SAE30. Does anyone see a problem using the Kohler 10W-30? I know there are some oil experts here so I thought I would throw that out. Not trying to beat a dead horse on this oil thing but I want to find something I can stick with that is within the specs. According to the Lube Chart I posted, 10W30 covers my climate range and even goes colder than average.

Thanks! Jason
 

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Jason,
I just changed mine out in the 5E. I used Valvoline 30W, it was SM certified. Its just a newer certification when compared to SJ. I would not use a mutli-viscocity oil, especially since your in a warmer climate than I am. Stick with a straight 30W.
 
firecadet613 said:
Jason,
I just changed mine out in the 5E. I used Valvoline 30W, it was SM certified. Its just a newer certification when compared to SJ. I would not use a mutli-viscocity oil, especially since your in a warmer climate than I am. Stick with a straight 30W.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I may try to find the SAE30. I will probably try and find the Kohler first. The Kohler dealer here recommends the Kohler oil but not sure if there is a good reason for it.
 
Any auto parts store will sell the Valvoline straight 30W. Heck, I got mine at Walmart.
 
Thanks for the help, I was able to source the Kohler Branded SAE30 today for about $4 a quart. Supposedly is it specially formulated for "gas engines that run for long periods and under heavy load". :huh: May be marketing jazz but I am ready to go.

As for changing it, I have gathered you-

Connect Changer Hose to Drain Valve and Suck Out Oil
Remove Oil Filter
Wipe Everything Down
Install New Filter
Add 1.44 quarts of oil in Oil Fill
Run Genny

Right?

Jason
 
jason78 said:
Thanks for the help, I was able to source the Kohler Branded SAE30 today for about $4 a quart. Supposedly is it specially formulated for "gas engines that run for long periods and under heavy load". :huh: May be marketing jazz but I am ready to go.

As for changing it, I have gathered you-

Connect Changer Hose to Drain Valve and Suck Out Oil
Remove Oil Filter
Wipe Everything Down
Install New Filter
Add 1.44 quarts of oil in Oil Fill
Run Genny

Right?

Jason
Click to expand...

Make sure filter gasket came off with the filter and check for leaks after running. As a FYI - make sure you have the right size filter wrench. I thought it was the same size as my Kohler Motor on my ZTR mower - but it wasn't.
 
Also wanted to mention, initially I will be using a NAPA Gold 1394 Oil Filter. I will then switch to the Kohler Oil Filter shortly after the first oil change.

I am only changing the oil twice since the dealer was perviously using Merc 25W-40 and I am switching to SAE30 so I figure it would be a good idea to do a double change.
 
skolbe said:
Make sure filter gasket came off with the filter and check for leaks after running. As a FYI - make sure you have the right size filter wrench. I thought it was the same size as my Kohler Motor on my ZTR mower - but it wasn't.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I didn't even think about that. Maybe NAPA has one that small?
 
You've got it right.

Last year I hooked up a hose to the drain valve and opened it up. This year I stuck my fluid extractor hose down the opening after I removed the dipstick, and sucked it all out. Went a lot quicker. When I opened up the drain valve, nothing came out. Be sure to have some paper towels to catch the oil that drips from the filter.
 
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