Kohler 5E generator pushrods not under rocker arms

[MichaelRaasch]

I just bought this 2004 Sea Ray 260 and the generator wouldn't start so I pulled the spark plugs and did a compression test. One cylinder had 0 compression and the other had 210 psi. The spark plug with zero compression looked like it had water on it and the spark was sparking to the side. Anyway I looked in the oil filler cap of the cylinder that had 210 psi and noticed that the push rod was not under the rocker arm. I have not taken off the valve covers yet but I am assuming that all of them are not under the rockers. So my question is...how could this have happened. The generator only has 150 hours on it. Its a Kohler 5E and has the Kawasaki FD501D V-Twin. I'm hoping that I can just replace the pushrods with the gen in place. Looking for anyone with experience with this motor.

 

[Quint4]

I had this happen to my Kohler 7.3 this summer. I suspect a stuck valve caused this situation. I was able to put the push rods back under the rocker arms. After some head scratching I decided to see if the thing would start and run. It started and ran great. I changed the oil an ran it for another 30 hours.
It developed a "no start" condition and I discovered I have no spark from the coils. I am starting to not like my Kohler generator very much. I will begin the fun task of troubleshooting it again this Spring. Good luck I am interested in what others have to say.

Here is my post about the same problem:
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/53079-Kohler-7-3KW-strange-problem-discovered-pics

 

[KP49]

If the pushrod isnt bent the only thing that can cause that is a valve sticking open (or lash adjuster loosening up, broken rocker etc), with the cam on the base circle and the valve open even .100 the pushrod can just drop out since there is no guide. The valve springs are pretty weak on them and it doesnt take much crud on the valve stem to keep the valve open. Not much you can do except stick it back on, spin it over with no fuel spark and see if every thing moves normally. Valve float can cause it too if the governer fails.

 

[MichaelRaasch]

Thanks for the feedback. I discussed with a mechanic friend of mine and he said could also happen from over revving. I wonder if someone started it and it went wide open before warming up. I would suspect the valve clearance would be the greatest when its cold and if was wide open from the start then its possible the pushrod could fall out. But as you've stated a stuck valve could be it also. I have not had a chance to work on it again. Probably not for another week will I get a chance. I'm dissapointed that this could even happen with such low hours. I have had two RV's with Onan generators and they have been rock solid. Anyway when I get the chance I will put the rods back in. Anyone know what the valve clearance should be on this gen? Thanks. Otherwise I'm happy with this sea ray. Its my first sea ray and seems well built.

 

[KP49]

Thanks for the feedback. I discussed with a mechanic friend of mine and he said could also happen from over revving. I wonder if someone started it and it went wide open before warming up. I would suspect the valve clearance would be the greatest when its cold and if was wide open from the start then its possible the pushrod could fall out. But as you've stated a stuck valve could be it also. I have not had a chance to work on it again. Probably not for another week will I get a chance. I'm dissapointed that this could even happen with such low hours. I have had two RV's with Onan generators and they have been rock solid. Anyway when I get the chance I will put the rods back in. Anyone know what the valve clearance should be on this gen? Thanks. Otherwise I'm happy with this sea ray. Its my first sea ray and seems well built.

From what I found its .010 cold, I dont have the manual but thats what I found on the web for the FD501D. Quint in his post said .004-.006, he may have the manual so best to check around. When I had mine apart (low compression on one cylinder) one intake valve was way too tight and not closing all the way. I set the lash at .010 and its been fine since so I have no idea what happened with mine, it only had 100 hours on it. While I had the covers off I pushed down on the springs to make sure nothing was stuck or broken and I was surprised how little valve spring pressure it had.

The governer would have to fail for an overrev, its possible, if you bought it used you never know what the previous owner or mechanic did to it.

One of my plugs would also get water on them when it shut down, when I had it all apart I couldnt really see why, my guess is some is getting in due to reversion on shut down. They say if you keep cranking it without starting some water can get pulled in so I assume since it spins over a few times when you kill the ignition a little is getting pulled back in. Mine runs fine and the compression is OK, I just made sure to get some oil in the cylinders (ran it on the 2 stroke oil mix when I winterized it), in case some water gets pulled in there when I shut it down for the winter.

I have had a few Onan generators in my race car trailers and motorhomes, this Kohler aint no Onan. I have the 5ECD than adds the extra fun of fuel injection, a lot of electronics and a catalytic converter

 

[Quint4]

The manual states the following for valve clearance:

0.004-0.006
( 0.10-0.14 mm)

I checked mine and it was in spec.

 

[KP49]

The manual states the following for valve clearance:

0.004-0.006 mm
(cold 0.10-0.14)

I checked mine and it was in spec.

You mean .004-.006 inch

.10 -.14mm

I did mine at .010 inch which is what I found, if yours is from the manual thats good to know. I assume the 5 and 7.3 are the same.

 

[MichaelRaasch]

Thanks for the info.

I did find a kawasaki Engine Specification Chart on the internet for a whole bunch of models and it shows the below for the FD501D:
.15mm
.0059 inch

I found a service manual on the net while I was writing this and it showed the same .15mm and .006 inch for a FD501V which is pretty much the same.

 

[KP49]

Thanks for the info.

I did find a kawasaki Engine Specification Chart on the internet for a whole bunch of models and it shows the below for the FD501D:
.15mm
.0059 inch

I found a service manual on the net while I was writing this and it showed the same .15mm and .006 inch for a FD501V which is pretty much the same.

I did mine on a 95 degree day and I was searching on an iphone so I went with the first numbers I found. Since three out of four on mine were close to .010 when I checked them thats where I put the bad one. I'll go in there and readjust in the spring, probably doesnt make any real world difference but it will bother me knowing its off..

 

[MichaelRaasch]

After pulling the valve cover off on the head that's easiest to get to I noticed the exhaust push rod was bent...upon further review I tried to push the exhaust valve down and it was stuck. I was not able to push it down at all. I noticed some corrosion around the valve stem. So not good. I have not looked at the other head yet. I'm thinking I may have to buy new heads, head gaskets, valves, valve springs, push rods. I'm hoping that the pistons and cylinders are ok. I found web site on internet with parts diagram also. Those parts will set me back at least $500.

 

[firecadet613]

A friend is having issues with his valve lash not being set, its the second time now his genset has been out of his boat.