Is my engine falling apart ?

[businessjett]

I just had a heating issue fixed. Now I have a fuel pump issue. Have also been told a need a new transom assembly and soon new risers and manifolds. Wowza.

When I look at my engine. It has lots of rust as well. Like maybe its about to total fail. Can any one give me some guidance based on the photos I just took ?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/073cEFPm98DuflfI07xCp3Ypg
https://share.icloud.com/photos/06e53mpD5nXwRXFsUYDChDOcg

 

[Golfman25]

No way to tell from photos. But you have a 19 year old engine. How many hours? What was previous maintenance like? These things need to be taken care of. New risers is a maintenance item in saltwater — every 5 years or so.

 

[BillK2632]

Yeah, +1 you have a 19yr old boat that looks like it's been in salt water and maybe you or a previous owner has not stayed on top of the maintenance (don't take this the wrong way). Salt water is rough on a boat and it takes some TLC and religious maintenance to keep it in good condition. Based on your other posts, here is a rundown of what I think. But to answer your question, I don't think your engine is falling apart, it just needs some maintenance - think about a 20yr old car, things wear out / break, now park that car next to the ocean and only use it every few weeks - that's the environment your boat lives it. Keeping the salt off of it and out of the bilge is key.

First things first: If you don't know when it was last done, you might want to do a general tuneup, plugs, distributor cap, rotor maybe even plug wires if they are original. And also have a compression test done. Just to set a baseline.

Your fuel issue: You said runs fine upto 5knots. You have a fuel supply / restriction issue, that could be something simple like a clogged fuel filter or the fuel line/pickup or anti-siphon valve. Worst case the cool fuel module or fuel pump itself. Those older cool fuel modules had issues with paint peeling on the inside and clogging up the fuel system. Putting a gauge on it to verify low fuel pressure is the first thing, then you need to find a mechanic that will diagnose this, not just replace parts. This is a well know issue and should be easily resolved, Mercruiser has a technical bulletin on it and at one point was supplying parts (not labor) to fix.

Your leaking steering pin: I replied in your other post, the fix is the JR Marine kit or to replace the entire transom assembly. A Mercruiser dealer is going to recommend replacing the transom assembly, but unless you have other corrosion type issues, the JR kit is the better option -- well definitely cheaper and many people have had good success with them. The leaking steering pin is another well known issue on a BIII - happens on almost all of them that stay in the water. I bet your steeing is sloppy, another issue caused by this.

Risers / Manifolds: On a saltwater boat, as others have mentioned, these become maintenance items that need to be replaced every 5-8yrs or so - the salt water just corrodes them from the inside. If you ignore they will eventually let water flow back into your engine from the exhaust and that causes major damage. From the outside they will look like new, so only way to inspect is to remove the riser.

 

[scoflaw]

Use an aerosol corrosion inhibitor frequently on the rusty parts. If and when they need to be removed strip the rust off and paint them. Rust on the pullies will shorten belt life considerably.

 

[Pirate Lady]

It’s not falling apart, it’s normal (well not the transom assembly, I have never had to replace that on any boat).
In 2021 I replaced risers, manifolds, thermostat, thermostat housing ( dam piece of cast iron was $400). And overheating due to Bravoitis I replaced everything on outdrive, gimbal, hoses, cables, the whole she bang. Expensive summer.
Now during winter storage she is getting a new prop seal (leaking). By spring I will have basically rebuilt the outdrive and replaced everything in the cooling system.
My engine is 30yo, strong as an ox. No regrets, it’s maintenance.
But I know dam well, something else will break by July. Old saying “Something is always broke, you just don’t know it yet.”

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

components fail

oftentimes at the most inconvenient moment

if one establishes a baseline, they won't fail due to lack of maintenance

a viglant owner will incur far less unplanned failures

This has worked for me in my 30 years of boating.

RWS

 

[Skybolt]

I can't even begin to discuss the amount of work I put in on preventative maintenance. Inspecting, cleaning, painting and replacing hose clamps, hoses etc. Taking things apart just to replace gaskets. All these tings to hopefully avoid an untimely breakdown. Most of the time this works, but there is always that one time where it doesn't. It happens to all of us.

You need to start figuring the mechanics out a bit and start cleaning, painting and replacing what needs to be.

I will say this, there are times when you ask yourself if this is worth all of the work, then you have that one perfect day out on the water and then another and your reminded why you could never give this up. But that's just me. I hope it's that way for other s as well.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Don't know if anyone here has ever read ZEN AND THE ART OF MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE

Never was a biker, but have owned and ridden a lot

That book can easily translate into this boating thing.

It's far more than just running or being out on the boat.

Some "get it" but many do not.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

If your engine is a 2004 it may not have the problematic cool-fuel unit. My boat is a 2004 and the cool-fuel units are the simpler copper tube type cooler on the port side low on the engine. A tell tale sign of this the presence of a spin on fuel separator/filter mounted on the stb side of the engine. The newer cool-fuel units I believe have a filter built into the unit itself and does NOT have a separate filter usually. The newer ones have a history of paint flake issues clogging up the system including injectors.

As far as the transom assembly, I think the main reason why these are replaced is either damage to the cast aluminum or to replace the steering pin. I used the JR Marine kit to replace both of my steering pins which worked out fine. If you're inclined to do your own work that kit is a great option not involving the engine removal. If not, your mechanic would probably prefer to just remove the engine, then the transom assembly and replace with a new one since removal of the old one would probably end up damaging it in the process. Costly! I did make a detailed post on my experience if you wish to search it.

Have fun!!

 

[Brite Idea]

I agree with establishing a baseline for maintenance. You have an older boat and the engine, transom assembly and drive are showing their age but also suffering from a lack of maintenance. I would find another mechanic if possible? The current mechanic doesn't feel your pain and is going the easiest route for him. That fuel pump/cooler is easy to replace but you might have to be young and a little flexible to get to it. The other one you can see in the picture. I'm not sure what's wrong with your transom assembly but adding a thru hull water pickup and eliminate the pick up thru the drive. If you have a leaking steering pin it can be repaired from outside but most mechanics today just replace the transom assembly. You also have a parts availability issue these days, if you want to buy some of these items you may have to wait a few months to get them. You're getting a crash course in stern drives but you're not alone we've all been there. I'm currently the proud owner of my last stern drive boat because they've just gotten too expensive to maintain so next boat will be outboards. I hope some of the advice you've gotten here helps. Good luck with your repairs!