Inverter Installed....Finally

[NorCal Boater]

Three years ago and just two weeks after we bought our '89 340DA the Norcold referigerator took a crap. We had just place the order for the new swim platform from Swim Platforms, Inc. so a $1400 dual voltage refer was out of the question.

We went to local Fry's store and bought a 110 volt GE that fit the hole where the Norcold was. It has worked flawlessly except for when we are away from shore power or the genny is not running. I have been wanting to install an inverter but I didn't want a big one as I only wanted to power the refer.

A couple of weeks ago I installed a Xantrex Pro Series 1800 watt. It has a built in transfer switch detachable remote panel as well as AC power passthrough.

Our Sundancer had 2, 12 v batteries on the starboard side and 1 on the port side. I removed the single 12 volt and swaped it for 2 golf cart batteries.

The elecrical panel is on the port side as you go down the stairs to enter the cabin. There is also a panel below that that gives access to a large area that gets great airflow. I made a base from 3/4" marine plywood and used 5200 to attach it to the inside of the hull behind the panel. Using SST T-nuts and 1/4" bolts I mounted the inverter after the 5200 had cured for 7 days. The inverter only weighs 9 1/2 pounds so I don't think its going anywhere.

Here is the control panel that comes with the inverter.

I realized that I was going to have enough capacity to also provide power for my 15" LCD TV and the DVD player so I ran new wires up the the v-berth where the TV is located. I had a spare slot in my main breaker panel so I installed a new 20 amp breaker and wired that to the AC input of the inverter. The refer and ice maker were on the same breaker in the panel so I took the wires for the refer and the TV and connected them to the output side of the inverter. The ice maker is now on it's own circuit.

Lastly I ran 2/0 cable from the inverter to the batteries. When I turned everything on it all works perfectly. I now have a refer that works wwhether I am cruising or anchored out and the batteries charge from the charger or the alternator.

This weekend I cleaned up the loose wires and some other odds and ends and I am very happy with how everything came out.

 

[2000SEARAY280SS]

Did you replace your house battery with the golf carts or one of the starting batteries? I am assuming from you sig line you have twin 7.4's. It looks like a very nice install. Let us know how much time you get on the batteries. I would keep an eye on the drain hose over the 12 volt posts on the inverter.

 

[tobnpr]

I'm a little confused on how you wired it- if I understand you correctly, you did not hardwire the inverter into the AC system after the shorepower and genset for the transfer switch to operate? Instead just gave it dedicated breakers on the AC panel?

Why would you choose to do that, instead of hardwiring into the main panel feed, as it's designed to do?

 

[NorCal Boater]

Did you replace your house battery with the golf carts or one of the starting batteries? I am assuming from you sig line you have twin 7.4's. It looks like a very nice install. Let us know how much time you get on the batteries. I would keep an eye on the drain hose over the 12 volt posts on the inverter.

When I bought the boat the PO had just replaced all the batteries with new cranking batteries. The 2 on the starboard side are wired in parallel and are the house batteries. I have never had a problem running out of 12 volt juice. When those die I was thinking of replacing them with 2 dual purpose. I did replace the port cranking battery for the 2 golf carts.

There is a cover for the battery box and that drain hose is actually conduit for the battery cables from the switch as well as a few other wires.

 

[2000SEARAY280SS]

There is a cover for the battery box and that drain hose is actually conduit for the battery cables from the switch as well as a few other wires.

That makes a lot more sense. Do I understand you correctly you are running the Inverter of the Port Starting Batery? That seems risky.

 

[NorCal Boater]

That makes a lot more sense. Do I understand you correctly you are running the Inverter of the Port Starting Batery? That seems risky.

I replaced the port cranking battery with 2 golf carts. The golf carts supply the 12v for the inverter and also start the port engine. My engines always start right up and if the GCs do get low I have the crossover. Also the inverter shuts off if the battery voltage drops below 11.5 volts DC.

I have a marina neighbor/friend who has installed many inverters help me with this. He is very good with electrical stuff.

I've read a number of the posts on this site on all the views of how to install an inverter the right way and the wrong way. I knew if I did post this someone would tell me I'm gonna blow up my boat or something. But I posted this as there has been a number of posts recently about the cost of dual voltage refrigerators. I paid $150 for my refer and about $500 bucks for the inverter and all the associated parts. Now if that refer goes bad I only need to spend another $150 rather than $1400.

It has only been in for 2 weeks but so far all is working perfectly.

 

[2000SEARAY280SS]

Batteries are a temperamental bunch. I thought you might be relying on the cross over capability. Knowing your system limits and how to use it makes all the difference.

I posted an inverter thread here http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8025&highlight=inverter.

I just had one of my inverter batteries boil completely off while the other one in parallel was fine. It really killed the capacity of the battery bank. Still do not know why only one got toasted.