Installing a LCD Flat Panel TV in 240DA

I

Inkmann

New Member
Jun 25, 2007
30
North Western, Massachusetts
Boat Info
2002 240 Sundancer
Engines
5.0 mpi Bravo III
I want to install a new LCD Flat Panel TV in my 02 240 Sundancer.

I am thinking of putting the mounting bracket on the right hand side wall facing foreward so you can watch the in v-berth facing aft.

I am unsure if the wall can handle a 14lb TV DVD combo .

What do you thinK?

Any suggestions?

Thanks
John
 
The wall will support it but don't use a swivel type mount as it will get really messed-up when under way. Use the solid type that just turns out and doesn't swivel up/down.
 
Are these LCD TVs 12V?
 
gerryb said:
The wall will support it but don't use a swivel type mount as it will get really messed-up when under way. Use the solid type that just turns out and doesn't swivel up/down.
Click to expand...
I have a swivel mount that I bought at a home theatre store. This mount has tighteners that don't allow it to move. You could always also strap and button it to something to hold it in place. If I would have gone with a fixed mount I would have been able to watch in one position only. With the swivel I can watch from the berth bed or from the helm. Fixed mount IMO is a bad idea. BTW mine is 12V.
 
There's been a lot of interest in TV devices on the site lately. I'm sure the DTV transition is a big part of it. But one theme that comes up a lot, is people looking for a 12v tv or 12v dtv converter vs. 110volt units. Look carefully at the specs of the TV and converters. Sometimes only pictures of the contents will give a clue. There are many devices advertised as 110volt, just to find out they are really a 12v device with a power converter. Look for a picture of the power cord, it may be a brick.

I have a Sharp 13" LCD listed as 110v, but it's just a converter brick. Cut the wires between the TV and the brick and I can tap it into the 12v system on the boat. Same goes for those DTV converters. I installed my Artec T3 Pro power by cutting the wire after the brick and tapping it into the 12v system. Of course you still need to make sure its on a circuit that can handle the amperage.

Some like the picture quality of a full 110volt TV over the 12v units. Not sure I buy that, but either way the point being, you may think your getting a 110v unit only to find it's just a 12v unit with a brick.

Just my .02c
 
gerryb said:
The wall will support it but don't use a swivel type mount as it will get really messed-up when under way. Use the solid type that just turns out and doesn't swivel up/down.
Click to expand...

What type of mounting hardware is best to anchor my TV mount to the wall?

What is the wall made of, it don't want to damage or punchture the plastic/fiberglass walls in the head.
 
Inkmann said:
What type of mounting hardware is best to anchor my TV mount to the wall?

What is the wall made of, it don't want to damage or punchture the plastic/fiberglass walls in the head.
Click to expand...
Read the above posts a little closer, why did I even waste my time trying to explain it.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I am talking about the type of screws are being used to mount the brackets, I seem no mention of that above.

I want to mount to the opposite wall that you did, I am concerned about what the wall is constructed of.
 
I have a 33 Dancer and orginally installed a mounting bracket for a 13 inch TV. Yes the TV is heavy and I tie it back when under way. In the closet next to the berth I removed a cover panel (wiring for lights) and put a 3/4 inch backer for the TV mounting bracket. I through bolted the bracket into the fiberglass wall and plywood which carries the weight very well. Now I changed to a flat panel and new swivel bracket and used the same plywood method of mounting. This new flat panel is musk lighter and there is no need to tie it back. By the way, the reception is so much better with more channels.
Good luck W. Paul (aka) Y-knot
 
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