Install Trim Tabs yay or nay?

OllieC said:
I found irony in his post about drilling holes on a boat, in general.
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It is pretty funny when you consider the money getting out, rather than the water getting in. :D
 
You don't know how long he's owned one so there's your answer as long as you seal the holes, arnd filling the holes with sealant , then put the screws in they should be fine
 
I grew up on 24-26ft Sea Rays and Carvers, all had trim tabs and all got used a lot.

On my 48da, they never get touched (except doing a speed run to see what it topped out at).
 
Scott215 said:
So drilling holes below the water line are bad idea but but damn near every boat over 21 22 ft has them there's all kinds of holes below the water line I don't see boats sinking do you
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That's why our insurance is so high. Because we are all setting ourselves up for a sinking because of trim tabs.
 
Wow I'm not sure why I wasn't getting notifications for this thread anymore! I'm pretty much settled that I'll be installing tabs this winter. I'm hoping a black friday deal pops up for some good electric ones.
 
Pirate Lady said:
May I make a suggestion? Have a dealer install. Or someone trained in the installation. They must be installed precisely on the transom, a little too high or low and they wont work properly. Same with side to side.
I have seen threads over on another forum with multiple people who installed and can’t figure out why they don’t work properly.
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You can definitely make the suggestion, but I'm still planning to DiY. If it were a more valuable boat with higher stakes I'd probably go that route, but that isn't my style. FWIW I've modified a few cars in my day and the instruction manuals for tabs seem super straightforward. Measure once cut thrice is always my motto.
 
Not sure if you're a comedian or a bit dyslexic, but 'measure thrice and drill once' would be a safer bet if you are going to throw Pirate Lady's advice to the wind.

Not to imply that you can't do it, but if you're not a bit of a comedian, go slow and think it through.
Your insurance agent could be documenting this thread as we speak. o_O More over,
We would all hate to see you give any validity to Arminius' fears about having a Holey Hull. ;)
 
Yendor said:
Not sure if you're a comedian or a bit dyslexic, but 'measure thrice and drill once' would be a safer bet if you are going to throw Pirate Lady's advice to the wind.

Not to imply that you can't do it, but if you're not a bit of a comedian, go slow and think it through.
Your insurance agent could be documenting this thread as we speak. o_O More over,
We would all hate to see you give any validity to Arminius' fears about having a Holey Hull. ;)
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Comedian for sure. Follow the directions, measure a bunch and make sure to seal the holes. I'm sure I'll have more questions once I actually start. I figure if I was able to install a widebody kit with functional brake ducting on a newish corvette I can line up a few screw holes. And through the power of our lord and savior 5200 Marine adhesive all things are possible.
 
I thought it was measure twice and cut once and cut it too short and get another piece of lumber
 
Pirate Lady said:
Well good luck, I forgot modifying cars is same as installing below water line on boats. Might want to do a months worth of reading before you start drilling. Good luck.

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Fundamentally it's measuring, attention to detail, follow the directions, seal the holes and run some wire. Bennett has some great installation resources the initial video even talks about it being about a days project for a DiY'er: https://bennetttrimtabs.com/guide-to-trim-tabs/ Hopefully they'll have some sweet black Friday deals as well.

Float or Sink I'll surely have some pictures of the process in my other thread. I think the only real blocker will be waiting for temperatures to be in the stable operating range for the 5200 to cure correctly.
 
Regardless of what directions or some forum somewhere says, I wouldn't use 5200. That's super glue - which you don't need because this is a MECHANICAL connection. All you need is a good sealant like LifeSeal. I wouldn't use anything stronger than 4200 - and even that's more than you need. Using a strong adhesive only makes removal much, MUCH more difficult in the future. Some may say "I don't plan on removing it"... but what about a failure or accident.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Regardless of what directions or some forum somewhere says, I wouldn't use 5200. That's super glue - which you don't need because this is a MECHANICAL connection. ...
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On this we shall always disagree. :)

Curious why sealing or gluing as you say, is a bad thing for trim tabs? 3m actually recommends using 5200 for these type of things.

Question on how sealing the trim tab mount to the transom is a "Mechanical" connection? I guess putting screws into something makes it a mechanical connection?

I see mechanical as the PSS dripless shaft bearings, in that there is no other seal other then the mechanical pressure of the stainless up against the carbon seal. But that's me.

Sorry Dennis, you knew I would have to put my two cents in on that statement. :)
 
I would think 4200 would be plenty no leaks You can still get them off if you ever need to replace them
 
Skybolt said:
On this we shall always disagree. :)

Curious why sealing or gluing as you say, is a bad thing for trim tabs? 3m actually recommends using 5200 for these type of things.

Question on how sealing the trim tab mount to the transom is a "Mechanical" connection? I guess putting screws into something makes it a mechanical connection?

I see mechanical as the PSS dripless shaft bearings, in that there is no other seal other then the mechanical pressure of the stainless up against the carbon seal. But that's me.

Sorry Dennis, you knew I would have to put my two cents in on that statement. :)
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No worries, at all, Orlando! :)

I've been in this crazy marine business for too long o_O I know what it's like to have to remove something that has been superglued together. Yes, heat can help - but you have to be gentle as to not harm the gelcoat - and I'd rather recommend the easier route - which is still just as good.

Yes, "mechanical" becasue it's attached with lots of screws. Meaning, the screws are all that are needed to hold the tab plates onto the hull. However, we want to make sure that the screws don't back out over time - and, truthfully, any 'ol sealant will help with that. LifeSeal still has "sticky" properties - just not "Superman stickiness" like 5200. Although not needed, the 4200 would add a good amount of adhesive properties if one felt better about that... without making removal overly difficult. Boat Life LifeCaulk is similar to 4200.

I have found, over the years, that 5200 is one of the most widely (over) recommended products out there. 5200 is an excellent product, no doubt (and I do use it) -- but it actually has very few uses around the boat. Repairing a hull to deck joint would be a perfect example of where I would use it.

Over the years, I've installed (and other guys at the shop) plenty of tabs... never once did we use 5200 and never once has one come back with a problem. I just haven't found a need to make removal, down the road, so much harder than it has to be when another product will "seal" just as well.
 
Never say "will never have to remove".

Put these bad boy 12x16's on my old Chaparral 2550 SX (didn't have tabs when I got the boat), used life seal and they never leaked a drop or loosened up. And, the boat never sank.

1699098558680.png
 
Lazy Daze said:
No worries, at all, Orlando! :)

I've been in this crazy marine business for too long o_O I know what it's like to have to remove something that has been superglued together. Yes, heat can help - but you have to be gentle as to not harm the gelcoat - and I'd rather recommend the easier route - which is still just as good.

Yes, "mechanical" becasue it's attached with lots of screws. Meaning, the screws are all that are needed to hold the tab plates onto the hull. However, we want to make sure that the screws don't back out over time - and, truthfully, any 'ol sealant will help with that. LifeSeal still has "sticky" properties - just not "Superman stickiness" like 5200. Although not needed, the 4200 would add a good amount of adhesive properties if one felt better about that... without making removal overly difficult. Boat Life LifeCaulk is similar to 4200.

I have found, over the years, that 5200 is one of the most widely (over) recommended products out there. 5200 is an excellent product, no doubt (and I do use it) -- but it actually has very few uses around the boat. Repairing a hull to deck joint would be a perfect example of where I would use it.

Over the years, I've installed (and other guys at the shop) plenty of tabs... never once did we use 5200 and never once has one come back with a problem. I just haven't found a need to make removal, down the road, so much harder than it has to be when another product will "seal" just as well.
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Well I do see your point with old gelcoat, especially with a 20-30yr old boat. It does take some finesse to get that stuff off. Either way you can't go wrong with life calk, that is also a great product.
 
Skybolt said:
Well I do see your point with old gelcoat, especially with a 20-30yr old boat. It does take some finesse to get that stuff off. Either way you can't go wrong with life calk, that is also a great product.
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And, in the end... we all get to make up our own minds and do what we feel is best :)
 
You know, your fasteners have to be solid under load or they will move, cut slots and leak. Your boat will sink no matter how much goop you have used. The sailboat airheads make a religion out of penetrations before they sink. Searay sent me a diagram of where the plywood was in the transom which was good as foam core is not load bearing. You could just drill and figure your skinny kid can reach in and hold the nut if you have to through bolt. West does have stainless expanding wall anchors. Oh well, someone else will have to deal with it as long as it looks good when you sell. Ths seems like a high risk/low rewards kind of project. Put a cam in it.
 
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