inexpensive way of installin a fresh water flush on a 5.0

S

smittyasc3

New Member
Mar 23, 2011
92
LI,NY
Boat Info
2003 260 Sundancer
Engines
5.0 260 HP
So does anyone have any recommendations on how to install a fresh water flush onto a 5.0 mpi salt water cooled engine. I think it will be a real pain in the arse to put muffs onto my drive while at the dock to flush after a day out.
 
They make kits for Barvo III outdrives but not the Alpha's. If you have the Alpha drives you're stuck with the muffs.
 
Ok, so the link posted by David is interesting. They have a section for Inboard/Outboard engines. I have often thought of doing the same kind of idea myself. As Bucit mentioned, you cannot run the engine in this configuration to circulate the fresh water with an Alpha drive. However, I wonder how efficiently the water could be circulated, and the block drained of salt water, by applying fresh water under pressure to an upper coolant hose on the engine without running the engine? Just a waste of time?

My twin Alpha boat sits on a boat lift and I would love to be able to flush it after use, but I can't get to the location of the outdrives to attach muffs.

Tom
 
It has a bravo 3. A buddy of mine said something to the effect of installing a hose barb fitting but was not to to specific as to where it attach on the engine. I am quite handy so if someone can nudge me in the right direction as to what hose to attach too would be helpful. I would rather not purchase a kit that I could probably make up myself with parts I have in my shop. And pictures would be even better.
 
Gunn said:
Ok, so the link posted by David is interesting. They have a section for Inboard/Outboard engines. I have often thought of doing the same kind of idea myself. As Bucit mentioned, you cannot run the engine in this configuration to circulate the fresh water with an Alpha drive. However, I wonder how efficiently the water could be circulated, and the block drained of salt water, by applying fresh water under pressure to an upper coolant hose on the engine without running the engine? Just a waste of time?

My twin Alpha boat sits on a boat lift and I would love to be able to flush it after use, but I can't get to the location of the outdrives to attach muffs.

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, I keep mine on the lift also and the muffs suck. I wonder if you keep the drives in the water(salt) hook up this systm and turn off the outdrive valve as they show if it would work? This way the drive is pulling in saltater but not going anywhere, and the freshwater would be flushing the motor. Then you could reverse the valves keep the motors off and just back flush the outdrives?
 
You will find some photos here if you search, which will show systems where a connector is added to the top of the raw water filter lid. The sea cock is closed while fresh water is run in to the raw water strainer as the engine idles, This will circulate fresh water thru the cooling system. This should not be performed for a long period as the water flow may be insufficient. This method should be ever be performed with out the engine running or you will risk flooding the cylinders by black flooding the exhaust manifold.

Lots of Cap'ns like this approach, I'm not one of them. Keep the zincs and bonding system peak and stop worrying
 
Certainly no reason you can't do this with a T, some shut-offs and a fitting to adapt to a garden hose. BUT, make sure your shut-offs are FULL FLOW. You DO NOT want to decrease the ID of anything, here. I don't recall if the inlet on the backside of the sea water pump is 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". But, on your (our) boat, it's very easy to get to - just slip it off and measure it. Remember that when you're on the hose, don't run it over about 1200RPM.

REMEMBER to open the shut-off when you're done!!!!!!

Double clamp everything, rotating the clamps 180*.
 
I have a ton of plumbing parts here at my job. Was hoping to grab them and bring em home tonight to put together. I think it's 1 1/4" Tried looking it up online but they don't reference a hose size justa part number.
Lazy Daze said:
Certainly no reason you can't do this with a T, some shut-offs and a fitting to adapt to a garden hose. BUT, make sure your shut-offs are FULL FLOW. You DO NOT want to decrease the ID of anything, here. I don't recall if the inlet on the backside of the sea water pump is 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". But, on your (our) boat, it's very easy to get to - just slip it off and measure it. Remember that when you're on the hose, don't run it over about 1200RPM.

REMEMBER to open the shut-off when you're done!!!!!!

Double clamp everything, rotating the clamps 180*.
Click to expand...
 
The next thing to think about is reinforcement. The hose you're cutting into is not a reinforced hose like the output is. Now, I may be over thinking this (just postulating, at this point), but I would wonder if this "contraption" would end up being too heavy for the hose (over time). Might think about mounting it somewhere. However, seeing as the pressure hose is right there next to it, you might be able to cheat and use that for added stability.

This is something I've thought about doing many times - but never really went any further than what has been discussed here as I still trailer this boat. I'm curious to see how you work it out.
 
Good thinking...There is some space down there where I could use clamps.
QUOTE=Lazy Daze;474756]The next thing to think about is reinforcement. The hose you're cutting into is not a reinforced hose like the output is. Now, I may be over thinking this (just postulating, at this point), but I would wonder if this "contraption" would end up being too heavy for the hose (over time). Might think about mounting it somewhere. However, seeing as the pressure hose is right there next to it, you might be able to cheat and use that for added stability.

This is something I've thought about doing many times - but never really went any further than what has been discussed here as I still trailer this boat. I'm curious to see how you work it out.[/QUOTE]
 
Perko makes a "Flush pro" kit. It has a built in check valve. You can add this before the raw water pump. To ensure you don't draw in seawater while flushing you could install a valve to shut off the draw ahead of the "Flush Pro". I've been reluctant to install one because of my uncertainty of the polycarbonate housing's durability.
file_5_109.jpg
 
wish2fish said:
do I hear banjo music?
Click to expand...
Don't know.....maybe!

There are flush kits available but they seem pretty cheap, mostly plastic. I intend to put a flush kit on mine too. I also plan to supplement it with either a Salt-Away or Neutra-Salt system. My boat's in salt water all season not fresh water you got to do whatever can do.
 
Smitty, I was lying in bed and it dawned on me.... Reverse what I was saying about the pressure/non pressure hose in post #12. I mixed the two up in my head as I was typing. To correctly state things: The hose you are cutting into is the reinforced hose - it has to resist "vacuum" created by the impeller sucking water in. The output hose is a normal hose as it only needs to resist pressure and the hose won't collapse in on itself. Sorry about the confusion.

So, it's very likely that the intake hose will be just fine and will support the weight. But, still would probably be a good idea to shore it up. Even if the hose would be fine, I wouldn't want to put extra stress on the pump nipple (plastic). Jabsco makes a bronze-body replacement pump, by the way.

When you say "at your shop"... do you have brass or bronze fittings laying around? Bronze would be the material of choice.
 
@Dicor...Come over when your done and give me a hand!

dicor said:
I'm glad you started this thread it got me motivated. I just ordered a Neutra-Salt kit online. Got a good price too, $201 includes Tax & Shipping. Every little bit helps.
Click to expand...
 
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