In-Line Brake Line Shut-Off Valve?

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Lazy Daze

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Apr 21, 2009
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Well, I'll start with an example of what not to do when converting from drum brakes to disc brakes.

About 2 years ago I converted my trailer to discs - had to rebuild the entire drum set-up anyways - wasn't going to be much more $$ to go to discs. Everything was done correctly... higher pressure MC, shut-off solenoid, etc. And, everything functions as expected.

However, I recently had to use a tractor to back-up my boat into storage... Since the coupler was originally a "drum brake" coupler, there were no provisions to mechanically prevent the actuator from sliding and putting the brakes on (no pins/keys or a space to put a piece of 2x). :smt021

So, a car battery got strapped to the trailer frame and a couple of wire leads with alligator clips got used to power the solenoid. No big deal, but this is obviously not the ideal situation.

So... the options that I have thought of are (please comment or add to this list if you have any ideas):

1) Physically alter the coupler assembly - drill, cut, whatever - to accept some type of mechanical/physical lock-out procedure

2) Possibly use a 9V battery to power the reverse lock-out solenoid. There's a few trailers in the showroom so I can experiment with whether or not the solenoid would work under 9V. I can also find out how much current it draws and figure out how long the battery may last

3) Could I just install a simple, in-line shut-off valve? Myself, I can't think of why this wouldn't work??? Just an example: http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=364&part=ALL48010&add=no

#3 is favorite as it doesn't require anything extra - it's all self contained. I wouldn't need to worry about remembering to give someone a block of wood or the 9V battery if they were to move my trailer around. A "pin" lockout could be tied to the trailer, but it would involve a hole in the coupler assembly that could lead to rust (granted, I could hit the hole with a cold galvanizing spray). The pin would be my second choice.
 
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I say valve is choice 1.
9v batt 2nd.
I dont like the pin because it has to withstand the pressure put upon it but i would think it's also hard on the master cylinder(sounds like metal to metal?).

As long as the valve can hold it and the CONNECTIONS to the valve can hold it then I think that's a great idea.
 
My trailer has a valve connected to the back up lights.
When I move the boat with my tractor I use a large C clamp to prevent the actuator from moving.
Doug
 
Hey Lazy: That shutoff valve idea sounded like the whip to me till Doug chimed in with that old school c-clamp trick. Sounds simple and I like simple. Cant picture the c-clamp on my surge hitch for the moment but sounds like one would be able to affixed(affixed new word?) somewhere. I’d go look but it's -8* American, brrrr. ...Ron
 
Hmmm... That's interesting, too. My trailer is about 40 minutes away, but at least it's + 18*, here!

This is my coupler, it's a Titan / Dico Model 10:

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The only place I can think of to use the C-clamp would be on the flat surface behind that first set of bolts (from the left). I'm sure I'd want to avoid putting the C in the middle of the flat area to keep from deforming it? I wonder if the housing (main body of the coupler) would stand up to this type of pressure of the C running into it without bending/deforming? I mean, the C would be running into just the edge of the housing - I wonder if that edge would bend?

Now that I'm looking at a picture, I see that I might be able to incorporate that hole on the top... A piece of plate steel (for example, a 3" or 4" x 1/4" square plate) that would span the area between the hole and the main coupler body, with a bolt (used as a "pin") dropping into the hole.

The one benefit (to me) that I still see to the shut-off is that there is nothing extra to carry.. or, more importantly, lose. But, a C-clamp is certainly cost effective. I'll probably at least use that to get the rig out of storage.
 
Looking at the PIC. The area you mentioned to put the "C.."; perhaps a flat piece of steel bent to a U and slid into place as a hard stop. Now where to stow the "U" and what color to paint it?

Maybe Doug will chime back. ...Ron
 
BonBini said:
Looking at the PIC. The area you mentioned to put the "C.."; perhaps a flat piece of steel bent to a U and slid into place as a hard stop.
Click to expand...

OK, I see what you're saying. That would give more surface contact area than what I mentioned about the flat piece of stock, just sitting on top.
 
BonBini said:
Looking at the PIC. The area you mentioned to put the "C.."; perhaps a flat piece of steel bent to a U and slid into place as a hard stop. Now where to stow the "U" and what color to paint it?

Maybe Doug will chime back. ...Ron
Click to expand...
One one trailer I made a (I'll call it) sqaure U shaped piece of steel that went along the bolts or whatever was there to prevent the actuator from going back.
That worked well also. The C clamp is handy and I only use when moving the boat with the tractor. As I mentioned it has a relief valve that works when the backup lights of the truck come on.
The C clamp goes in the same location. You have to snug it up pretty good to keep it from moving. No harm has been done to the trailer.
Doug
 
dmcb said:
One one trailer I made a (I'll call it) sqaure U shaped piece of steel that went along the bolts or whatever was there to prevent the actuator from going back.
That worked well also. The C clamp is handy and I only use when moving the boat with the tractor. As I mentioned it has a relief valve that works when the backup lights of the truck come on.
The C clamp goes in the same location. You have to snug it up pretty good to keep it from moving. No harm has been done to the trailer.
Doug
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, Doug. I've got lot's of time to think about this. The piece of plate steel may very well be the way I go. It's simple and easy - I can store it the trailer's tool box - even paint it a pretty chartreuse color! If the best I can do for a valve is $50, the choice is obvious.

Thanks Kev, Ron & Doug! I appreciate your input. I know this is a just a little, tiny issue - but bouncing ideas off you guys and getting another perspective really helps.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Thanks for the suggestion, Doug. I've got lot's of time to think about this. The piece of plate steel may very well be the way I go. It's simple and easy - I can store it the trailer's tool box - even paint it a pretty chartreuse color! If the best I can do for a valve is $50, the choice is obvious.

Thanks Kev, Ron & Doug! I appreciate your input. I know this is a just a little, tiny issue - but bouncing ideas off you guys and getting another perspective really helps.
Click to expand...

Saves some wiring also.
You guys have been in business from the same year I was born.
A good year. :grin:
Doug
 
dmcb said:
A good year. :grin:
Doug
Click to expand...

Must have been! :grin:

The valve won't require any wiring... but it would involve bleeding the brakes. No big deal, but it's obviously easier to not have to bleed them. :smt001
 
dmcb said:
The one I have works when the backup lights are on. How does yours work?
Doug
Click to expand...

I may not have explained it clearly enough in the first post...

I do have an electrically operated (off the backup lights) solenoid. But I was referring to putting in a mechanical shut-off valve downstream of the solenoid. That way, if there wasn't 12V around to operate the solenoid (hooked up to a tractor), I could simply turn the shut-off valve to stop the flow of fluid.
 
Why not just get a small 12V battery that you can hook up to operate the solenoid when required?
 
Westie said:
Why not just get a small 12V battery that you can hook up to operate the solenoid when required?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I thought of that - in fact that's why I was going to experiment with a 9V battery - maybe it'd have just enough juice. For me, though, I want to try and accomplish this in a manner that requires the least amount of extra stuff (which you can read as "nothing for me to lose or forget to bring with me:smt001).

It is an option, though - thanks for the thought!
 
I use a wire from the tractor battery with a toggle switch and a single pin connector. I just plug it into the appropiate socket on the trailer pin and flip the switch. Works good and if I move someone elses boat with the tractor it's good to go.
 
Hi Dennis, my trailer (that you so graciously ordered bunk supports for) has a fluid quick disconnect as well as the backup valve. It appears that the tongue is removable. The down side is it may introduce a tiny amount of air as it is connected/disconnected. But it works good and my brakes feel strong.
 
half_full said:
Hi Dennis, my trailer (that you so graciously ordered bunk supports for) has a fluid quick disconnect as well as the backup valve. It appears that the tongue is removable. The down side is it may introduce a tiny amount of air as it is connected/disconnected. But it works good and my brakes feel strong.
Click to expand...

I'm still contemplating what to do. With the boat in storage, it's been "out of sight, out of mind".

I probably wouldn't go the complete disconnect route as that would lead to loss of fluid and possibly, as you mention, air.

The tractor that is being used doesn't have any 12v wiring that is easily accessible (not my tractor). If I use a truck that doesn't have a flat-5-pin, that's no big deal as I can just plug the 4-pin's "lights" pin into my trailer's "brake" pin by connecting them at 90* to each other.

I still like the shut-off valve - but a piece of 1/8" steel cut to the right shape may just be the ticket as it's simple and free.


How are your new bunks working out for you? Everything OK?
 
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