If your genny won't start, close the seacock?

Greg

Active Member
Mar 27, 2008
1,310
North Jersey
Boat Info
2003 480 Sedan Bridge
Engines
QSM-11's
I just read in a magazine, that if you are cranking your generator and it won't start after 15 to 20 seconds, close the seacock. The reason is that without the internally combusted exhaust gases, the muffler can fill up with seawater and eventually fill the cylinders.

They recomend closing the seacock if you are having troubles getting it started, and open it once it starts.

I have never heard this before, but it kind of makes sense. Though it might be good for other to hear it.

Can anybody verify if this is the appropriate action to take in such a situation?

What about the mains?
 
Yes.

Don't know on the mains. If you give them enough of a break (starter cool time), the water should have a chance to run out of the bottom of the big 'ole mufflers, but I would hate to be wrong about that.
 
Not usually necessary because most Sea Ray generators are mounted high enough in the bilge to gravity drain the muffler before the water level reaches the height of the generator mixing elbow. But, every model is different.

Same answer on the mains................

But, if you can't get diesels to fire before the mufflers fill up, you either have weak batteries or engine problems.
 
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My 340 manual says 10 seconds of genny cranking. If no start, close the seacock and make two more 10 second cranking attempts. If it starts, immediately open the seacock.
 
The problem is once it starts, the suction is so great, you can't open the seacock. If you take this method to starting, shut the machine off IMMEDIATELY lest the impeller burn up.
 
I have my generator in pieces in my garage from raw water getting in the cylinders... I am doing the work myself and it has cost me $2K in parts... If I had to do over, I would have removed the spark plugs when I heard the engine kick back... I never felt so stupid when I hydro locked the generator... I had installed a fresh water wash connection in raw water line and pushed fresh water past the impeller and into the cylinders... Then I got the engine to start... I bent my connecting rods...
 
My start/stop switches do not work on my genny (on the repair list). Since I would never make it from the panel in the cabin to the seacock before the impellor burns up, I just drain the vernalift if I feel that I have cranked for too long. If I have to crank my generator for 20 seconds though, I've got other issues...
 
quality time-

This might be a easy fix for you........

Westerbeke sometimes hides the by-pass switch on the generator control box. Feel all around and behind the control box to see if there is a toggle switch some where out of sight. That switch needs to be closed for the remote panel to work.
 
If my generator does not start after three attemps (long crack) I shut off the seacock. I open it after I get started.
 
My start/stop switches do not work on my genny (on the repair list). Since I would never make it from the panel in the cabin to the seacock before the impellor burns up, I just drain the vernalift if I feel that I have cranked for too long. If I have to crank my generator for 20 seconds though, I've got other issues...

I like that idea. Do you have any pix of the setup? Did you install a petcock in it?
 
The lift mufflers all should have a drain in them from the factory. It's a small nut at the bottom....utilized for winterziation mostly.
 
quality time-

This might be a easy fix for you........

Westerbeke sometimes hides the by-pass switch on the generator control box. Feel all around and behind the control box to see if there is a toggle switch some where out of sight. That switch needs to be closed for the remote panel to work.

Frank, I should rephrase my statement. The start/stop toggles work, but as soon as I release the preheat toggle on the remote panel the generator shuts down. Works fine from the cabin panel though.
 
Frank, I should rephrase my statement. The start/stop toggles work, but as soon as I release the preheat toggle on the remote panel the generator shuts down. Works fine from the cabin panel though.

The Start switch on the cabin control panel may be a 3-switch rocker including the start position. (Off/On/Start). I can't remember, but I believe that my cabin rocker switch needs to be set to a certain position for the generator to run from the ER controls. (It needs to be either ON or OFF... sorry I can't remember which). Otherwise, it will quit after releasing the preheat from the generator ER control panel.

Thanks,
Mike
 
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Good questions about the remote controls. I've tried ours and they didn't work. I'll have to check for the bypass or try different settings on the control panel. Being able to operate it from the ER would make winterization much easier.
 

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