if I jump out solenoid engine cranks but no spark

[JohnEGraham]

The boat is a 1998 DA 5.7 EFI
I've looked through the conditions on Sterndrives.com but I have a "double issue." not covered.
The engine Cranks real fast if I jump the remote solenoid (in the control box on top) but even with the key in the "on" position I get gas but no spark / no start

Sterndrive tells me to replace the remote solenoid because there is power there and it did not pull in but what the odds of two issues?
The Guages activate and I hear the whistle.
I Have checked and Cleaned the Grounds, Changed the 90amp breaker at the starter and checked all the breaker in control box.

I guess I should check the large plug in the back and its pins
Thanks all in advance
John

www.sterndrives.com/no_crank_condition.html

 

[Ferris]

I'm not too familiar with the 5.7 but if I were you I'd verify power every where with a meter and if present I assume you have two issues.

When you say you get fuel do you mean the see injector firing and how did you test spark?

 

[scoflaw]

Do you have 12 volts at the coil with key on ?

 

[dvx216]

when you jump the start solenoid that is all your doing if you are not getting power from the ignition switch this might be the problem .You need to get a volt ohm meter and on DC voltage setting see if you have 12 volts on the purple wire to the ignition switch by the sounds of it you are not getting 12 volts back from the ignition switch. Your neutral switch is also a part of this circuit. This system is not that complicated find a wiring diagram online you will see how the voltage is supplied from you motor to the ignition switch then back to the motor.One place to start is your main electrical harness plug. Unplug it to make sure it is clean.

 

[JohnEGraham]

Hi, 5.7 Efi Gm regular ignition ( Not Tunderbolt)
Well, I replaced the remote solenoid and got the engine turning over.
But The No spark issue still is a problem!
*Bought spark tested and checked with 2nd one to be sure it wasn't faulty
*I replaced the Coil
*Changed the ignition coil sensor - taking the distributor out ( which was only a couple of years old after rebuild)
* Checked all the fuses including the larger 50 amp main
*Cleaned all the terminals /grounds
* had a mechanic run a computer diagnostic for Faults which checked out
* The larger red wire to the coil does get the 13.7 volts ( when I plug the connector in I hear the Electric fuel pump
* Disconnected the Gray send wire on the Tech *
* Disconnected and cleaned the larger Main Plug / Socket with like 10 connectors
* There are two plug-type relays above which are good
I have an acquaintance who has been helping me who works for a certified Mercruiser shop...
He is going to give me a known good Distributor to try...
After that, he has thought it might be the computer?
I am now starting to research that possible computer issue and what does it do in the firing of the coil
NEW THINGS CHECKED TODAY:
tried known good computer ECM I think it called?.. I was a little different model but the mechanic said basic functions should work
*Cleaned grounds that go into the large harness
* pulled the dashboard to get to the key switch and Checked that that all worked. purple wire got hot.. which was a good thing
* the red / whit wire feeding the coil got its proper 14. volts
Tried a different Distributor, Another Coil. All known good.