I hope I'm not f***ed!

What's the likely outcome?

  • Probably the head or gasket. Fix it!

    Votes: 1 5.9%
  • Probably another major part. Fix it!

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Probably should repower

    Votes: 16 94.1%
  • You're f***ed. Sink the the thing.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    17

kingfisher23

New Member
Jul 7, 2014
38
NC
Boat Info
1981 310 Express
Engines
Twin 5.7L Mercruiser V8s
Straight drives
Technical information: Sea Ray 310 Express running twin MerCruiser 5.7L straght-drive inboards with closed-loop cooling. Engines are (to the best of my knowledge) 1981-vintage and have just slightly less than 2000 hours on them. Well-maintained, from what I can gather. PO was a navy mechanic and did all his own work. Except for the RPM issue, engines were running great before the weekend.


----------------------------------------

WELL my RPM issue went on the back burner this weekend. We had the family out on Sunday to check out the boat and have a little Labor Day Weekend celebration. I knew my RPMs weren't acting right but the engines still push the boat ok. We loaded up with people and cruised about 5 miles north of the marina to anchor in a little cove for the afternoon. Good times ensued, everyone loves the new boat. Swimming, eating, sitting in the sun, etc. All around, a great time.

Then we headed back south. Boat was making what I could consider "normal" speed given the history of low WOT and the number of people on board. One of my more astute passengers noted a faint exhaust smell coming from the boat. I (perhaps foolishly) put it off as a symptom of someone who has never been on a boat before. :smt021

I started to hear a small ticking sound that seemed to be coming from the starboard engine. It was very quiet, so much that I at first mistook it for a rattling cotter pin on my pilot bench. I had just recognized the sound as a potential problem when the starboard engine RPMs started to waver. We were cruising at 3200, and the tach showed the engine dipping to 2200 or so. I immediately backed off the throttles.

At that moment, I heard a loud "pop" that came from the starboard section of the compartment. I also noticed that I was WAY over temp (engines normally run at 180, gauge was pegged at 240). I don't know if this was a gradual overheat or a sudden one. I wasn't paying as close attention to my gauges as I should have been.

I immediately shut the engines down and opened the compartment hatch. Some steam was swirling around and there was antifreeze in the bilge area. :smt100

With a full complement of passengers on board (some of whom were notorious panickers), I made the executive decision to not investigate further until I had cleared the vessel. I nursed her home on the port engine and tried to hide the inevitable panic of a first-time engine malfunction. We made it in safely, though getting into the slip with only one engine running needs to go on my list of maneuvers to practice.

After everyone said their goodbyes I opened up the engine compartment to survey the damage. The temp gauge still read very high on the starboard engine. I began to suspect the raw water impeller of damage. Not really knowing what else to do, I hooked up my dock hose to the raw water inlet and started to flush the engine. In an effort to possibly diagnose the problem, I cranked the engine. It started up fine, but seemed to be running rough. I also noted a large amount of white steam coming from the exhaust port that smelled like antifreeze. I've had a small amount of white steam coming out of the exhaust on both engines since I bought the boat (August 1), but this was excessive. I shut it down pretty quickly. I continued to monitor the engine temp gauge for the next few hours until it cooled all the way down.

Monday morning bright and early, I set out to check the starboard impeller. I managed to get the water pump off and opened up, to find that the impeller was just fine. Got everything put back into place and tightened with only minor cuts and swearing. I noted that the heat exchanger on the starboard had no coolant visible under the cap, and the overflow tank was empty. I refilled both.

Here's where the real fun starts. :wow: I went to start the engine up and the starter turned over but the engine wasn't making the normal sounds. "Deeper" is how I would describe them. And from what seems to be the center of the engine, I get a loud "knock" sound while the engine is trying to turn over. I didn't hold the key in the ignition position for long enough to see if the knock was repetitive or a one-time thing. :smt089

I enlisted the help of a fellow marina resident who had rebuilt his own MerCruiser last year to come look at my issue. Same thing. Deep sounds, loud knock, no starting. He also noticed a small amount of bubbling coming from the side of my heat exchanger.


:huh:


So I had a local service tech come out this morning to check things out. His off-the-bat diagnosis was a busted head gasket or a cracked head. No solid quote on price to fix. He did note that there did not appear to be any water in the oil, which I take is a good thing. After speaking to his service manager on the phone this afternoon, I walked away with a quote of "at least $1000 if it's the gasket, but it could be a lot more once we get into it." He was pretty clear on a turnaround time of 30 days, and he offered a trailer and tow vehicle to get the 31' x 12' x 11,000lb boat to his shop and back.

I have another local place coming to give me a second opinion (I got two recommendations from my slip neighbors) sometime end of next week. When describing the problem over the phone, the second service tech said that I might be looking at an engine that is simply worn out. This would, I assume, necessitate repowering the boat.

!!!SO!!!

Long story short, my cruising season is over. I still have a very pretty view from my floating deck, and the marina doesn't meter electricity or water. So my lake apartment is still livable.

But I have some decisions to make, and for that I'm enlisting the help of you fine CSR members.

Does a blown head gasket make sense, given the chain of events? What should I be expecting from a cost standpoint?

If I decide to repower with a brand-new 5.7l MerCruiser, do I need to be worried that mixing a new engine and an old engine is a recipe for disaster? That is, should I look to replace both engines in one haul-out-and-take-it-to-a-dealer shot?


On the good side, I ran some numbers today. Given that I was quoted $10,500 for two new drop-in engines with installation, I could replace both and still come in below the NADA Used Boat Value given what I paid for the boat. And I removed the stupid-looking "flying saucer" TV antenna that has been driving me crazy. So there's that.

Evan
 
Last edited:
$10,500 for 2 drop in motors with install?? Where do you get a deal like that?
 
Before the question gets asked:

No, I didn't have a survey done. Yes, I'm aware of the potential issues that no survey could pose. Live and learn, I guess.


H2ONUT: that was the price quoted by a local MerCruiser dealer. I have working transmissions and they're inboards, so no sterndrive to replace. He quoted me $10,500-$12,500 for both.

Evan
 
Mine did some of the same things last year. All it was was the risers and manifolds. Other damage could be a blown head gasket.
When mine went it over pressured the freshwater side of the cooling system which caused the smells, the same smells you have talked about.

Detroit Motors, drop in engines...30g's++
 
I wouldn't dump another penny into that motor, you can't squeeze blood from a rock.

If you can afford to repower them both, it would be better than one now then one next season when the other blows up, and you do it all over. Cost wise it makes sense to do them together to get a better deal. Plus then you can give the bilge a super cleaning, as well as get at things you can't normally access.
 
Repowered both of my engines with Jasper 5.7 a few years ago. About 10.5K. Working well so far (80 hours). Had done it with original Mercs...a lot more.
 
Sounds like a blown head gasket and it took your lower end out. Head gasket is easy but the knock in the block is a game changer. Sounds like the rod bearings are gone. Repower with reman engines and forget about a costly rebuild. You can pull the head just to double check but don't spend to much money kicking a dead horse.

Just my opinion having not heard the knock first hand.
 
For piece of mind, just run a compression test on the engine and post the numbers. That will tell you if a head gasket is blown or the block is cracked.

Those engines have served well but there comes a time when the amount of wear on them makes putting more money into them a lost cause. You don't want to lose next season as well do to another problem.

John
 
I personally would like to know what happened and what caused it but just to satisfy curiosity and to keep it from happening again but....
if the head gasket is blown on a 2000hr SBC any top end work would probably be a temporary fix and cause oil consumption
and blow-by from the worn bottom end.
Guess it depends on what your budget will stand and if you really love the boat. NADA really doesn't apply to value on 30+ year old boats..they bring what the market will bear.
If it were mine and I was in love with that particular boat I would probably just repower and do all the mechanicals while the motors were out. Transmissions and stuffing boxes are just more parts while out.
if you do engines put new manifolds on while they are out.
Repair it as if you will own it forever and never want to do it again.
All IMHO.
 
Given you didn't have a survey done, I would make sure there are no other major problems with the hull before spending anything on the engines...
 
Thanks for all the replies. Keep the advice coming!

I picked up this boat in trade for a vehicle I wanted to be rid of. I do love the classic design, and my family has history with Sea Ray (my grandmother used to work in the Merritt Island plant, where this boat was made). As a recent college grad, this is the only way I could possibly hope to own a large, quality boat like this one.

Thanks to everyone's advice, I'm leaning toward a repower instead of trying to dig in and find all the problems with these engines. I'm currently waiting on a callback from my local Mercruiser dealer with a solid price. I also contacted a local surveyor to have the hull checked before I have anything added.

Please keep the opinions and thoughts coming!
 
If you can muster the desire to investigate yourself, Get a piece of 2 x4 drill 8 holes big enough to hold spark plugs top in hole. Remove sparks look at them very carefully noting if wet with water-coolant etc put em in order on 2x4 even write cyl numbers on that block. If any are wet suspect of having a combustion chamber to coolant sealing problem. Put on saftey glasses or face shield with sparks out looking at engine either hot wire it at the starter or have somone bump starter key with iginition disabled(wire pulled from distributor should be points??) for a 2 second max note if any cyl push coolant\water out that cyl or cylinders will have the mechanical problem. Then do a compression check on all 8 cyl this test can give you an insight to general health of the internal compression sealing parts. If you heard clunking noise you could have busted a valve, piston and\or crankshaft journal (even a bent rod if hydraulicd). If it is only a head gastket(s) and\or valve taking the heads off your self is possible and having a reputable mchine shop for rework is a lot less than new engine. Use only marine gaskets! If it is a busted piston and crank the whole engine will need a rebuild then comes decision time how much you want to spend, rebuild or repower. Rebuilding a SBC is not expensive just shop for right parts. If you need a engine core if your heads, block, crank is damaged beyond repair. A good source is same vintage 3/4 > Chev\GMC pickup or van, carefull the could have been repalced itself with less capable HW. Casting numbers tell what they are block, crank, heads. I think a SBC weighs 500lbs 6 of your college friends should be able to lift it out, use long bar with chains attached to engine to lift it out.
 
If you plan on pulling the motors get a preassure washer and really clean the bilge.
afterwoods
replace the raw water hoses from strainers to pump if the are original.
I had the boat with 454 I couldnt see the forward bilge pump space was so cramped might want to check it out or add a second pump. i added a second pump with a y adapter with a check valve so u can add a second pump and only use one dischage line.
than get dirty and paint the bilge so u can show off those new motors.

post a few pics of the engine compartment im intrested to see what it looks like with sbc

Saverio
 
Update:

I was out at the marina this weekend for a get together, so I didn't have any time to tinker in the engine compartment. But I did take a minute to try cranking the engine so my neighbor could hear what was going on in hopes of further diagnosing the issue...

No knocking! It won't start, but the knock is mysteriously missing now.

I did find out I need to pull the water pump again. I didn't get the seal reinstalled correctly so it leaks when running. Next weekend I'll have some time to dig into the engine myself and check plugs, cylinders, oil, etc. Are there any threads or useful resources out there to help with the work? I'm generally pretty handy but I like to work with shop manuals. I haven't been able to find one for this engine.


Any new thoughts about what could have caused a disappearing knock?
 
Get a Seloc,or Clymer or better yet a Merc manual for the early 80's SBC engines. Ebay has them as do some marine stores. No ideas on the mystery knock on my end.
 
Get a Seloc,or Clymer or better yet a Merc manual for the early 80's SBC engines. Ebay has them as do some marine stores. No ideas on the mystery knock on my end.

I've looked at the Seloc manuals, but they're all listed as stern drive model manuals. Would the engines be interchangeable?

I'll check for a Mercruiser manual on eBay.
 
It turns over and sounds like it is about to start, but won't quite fire up. No knocking sound though.
 
dont crank it anymore u still might have water in the cyclinders. you should remove all plugs and take note to any wet ones or water coming out. remove all plugs and try cranking it. if no water comes out u might be ok
 
The base engine of a sterndrive and inboard are essentially the same. There were a few instances of starters being located in slightly different spots but the block, heads, manifolds etc are the same.
 

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