I failed at DIY Boat Maint

Morpheus

New Member
May 7, 2007
2,450
Odessa, FL
Boat Info
2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
Engines
5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
:smt089I had to throw in the towel today and towed the boat to Marine Max (Cape Haze)

Yesterday I went an spend $400+ on Oil, Oil Filter, Lube, Fuel Filter, IAC MUFFLER, Sparkplugs etc.

Today was the day to give the boat a good run through.

1. Filled the Batteries took half a gallon of distilled water, is that normal? The Turkey Baster although a good idea still made a mess.

2. Put some fresh gas in with 6month+ plus old gas. Started up without a problem.

3. First thing I notice is the Sea Water Pump is reading between 0 and .03 this can't be good, I keep an eye on the temp.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559094945/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559102161/

Temp stays below 160 so I bring the throttle up to 1200rpm for a minute or so still stays below 160 and Sea Water Pump still reads 0 must be working otherwise it would be overheating right? I put it back in nuteral and the temp jumps to 163 but then slowly works it way back down to below 160 again so Impeller must be working but why 0 PSI?

I run the boat for a good while runs like it's new on to next item.

4. While all this was going on I wanted to change the fresh water out, so I turn the pump on and put a rubber band around a sprayer. After it's stopped (I assume cause it was empty) I turn off the pump and refill, then I turn the pump on and well now it don't work :smt021

5. Now let's drain the oil I pull on the plug but the hose is stuck I finally get it out (seems shorter then I expected) and try to remove the end. Try and Try and Try, snap off the plug from it so now I need a new attachment, try and try and look up and see (#6)

6. Exhaust Bellows is not attached :smt021 WHY HOW (Blame Clearwater MarineMax) doesn't appear to be any way to re-attach without removing drive. :smt013
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3560008092/

At this point I'm hot, I'm tired, I'm pissed off. :smt089

I call Cape Haze MM and no one is there (I expected that) but a sales guy answers the phone says he will open the gate for me to park the boat inside for them to look at during the week.

So lessons I have learned:

1. I'm not cut out for DIY Boat Maint.
2. Doing Boat Maint in Florida during the day in the sun sucks and if I ever try again it will be during the winter months.
3. When your hot and sweaty and pissed off you start to go to fast and forget things, got the cover on then realized I'd not raised the drive :smt021

Finally take a look at these pictures, why is the paint scraping off the shaft for the drive trim and should I replace my annodes (wonder if I can do that myself)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559202457/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559806556/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559813562/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559820964/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559015275/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3559832458/
 
I'd change the prop anode pronto.

i change mine every year regardless
 
Sorry to hear about your DIY problems what a bummer.

Who changed the oil last time? Sounds like the put the cap back on too tight.

How long did the fresh water pump run? Should only run it about 10-15Min max at a time.

I think I would have a talk with the service people about the bellows.

As to the FL heat, you know there has to some negative to being able to boat year round (Grin)

Hope you get back in the water quick.
 
Sorry to hear about your DIY problems what a bummer.

Who changed the oil last time? Sounds like the put the cap back on too tight.

How long did the fresh water pump run? Should only run it about 10-15Min max at a time.

I think I would have a talk with the service people about the bellows.

As to the FL heat, you know there has to some negative to being able to boat year round (Grin)

Hope you get back in the water quick.

Ooops on the pump I ran it till the tank was empty well I thought it was empty I don't know if the pump quick or it was empty but now I'm guessing I burnt up the pump or does it have some kind of protection? (DANG IT :smt021)

Clearwater Marine Max did the last oil change but I don't know if they pump it out from the top or use the hose.

Clearwater Marine Max also did the last service so the bellows would be on them which as you know I hate them and will never go back to them, Giving Cape Haze a shot hopefully they can do a better job. The service Manager name is Pete Rose (not the baseball player)
 
I thought it looked kinda bad, that one has about 25 hours on it.

Are you sure they changed it last time? Does look like more wear than the other ones????
But that is a good thing since it is doing its job:thumbsup:
 
Are you sure they changed it last time? Does look like more wear than the other ones????
But that is a good thing since it is doing its job:thumbsup:

That's true the drive looks new (except the skeg that I need to repait from grounding)

So they must be working. And I was charged for them to be changed I think they were new but again we are talking Clearwater MM so who knows.

This time I'm gonna pay real close attention and the oil filter that's on there is white and the new one is black so I'll definitly notice that.
 
Got your Pm. Man that sucks! Now I'm scared to turn the key on.
As for the water pump, I had the same issue last year & found the debris screen ( next to the pump) had clogged up with junk. Cleaned it out & it ran like new again.
 
Got your Pm. Man that sucks! Now I'm scared to turn the key on.
As for the water pump, I had the same issue last year & found the debris screen ( next to the pump) had clogged up with junk. Cleaned it out & it ran like new again.

Don't be scared the boat ran fine it just kicked my butt trying to change the dang oil.

It's at MM now I'll just have them check it for $85 an hours :smt009
 
have a question. did mm change your exhaust boot before thats why it fell off? or what did they do to make it fall off. Also the prop zinc on the bravo3 usually goes allot quicker then the other zincs because of all of the stainless props and shafts there.
 
also with the oil hose that seems short, it might be caught on something or they do install plastic clamp on the hose so if the bilge plug isn't installed and you put the boat in the water the hose can't come out to far that the prop could cut it and leak all of your oil out of the motor. It has happened to mercruiser when they first installed these on motors so they put those clamps on there.
 
Can't comment on the I/O issues, but
The zincs look fine. Rule of thumb is to replace them before they are 50% worn. Yours look to be barely pitted. Hell, they still have the sku tag on 'em.
When you say the freshwater pump "don't work", do you mean it isn't pumping water, or it's not running? Should be no problem to operate the pump for fifteen minutes straight.
 
You need a mentor. Find someone who's local to you, who has been there and done that. See if you can get him to show you the ropes.

Best regards,
Frank C
 
Can't comment on the I/O issues, but
The zincs look fine. Rule of thumb is to replace them before they are 50% worn. Yours look to be barely pitted. Hell, they still have the sku tag on 'em. When you say the freshwater pump "don't work", do you mean it isn't pumping water, or it's not running? Should be no problem to operate the pump for fifteen minutes straight.

As per recommendations here I picked up a whole set of zincs from boatzincs.com. Great pricing and 2 day shipping. But make sure you peel off any stickers. Zincs work better when their surface is exposed. Yours don't look bad.

Most fresh water pumps can be rebuilt, and some are more tolerant than others to running dry. You generally don't want to do that. But if it cooked the pump's impeller or diaphragm it can be usually rebuilt without a lot of expense. Provided the electric motor is still good, which running dry wouldn't typically cause harm. Does it spin, just not pump water?
 
have a question. did mm change your exhaust boot before thats why it fell off? or what did they do to make it fall off. Also the prop zinc on the bravo3 usually goes allot quicker then the other zincs because of all of the stainless props and shafts there.

All service has been done by Clearwater MM at this point, I would assume they pulled the drive at 1yr so it's on them to have not put the exahust boot on or can it just come off on it's own? I have no idea how long it's been that way but I will be checking in the future, with it off is there any harm could water get in there and cause problems?


also with the oil hose that seems short, it might be caught on something or they do install plastic clamp on the hose so if the bilge plug isn't installed and you put the boat in the water the hose can't come out to far that the prop could cut it and leak all of your oil out of the motor. It has happened to mercruiser when they first installed these on motors so they put those clamps on there.

That makes sense on not being to long to get cut by the prop but if your hose is hanging out that means your plug is gone and you got other issues :grin:

Can't comment on the I/O issues, but
The zincs look fine. Rule of thumb is to replace them before they are 50% worn. Yours look to be barely pitted. Hell, they still have the sku tag on 'em.
When you say the freshwater pump "don't work", do you mean it isn't pumping water, or it's not running? Should be no problem to operate the pump for fifteen minutes straight.

That's just the thing, I don't know what 50% worn looks like but that's what I have you guys for :grin:

You need a mentor. Find someone who's local to you, who has been there and done that. See if you can get him to show you the ropes.

Best regards,
Frank C

I agree Frank, I have been looking but have not met anyone that can do exactly that. I even tried on Craigs List but then how do you know they really know what they are doing.

As per recommendations here I picked up a whole set of zincs from boatzincs.com. Great pricing and 2 day shipping. But make sure you peel off any stickers. Zincs work better when their surface is exposed. Yours don't look bad.

Most fresh water pumps can be rebuilt, and some are more tolerant than others to running dry. You generally don't want to do that. But if it cooked the pump's impeller or diaphragm it can be usually rebuilt without a lot of expense. Provided the electric motor is still good, which running dry wouldn't typically cause harm. Does it spin, just not pump water?

I couldn't hear the pump running so I'm guessing it's shot and since the boat is at MM now I can't double check so I'll have them look this time but if it happens again (probably will eventually) I'll see if I can do a better diagnosis but after all the other stuff yesterday I wasn't in the mood to figure out why the water pump wasn't working.


Thanks everyone for your input.
 
The zincs look fine. Rule of thumb is to replace them before they are 50% worn. Yours look to be barely pitted. Hell, they still have the sku tag on 'em.

1. tobnpr is right about the zincs.

2. Check the circuit breaker for the water pump if there's no noise at all (somebody already mentioned this). Otherwise, you have to pull out the voltmeter to test it.

3. One of my oil drain hoses is very short and hard to fish out, so maybe yours had a similar issue. I "fixed" it so it would be easier the next time.

4. You are correct - MarineMax sucks. I have posted frequently about many of my trips to different MM locations. Now I am converted to be a DIY'er. If it makes you feel better, the first time I do any project on my boat, it is usually a slow & frustrating experience. But the second time, I am able to do it quickly and easily. I think the first time I tried to get the oil tube out, it took 30 minutes (long story), but now it takes 1 minute.
 
It will get better Morpheus! Next time just do one project at a time.
 
6. Exhaust Bellows is not attached :smt021 WHY HOW (Blame Clearwater MarineMax) doesn't appear to be any way to re-attach without removing drive. :smt013
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrsmoofy/3560008092/

From the picture it looks like there isn't any bellows adhesive on the transom end. That's critical because there's a lot of stress put on the bellows everytime you lift the outdrive to the trailer position, which, in your case, is everytime you use the boat. The stainless clamp alone will not hold it on. Eventually it gets loose from expansion and contraction. I can tell you that the outdrive does not have to be removed to attach or replace the bellows, but it's not an easy job and requires patience. Better to let your service guys tackle it.
 
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I agree with JG300da.

If you decide to tackle the bellows yourself, do at the end of the day. The Florida heat IS brutal. Pace yourself and as JG3000DA said, one project at a time. Good luck!
 

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