Hurth V Drive prop shaft removal

[Capt.Will]

Would like to attempt this project myself and see what your opinions and thoughts were on completing this. Any specialty tools needed?

I hit a submerged log on my last run out. So far it seems the only damage was one blade on the prop, but assuming these shafts are original to this 1997 boat. Wanted to have the shafts scanned and checked out.

Does anyone have any instructional video links specific to this task?

 

[Strecker25]

Would like to attempt this project myself and see what your opinions and thoughts were on completing this. Any specialty tools needed?

I hit a submerged log on my last run out. So far it seems the only damage was one blade on the prop, but assuming these shafts are original to this 1997 boat. Wanted to have the shafts scanned and checked out.

Does anyone have any instructional video links specific to this task?

how difficult it is to pull the shaft seems to be completely subjective to the last time it was removed (if ever) because the big nut can seize or the taper is so tight in the coupler it takes a beating to get it out.

You'll pull the prop, pull the big nut on the V-Drive end, and attach a slide hammer to the prop end of the shaft. I've seen most people leave the bolts and nuts that attach the shaft coupler to the trans coupler so its not moving back and forth, and once the shaft lets go of the coupler it will slide back out of the shaft log.

 

[ttmott]

Don't hammer on the shaft or coupler or prop - very hard on the thrust bearings in the gear. Get the correct pullers.

 

[Capt.Will]

Have been sourcing videos about this and most I find are with ski boats, but seems like the same principal. This video presents a coupler removal tool. Check it out.

 

[rumrunner]

It’s been a while… you need to break free and remove the lock nut at the end of the shaft, just forward of the transmission, I believe you can take a piece of wood and place it between the prop and the hull to prevent it from moving. Then you will need to remove the prop. Break loose the nut and jam nut in the same way, block of wood. You need a “special” tool to pull the prop. The Tool locks on the back side of the hub then there is a threaded rod that you tighten to pull the prop, I am sure there are videos of this on the web. Sometimes these props are on tight. Do not hammer on them to get the prop off, use heat. When they “pop” it will scare the hell out of ya! Then you need another special tool, the slap hammer. The hammer will have to have the correct threads to attached to the shaft, then hammer away. I believe the shaft is tapered and there is a key, you will hear the key fall out into the bilge as you pull the shaft. Pretty straight forward with the right tools. If you are going to do one, do both. You should replace your strut bushings as well (another special tool needed) these are press fit in, then you tighten a small jam nut to keep in place. Send both shafts a props to Johnny’s prop (I forget his location...).

The hard part of the job was putting the shafts back in place. I used a small amount of tape to keep the key in position while feeding the shaft back into the transmission. As you know there is little to no room in there…

If apart you should also look at your shaft packing (mine are dripless), I looked, that’s about all I did, really no ideas on how to replace those without taking half the engine a part to get access.

You should also do an engine alignment when the boat is back in the water in the spring. You break loose the coupler and run a feeler gage around it and look for gap, You then need to adjust the engine to close up the gap to a given tolerance, I forget what that is, I am sure someone on this site would know.

It's a lot of work, you need the right tools and someone to help.

 

[rumrunner]

 

[Strecker25]

this is what a tool might look like to pop the coupler off, although I have no idea where you'd buy one. It's probably easy enough to make with some stout steel plate and a set of taps. I have a small steering wheel/flywheel puller that I was going to try but I don't think the bolt pattern is large enough

 

[rumrunner]

Hey Strecker25, That devise would replace the need for a slap hammer. Looks like you have more real estate in your 41, I don't think that would work in a330.

 

[Strecker25]

Hey Strecker25, That devise would replace the need for a slap hammer. Looks like you have more real estate in your 41, I don't think that would work in a330.

Yep, I know the V-Drive is pretty close to the bulkhead in many boats. I do hate the idea of using the trans coupler plate as the leverage point with the slide hammer but it seems to be the only option in many situations

 

[Capt.Will]

It's a lot of work, you need the right tools and someone to help.

Thanks rumrunner. A lot of good words of wisdom there. I may speak with a mechanic first and see what the cost would be and also maybe ask around for the special tools issue with this. If an engine alignment will be required then I am definantly re-thinking this whole thing.

 

[capecodcruiser]

Thanks rumrunner. A lot of good words of wisdom there. I may speak with a mechanic first and see what the cost would be and also maybe ask around for the special tools issue with this. If an engine alignment will be required then I am definantly re-thinking this whole thing.

I don't think he said an alignment is required, but suggested. the engines shift/mounts rust and the alignment could change. More of a preventative measure. Better to know than to ignore. Not a fun job, but better than the results of it being out...

 

[Blueone]

Why pull it?.... just check it with a dial indicator in place if you think it’s bent.

 

[Capt.Will]

Why pull it?.... just check it with a dial indicator in place if you think it’s bent.

I was thinking that as well. Thanks again for the input

 

[Stee6043]

FWIW I had one shaft removed from my boat this year after hitting something submerged. Mine broke, did not bend

Total labor (for a pro) to remove and replace the shaft, coupling, prop and rudder was 13 hours. I watched them remove the prop and rudder and would guess that only 2-3 hours of the total was prop/rudder related. The rest was shaft, coupling and alignment.

I just chalked the whole thing up to "whelp, it's 2020".

 

[Capt.Will]

FWIW I had one shaft removed from my boat this year after hitting something submerged. Mine broke, did not bend

Total labor (for a pro) to remove and replace the shaft, coupling, prop and rudder was 13 hours. I watched them remove the prop and rudder and would guess that only 2-3 hours of the total was prop/rudder related. The rest was shaft, coupling and alignment.

I just chalked the whole thing up to "whelp, it's 2020".

Stee6043, Why did you have the rudder removed? Was it damaged or bent as well? I didn't notice anything from the photos.

 

[Stee6043]

Stee6043, Why did you have the rudder removed? Was it damaged or bent as well? I didn't notice anything from the photos.

Yup, the rudder was also bent slightly. I don't know if it was from the object I hit or the prop slamming into it when the shaft broke. Fun stuff...