Hull Crack in 2004 Sea Ray 200 Sport

[Linsy]

I own a 2004 Sea Ray 200 Sport. I keep it in a valet rack at the lake, and over the course of a few weeks, I had noticed a trickle of water flowing into the engine compartment from the edge of the plug used to close the hole in the deck where the blown-in foam flotation is installed on the port side of the boat. Myself and the marina staff had tried to locate the source of this leak, and this past Sunday, just prior to the last launch of the season, I asked the fork-lift operator to raise the boat for a look at the underside of the hull. There it was, clear as day, a several inch (3-5 inches) crack in the hull, below the waterline, clearly caused by the metal bracket holding the wood upon which the boat rests in the valet rack.

The marina owner accepted full responsibility, and has agreed to do the repair in the spring, as he'd prefer to let the hull have time to dry out, and when his fiberglass repair specialist will have time to devote to the task.

The boat is now home, and being prepared for winter storage in my backyard. My question to everyone here is if this repair is as simple as the good folks at my marina stated, and is there any advice on how I should make certain the structural integrity of my boat is restored?

My boat is spotless. My friends don't know how I'm holding it together, but as I've told them, the mistake was made, the marina owner held himself accountable, and agreed to make the repairs.

My biggest concern is that after reading through many threads about hull damage, I'm not confident I know enough about what needs to be done in order to make sure the repair is done right, and not just done quickly so that it looks good and the marina owner can breath a sigh of relief that I'm back in the water and off his back about the damage.

Should I seek multiple opinions and estimates on the repair work?
Should I contact my insurance carrier?

I have been a loyal customer at this marina since 2004, and the owner was genuinely apologetic for what happened. I'm a firm believer in "trust and verify", so if you all could help me verify what I need to do to make sure the repairs are done right, I'd sincerely appreciate your help.

 

[Bucit]

I wouldn't sweat it as long as it's completed by a professional and your marina stands by his work. Fiberglass repairs are solid and if done properly you shouldn't even be able to tell where the crack was.

 

[fwebster]

This a very simple repair. It is, however, not a cosmetic repair if you are getting water in the boat. A simple gelcoat repair won't fix the problem. Just be sure the glass guy grinds into the fiberglass lay up and rebuilds the area with resin and glass before applying gelcoat.

 

[Linsy]

Thank you for the encouraging posts, and suggested guidance.

Should I be concerned about any damage to the material(s) between the hull and deck?

I've read many posts that suggest there is flotation material behind the damage to my hull, between the hull and deck, though I've been unable to find anything online showing me pictures of what's there. Since I know for certain the hull was breached and not discovered until after the boat had been in the water on at least two occasions, possibly more, and as a result water was most certainly flowing from the breach and then up to just below deck level, and into the engine bilge compartment, is there any reason for concern about getting this water-logged material out, and replaced, before any glass repair work should be done?

Or, as the maintenance team at the marina suggested, is waiting until spring to do the repair work, in theory giving everything time to dry completely, the right course of action?

 

[Bucit]

How much water got into the hull? If it was about to sink your boat than maybe but if only a little got in there time and letting it breathe should do the trick.

 

[Linsy]

Hard to answer that question, other than to say to my knowledge, sinking was not a possibility. There was, however, enough water between hull and deck, to trickle through that "plug" in the vertical sidewall in the engine bilge compartment, which is how I first noticed something was amiss. So, whatever material is between hull and deck on at least the port-side of the keel, aft of mid-ship, got very wet! The boat sat dockside, in the water, overnight on a couple of occasions after I noticed this very slow trickle of water. The valet staff told me they noticed the bilge pump was working, so there was enough water flowing out of that "plug" and into the bilge to trigger the auto-switch.

I guess the real answer is that only time will tell. Right now, sitting on the trailer, there is water seepage from the hull damage which is an obvious indication there is still water behind the hull damage. Since I'm in no rush to get back in the water, we'll do what so many have suggested, and let her sit through the winter, and if there's still water seeping from the crack in the hull when it's time for the repair, we'll let them open it up a bit and put some heat lamps underneath before any glass repairs are done.

My wife is using this as the perfect indication we need to pull the trigger on the 260 Sundeck she fell in-love with at last year's boat show. She might be onto something, eh?!!... First things first...

 

[Bucit]

Sound slike you had a decent amount of water in there for it still to be weeping out. You can let it sit over the winter and worst case call a professional to take moisture readings on the hull to determine if it's dry or still wet inside.

 

[Linsy]

Do you know what material is on the other side of the hull, below the deck? And does that material absorb water?

 

[douglee25]

I think the hardest part of the job is getting your hull to dry out. If the area has foam inside, it doesn't just dry quickly. It can take a long long time. Since time is money for the marina, my guess is that the crack will be repaired in one to two days before the area has time to dry. If possible could you have the marina grind the area out now and let the boat dry all winter?

Doug

 

[Gofirstclass]

You could have the marina grind out the area now and let it sit all winter as douglee suggested, but another idea to consider is rather than just letting it sit, why no add heat blankets to that area of the hull to help wick out the moisture?

If you mention this idea to your marina manager he should be familiar with the heat blanket process and should be glad to step up and do that.

 

[Linsy]

Great suggestion, Doug. The boat was last in the water on Sunday. I cleaned her inside and out for winter storage all day Monday, and as of 4pm Monday, there was still water drops near the hull crack. I'll keep an eye on it the rest of this week, and if there's still water drops come the weekend, I'll make that call to the marina. I'd rather tow it up there, and back, prior to shrink-wrap.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I would think that they may want to drill some drainage holes? A few well placed holes (down low by the keel) and keeping the bow high should definitely do the trick over the winter.

 

[Big Island Lifer]

Hook up a shop vac to the hole in the hull sealed to try to suck out as much as possible.



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