How to "wind up" a replacement Tachometer

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Dance the Tide
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Oct 22, 2017
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Isleton, CA
Boat Info
2002 310DA
Engines
350 MPI w/V-drives
I've seen lots of threads about tach replacement on our boats. The advise usually centers around jotting down the hours on the old tach and disclosing the offset to any future buyers.

For the Sea Ray tach, one would think you could just apply power on the bench for the requisite amount of time to match up the replacement tach with that of the old one. One would be wrong.

The tach requires a pulse from the engine, for the hour meter to begin "spinning". I assume this is to make the hour meters accurate with respect to actual engine run time.

What is needed is a way to fool the tach into believing it is connected to a running engine. This pulse generator does the trick. Some setup is required.

1) run positive and negative wires from the 12V power supply of your choice, to the appropriately marked terminals on both the tach, and the pulse module.

2) Run a wire from the pulse module output to the tach input on the replacement tach.

3) Place the frequency jumper on the module to the 1khz - 10khz position. (see attached image)

4) Crank both adjustment pots to their minimum values. (counter-clockwise). Note: these are 20 turn pots, so keep turning until you hear/feel a faint clicking as you turn the pot.

5) turn on the power supply and adjust the duty cycle pot such that the tack starts registering some value other than zero. AT this point you should see the hour-glass icon in the hours window, start to slowly pulse.

6) sit back and let it wind up to the appropriate number of hours.

Bear in mind that the replacement tach MUST have fewer hours on it than the target hours, as there is no way to wind them backwards. Be very careful not to overrun the target hours for this reason. If you do so, you'll need to run the engine without a tach to let it "catch up" to the overshoot. Also note, that this pulse generator is not particularly accurate. You may have to play with both the frequency and the pulse width adjustment for the tach to begin registering. Here is a picture showing the position of the controls on the module.

81oAeUDmJYL._SL1500_.jpg
 

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I'm dragging up an old post, but I'm struggling to get this to work.

I've got a slightly different circuit, but looks like it works the same.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262841412289

I've tried all 4 jumper positions, and fiddle with both the pots, and used 2 different tachometers and I cannot get it to register any RPM, never mind get it to move the hours forward.

Running off a 12V mains adapter (next test is to try a battery in case the mains is dirty)

Any other ideas?

I've literally just put the wire that you wrap around the spark plug in to the OUT socket. The tachometer has its own battery. Is the tachometer you are using a wrap around type or does it actually physically get connected to the spark plug lead?

Thanks
 
I have since updated to tachs which read the hours directly from the ECU. That said, I'll try to help from memory.

I'm not familiar with tachs that use an inductive pickup (wire wrapped around spark wire). My tachs had a direct connection to the tach output from the engine, so this may be your problem. There may be a way to wire the output of the pulse generator to an automotive ignition coil, so you can wrap the tachs' input wire around the coil's output. I cannot begin to guess if the tach generator is strong enough to switch the ignition coil, though.

Also note that the tach itself, also needs to be wired to 12VDC. The pulse generator itself is not sufficient.
 
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Thanks.
My tachometer is a 2 stroke one with an internal battery. It wraps around a HT lead to take its input. So no external power required.

But it won't register any signal from my pulse generator. Did your old tachometer also wrap around a HT lead?

I've since read that some battery chargers will produce a pulse and increment the hours, but tried 4 of them with no luck.
 
No my tachs did not use an inductive pickup.

One thing to try for your use case would be to wrap your tach in some protective material, place it in your car's engine bay, wrap the pickup around one of your spark plug wires, and go for a drive. You'll have to keep a close eye on it though, since the pulse frequency is higher in a car than for your outboard, it may "wind" up faster than it normally would.
 
Unfortunately, I'm in Europe, and both of my vehicles are diesel. So no HT leads.
I'll maybe try a different pulse generator, althought the one you used is not available. That said, I'm starting to think it wont work like that as mine is designed to pick up by induction rather than direct connection.
 
I like your thinking ... but that sounds like a darwin award waiting to happen....
 

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