How to replace your boat zinc anodes - youtube video

Just did mine but 1/4" socket wrench did not cut it. Need to use 3/8" wrench. My bolts were very tight.
 
so it's unbolt then bolt back on?
Yeah, I know smarta*s. That guy on the video should watch a how to clean your outdrive video. Those twins need some lovin'.
 
Well I give the guy my complements.

If this gives encouragement for someone to pick up a wrench and begin the Do It Yourself maintenance process with an easy task, that’s great.

Eddy is obviously an amateur who is spending his time posting how to videos.

My biggest concern is unlike with a forum like this, when he makes serious mistakes he is sharing this information with others.

The two most serious that observed:

-Using concrete blocks to support a boat, not wood blocks. Concrete block can crack.

-When he winterized the engine he poured fogging solution directly into the throttle body. That’s OK if you have carbs, not OK with fuel injection. You can cause damage to sensors. If you have the more complex intake like the 6.2L V8 merc engine with its tuned ports there is no way you distributed the solution to all 8 cylinders. Finally, with how fast he poured it in, it’s possible to cause hydro-lock and that requires an engine rebuild.

Unfortunately, the professionals have little reason to share their knowhow.

Just a minor observation. Looks like his props are in-phase. As I walk around our marina and look at other boats on blocks in storage I am amazed how many drives have corrosion that are left unchecked, how many anodes are well past their life and how many Bravo III drives have in-phase propellers.

With YouTube, the videos are free and DIY people like me are cheap so that works.

As with any free advice, look for multiple sources, perform due diligence, then pick up a wrench and get turning.

Way to go Eddy!
 
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Boat Test dot com had some video's of how to do it stuff that merc put out on winterizing an 3.0 5.0 and beyond motors on down loadable videos, but they changed that area to a pay membership and you can not see then now so I don't know if they are still there or not.

Best regards
 
Presentation said:
Well I give the guy my complements.

If this gives encouragement for someone to pick up a wrench and begin the Do It Yourself maintenance process with an easy task, that’s great.

Eddy is obviously an armature who is spending his time posting how to videos.

My biggest concern is unlike with a forum like this, when he makes serious mistakes he is sharing this information with others.

The two most serious that observed:

-Using concrete blocks to support a boat, not wood blocks. Concrete block can crack.

-When he winterized the engine he poured fogging solution directly into the throttle body. That’s OK if you have carbs, not OK with fuel injection. You can cause damage to sensors. If you have the more complex intake like the 6.2L V8 merc engine with its tuned ports there is no way you distributed the solution to all 8 cylinders. Finally, with how fast he poured it in, it’s possible to cause hydro-lock and that requires an engine rebuild.

Unfortunately, the professionals have little reason to share their knowhow.

Just a minor observation. Looks like his props are in-phase. As I walk around our marina and look at other boats on blocks in storage I am amazed how many drives have corrosion that are left unchecked, how many anodes are well past their life and how many Bravo III drives have in-phase propellers.

With YouTube, the videos are free and DIY people like me are cheap so that works.

As with any free advice, look for multiple sources, perform due diligence, then pick up a wrench and get turning.

Way to go Eddy!
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more! Take everything with a grain of salt you find online.

However, I liked the fact that he talked about the removable caps, etc. First anode change for me so I learned something. And I like his hair.
 
Presentation said:
Well I give the guy my complements.

If this gives encouragement for someone to pick up a wrench and begin the Do It Yourself maintenance process with an easy task, that’s great.

Eddy is obviously an armature who is spending his time posting how to videos.

My biggest concern is unlike with a forum like this, when he makes serious mistakes he is sharing this information with others.

The two most serious that observed:

-Using concrete blocks to support a boat, not wood blocks. Concrete block can crack.

-When he winterized the engine he poured fogging solution directly into the throttle body. That’s OK if you have carbs, not OK with fuel injection. You can cause damage to sensors. If you have the more complex intake like the 6.2L V8 merc engine with its tuned ports there is no way you distributed the solution to all 8 cylinders. Finally, with how fast he poured it in, it’s possible to cause hydro-lock and that requires an engine rebuild.

Unfortunately, the professionals have little reason to share their knowhow.

Just a minor observation. Looks like his props are in-phase. As I walk around our marina and look at other boats on blocks in storage I am amazed how many drives have corrosion that are left unchecked, how many anodes are well past their life and how many Bravo III drives have in-phase propellers.

With YouTube, the videos are free and DIY people like me are cheap so that works.

As with any free advice, look for multiple sources, perform due diligence, then pick up a wrench and get turning.

Way to go Eddy!
Click to expand...
Presentation - You said "his props are in-phase". I have never heard that term. What does it mean?
 
r.j.dawg said:
Presentation - You said "his props are in-phase". I have never heard that term. What does it mean?
Click to expand...



sfergson727 said:
On BIII props, when you install them, the blades from the forward prop and the rear prop should not be aligned, but offset. When viewed from the rear, there should be no open spaces, or in other words, you should see all the blades at once, none over-lapping. It's very rare to see the blades lined up like the guy's in the video, unless he manually turned them by hand to line them up, or they are installed incorrectly. (I'm betting on the latter)

Regardless, when the blade of the forward prop is vertical, the blade of the rear prop should not be lining up with it, that's what indicates his props are in phase and installed incorrectly.
Click to expand...

I agree with Scott.

This is so simple yet difficult to explain.

I wish I had a better photo, but here goes:

This is a photo of a Bravo III drive and its two counter rotating propellers.

Directly above the propellers is the cavitation plate.

004.jpg



The propellers should be installed so no two blades are straight up or at their closest point to the cavitation plate at the same time.

To do this, have the first propeller tuned so it’s in between two blades then slide the second propeller on so one blade is straight up.
Now manually spin them to test it out. You will notice that no two blades ever pass under the cavitation plate at the same time.

003.jpg

The photo shows a correctly installed out of phase propeller set. Notice in this photo the drive is missing the center propeller anode. You know it should have one because the drive has two cavitation plate anodes. This is insignificant if the person is a trailer boater but important of the person keeps the boat in a slip.


I consider this a minor error, not a major error. Some mechanics swear by this out of phase installation for smoother operation, faster acceleration, better and smoother cornering and less stress on the internal parts of the drive yet other people feel this does nothing. In my opinion, it costs me nothing to do it correct so why not do it correct?
 
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Great explanation from you both. Thank you very much. Man, not a day goes by that I don't learn something from this forum.
 
what a great post.Just the thing I need now anode advice.I bought new ones for my B3 last week.Heres my questions my front lower anode doesn't fit flush on lower unit. The one that goes directly above last prop came with an Allen head bolt.It sticks down it doesn't go in flush like my old anode did.Last the new ones on the trim tabs came with two disc per trim tab.My old anodes on trim tabs only had single disc on the top of tabs.I'm not sure about putting them on the bottom of tabs.My boat is fresh water only.These are all magnesum anodes.
 
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