How to re-seal the rub rail '97 240 Sundancer

[KHE]

My wife and I were out in our '97 240 Sundancer yesterday. The lake Michigan forecast was NE winds, waves 1 foot or less. When we started out, the wind was from the NE and it was an offshore wind so the lake was calm.

We stopped for a few minutes and the wind changed to the NNW and began to pick up. The waves built to 4' with an occasional 5' wave. When we got to Muskegon, I noticed the carpet in the cabin on the port side had wet spots on it and it was right at the height of the rub rail ad forward of the front porthole.

I'm fairly certain I need to re-seal the rub rail but have never taken one apart before. It is a plastic extrusion with a stainless steel strip that is embedded in the plastic extrusion and held in place by screws. Has anyone re-sealed the rub rail on their Sundancer and what is the procedure? Is it as simple as removing the screws and the stainless strip and sealing the joint where the hull meets the upper portion of the boat, then sealing the screws upon re-assembly?

 

[R-and-R]

I've never actually done the job, but I've seen other threads here that discuss it.
Basically, yes, you're on the right track.
It is a "shoebox" joint, meaning the top deck has a lip that overlaps the lower hull.
Be sure to clean out old gunk before sealing.

 

[northern]

Took 3 of us 16 hours to do. Unscrew the SS cover then the black hard rubber then use a Banana knife to gouge out the sealant. Wipe area down with solvent that does not leave residue. Replace sealant with marine grade sealant. Do not use silicone. Put it all back together with new screws. Let sit for 48 hours then use the boat. If you have bad joints or back hirer some one to do it.

 

[KHE]

Thanks for the reply.

How much of a gap between the hull and the inner shell of the boat will I be dealing with? 1/8", 1/4"? What type of marine sealant should be used? 3M 4200? Is it necessary to completely remove the old sealant or just the loose areas?