how to do a good small caulk joint

[Odyssey]

I removed 3 hatch doors and frames on my boat because the paint on the frame was bubbling and chipping off (just looked terrible). After getting them back from the painter, I put them in place to see how they would fit before screwing them in or putting on any caulking.

The "fit" of the frame varied between a good tight joint to a 3/16" gap. I would need to caulk the whole frame to make it look decent.

My skill at putting in a good quality caulk joint has been lacking. I usually put on too much caulk and after installing the thing, it squeezes out all over the place. Then I try to wipe it clean and end up making a big mess. This time I decided to try something different.

I went to West Marine and bought 2 plastic syringes with graduating plastic "needles" (much smaller than the tip on a tube of caulk). I cut the needle to a very small hole and filled the tube with caulk (3M 4200 fast cure). I then put a modest bead of caulk on the inside of the hatch frame and screwed them in place. I didn't get the usual excess oozing of caulk around the frame this time.

After that, I used the syringe to put on a very small joint around the frame edge. At the places where there was a gap, I used the syringe to inject caulk all the way back into the gap leaving just the right amount of caulk at the edge. Using my finger, I "drew" the joint clean. Since it was a small amount of caulk in place, it was a clean joint. It worked great!!!!

I don't know if others have already written about this or if it is common knowledge but for those who don't know (like me), this really works.

Randy

 

[rondds]

Randy
I like your technique. I've never caulked anything on the boat but I am caulking impaired. When I caulk a tub or toilet, I'll mask everything off on both sides of the line,then run a thin bead in, wipe it with my finger and let things partially set. Then I pull the masking tape off while the caulk is still tacky but not set. Makes a nice line with no schmearing.

 

[Odyssey]

I've done that too but in the case of the hatches frames, I couldn't figure out exactly where to put the tape to ensure a good small joint. Plus, the hatch frames have rounded corners and tape didn't work very well there.

 

[Four Suns]

Masking tape is your friend.

and I really thought the "title" of this thread was going to be about something else.

 

[Odyssey]

and I really thought the "title" of this thread was going to be about something else.

I thought I would get a better response if I titled it like that.

RB

 

[rondds]

Do seagulls smoke caulk joints? ;-)

I was thinking the same thing - how do you mask off when you don't know how far the stuff is going to smoosh out? I had the same issue when I had to bed a few bowrail stantions. I put plenty of sealer down and had a lot of cleaning to do afterwards.

 

[sr330daguy]

As suggested tape the joint.Apply the caulk, then spray the area with water,then run a wet finger ,spoon, or corner of a credit card over the caulked joint.

 

[Four Suns]

That's also good advice for a first date.

 

[Odyssey]

I was thinking the same thing - how do you mask off when you don't know how far the stuff is going to smoosh out? I had the same issue when I had to bed a few bowrail stantions. I put plenty of sealer down and had a lot of cleaning to do afterwards.

The caulk joint at the edge of the hatch is maybe 1/16". There is no way to tape that off before installing the hatch (I tried to do that first). Even if you could, the time required to tape it is a waste when you can easily caulk the joint with the syringe without taping.

Randy

 

[Carver370]

I recently had the doors on my aft deck repainted. When I went to install them I made a dry run to see how it would fit and while it was in place I tape around the edges of it with a small gap in between the door and the mating surface.

I then removed the door with the tape still intact on the door and the framework and laid my bead down. Installed the door, some oozed out but only on the tape. I then wiped my finger along the newly caulked joint after dipping it in some water for a smooth joint and removed the tape.

Done. No excess squeez out on the surface and a nice clean edge.

 

[tobnpr]

You might be referring to these?
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|12212|309344&id=12551

They're made for injecting epoxy resin, but as you found out- they're great for this purpose.

I posted a while back about using them ( I can't take credit for it either- having read about it online) to caulk my rubrail. Some clear Life Seal, and a very tiny bead
(under 1/8")- no masking necessary; and you can barely even see the caulk joint. I also ran a very thin bead around all my flush mounted electronics. You can't beat them when you're not trying to fill a big gap, and just need a very thin bead.

 

[Odyssey]

Yep, that's what I used. I'm going back to get a few more. I bet they have a number of good uses.

Sorry I didn't see your previous post, this is a great thing.

RB

 

[eshasek]

I removed 3 hatch doors and frames on my boat because the paint on the frame was bubbling and chipping off (just looked terrible)...

Thanks for reminding me to do this. I have been needing to do this for three hatch frames for a while now and just need to do it. I was considering getting them powder coated instead of painted. How did you decide what you wanted to do to fix the chipped off paint? Has anyone used powder coating instead? I am trying to only have to do this once.

Thanks.

 

[Odyssey]

Thanks for reminding me to do this. I have been needing to do this for three hatch frames for a while now and just need to do it. I was considering getting them powder coated instead of painted. How did you decide what you wanted to do to fix the chipped off paint? Has anyone used powder coating instead? I am trying to only have to do this once.

Thanks.

I have had poor results with powder coating on other pieces so I asked the painter to use AwlGrip paint. I've heard great things about that product.

RB

 

[beerman]

Any home improvement stores in the Caulk section have small plastic tools that are used for removing extra caulk and making it look nice. They usually cost a couple bucks and work great.