How to determine proper trailer

E

estebanj

New Member
Apr 2, 2007
590
South Florida
Boat Info
260 Sundancer
Engines
350 Merc
2007 260 Sundancer with 350/B3

I may have access to a used trailer at a very good price. I don't know the specs yet, but that is what leads me to this post. How do I know what specs are correct for my size boat? How do you determine a match between boat and trailer?

Thanks,

Esteban
 
When my new Loadmaster comes next week Sea Ray of Cincinnati is going to jack my boat from the stands and lower it onto the trailer for the first time to be sure that the bunks were set right at fabrication. Get all of your boat specs.. dry weight + fluids and gear estimates, try to get as much info from thecurrent owner as to axel loads ect, jack capacity, winch capacity ect and start figuring. My first call might be to the SR dealer for guidance, but Cincy SR is very good to work with
 
Dan, do you know the capacity of the axles they are putting on your trailer? I have 3 6,000# axles under mine and the trailer is only rated at 12,700. I'm still trying to figure out how they came up with that number???
 
The axle ratings are just part of the equation. The strength of the frame is another big factor. Depending on the type of material used in the frame that can lower your wt carrying capacity of the trailer. The hitch is another limiting factor. If the coupler is not rated at more than 12K that is all the trailer can be rated for.

DOT is another concern. In some states and NC is one of them if you go too heavy on a trailer you must upgrade your drivers license and trailer tag. You also become subject to more rigorous inspection by DOT. You can be towing empty but have a rating plate that says you can tow heavy and you are still subject to inspections etc if stopped.
 
Start with the dry weight of your boat. Add fuel, water and your best guess on the weight of any upgrades (Extra battery, A/C, hot water, upgraded motor/outdrive over base, anchor etc.,). Next add your best guess for the "stuff" you will take with you when you go boating(food, towels, ice, outboard for dinghy, dinghy, etc.). The whole point is to get your best estimate of your boat loaded down and ready to go. When you have that estimate add a cushion of 1,000 lbs or so and that is the weight your trailer should be able to handle. Your boat DRY weight is available through the specs on the Sea Ray website.

The trailer will have a VIN # and capacity plate from the manufacturer. That capacity should be greater than your estimate above allowing sufficient reserve capacity. Assuming it's adjustable, you should be able to move the bunks/rollers to adjust it to your boat. Also check to make sure it's long enough to handle the 260 you are considering. You can measure from the bow stop to the end of the bunks and compare that to your 260. Check to see how much the bunks can move if you need to adjust them fore and aft as well as side to side. Some bow stops are adjustable and can be moved forward or backwards to get the tongue loading right as well.
 
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Don't forget about tires and brakes. Make sure the tires are rated for the correct weight. This information is usually on the sidewall of the tire. Make sure the brakes work and that you will be happy with the type of braking system the trailer has on it. There are many different types out there and you darn sure don't want that trailer driving you.:wow:
 
RiverRat said:
Dan, do you know the capacity of the axles they are putting on your trailer? I have 3 6,000# axles under mine and the trailer is only rated at 12,700. I'm still trying to figure out how they came up with that number???
Click to expand...

not sure either, but I have 3 x 6000lbs axels with 16002lbs GVWR and a net carry capacity of 13,727lbs....
 
here is the info Loadmaster used for my trailer

Daniel,
Thank you for your inquiry concerning a trailer quote for your Sea Ray 280 DA. We can actually build either a heavy duty tandem axle or triaxle trailer for your boat. It depends on your wants or if you plan on towing extra weight in your boat. Here are the factors we take into account to determine the correct trailer.

Your length is 28'6". However, it is 31' 1" with swim and pulpit. For trailer purposes, we use 30' (transom to bow pulpit) as the length of the boat. For carry capacity:

Boat dry weight with standard I/O engine 8,000lbs
batteries/anchors/buoys, etc. 300lbs
100 gal fuel @ 6.19lb/gal 619lbs
80 gal water/waste @8lb/gal 640lbs
Subtotal 9,559lbs

This does include full fuel, water, waste, but doesn't take into account cabin or deck gear, generator (if applicable), etc. A heavy duty tandem can carry up to 10,673lbs and sells for $5,270. The triaxle can carry up to 13,727lbs. and sells for $5815. Either trailer would be built specific to your boat as far as axle, bunk placement, taking water intakes, etc. into account. You choose the color scheme and can personalize either trailer with options, etc.
I've attached a spec. sheet on both trailers along with a couple of photos. Once you review this information, please feel free to call 1-800-258-6115 or e-mail loadmaster@cros.net for more information, questions, etc. Again, thank you for your interest in our trailers.


Diane D. Straw
Co-owner
 
Dan, Did you get brakes on all three axles?
 
To answer RiverRat's question; trailer axles are rated independently of the vehicle. Mounting position and tire/wheel geometry can negatively effect the rating. Additionally, over rating the axles provides a safety margin to compensate for things like the effects of corrosion on the axle, overloading, and unexpected impact loads (potholes etc).

As for the rest of the things that have been mentioned, these are all important as the boat has to fit on the trailer. But what is more important is how the weight of the boat is distributed on the trailer, and the weight of the two is distributed to the towing vehicle. A good starting point would be to compare a trailer configuration that is recommended for your boat in your state, against the used trailer. Pay attention to the length of the trailer, the length between the trailer hitch and the center of the axle suspension, and the location of the boat with respect to the axle location. If the used trailer dimensions match the recommended trailer, it may work.
 
RiverRat said:
Dan, Did you get brakes on all three axles?
Click to expand...

Yes, here are the specs

Mig-welded 8" channel steel construction
All-wheel 12" electric drum brakes
15" Load range "D" goodyear radials chrome wheels
adjustable treated lumber, routed edges, marine carpeted bunks
Structural fenders w/non skid
7000lbs drop-leg tongue jack
adjustable bow stop 6000lbs 2 speed manual winch
20,000lbs locking coupler
two safety cables. break-away system w/built in battery charger
epoxy primer, PPG polyurethane paint clear coated
seales submersible LED lights all electric connections shronk-wrapped
 
Henry Boyd said:
To answer RiverRat's question; trailer axles are rated independently of the vehicle. Mounting position and tire/wheel geometry can negatively effect the rating. Additionally, over rating the axles provides a safety margin to compensate for things like the effects of corrosion on the axle, overloading, and unexpected impact loads (potholes etc).

As for the rest of the things that have been mentioned, these are all important as the boat has to fit on the trailer. But what is more important is how the weight of the boat is distributed on the trailer, and the weight of the two is distributed to the towing vehicle. A good starting point would be to compare a trailer configuration that is recommended for your boat in your state, against the used trailer. Pay attention to the length of the trailer, the length between the trailer hitch and the center of the axle suspension, and the location of the boat with respect to the axle location. If the used trailer dimensions match the recommended trailer, it may work.
Click to expand...

and all of those varriables is exactally what lead me to purchase a new trailer built and jigged for my boat.. I had them add the sling pockets and the bow stop/winch comes un-attached. Once I take delivery of the trailer I will be taking it to Sea Ray of cincinnati where it will be lowered on to the trailer for the first time to assure that the bunks have been placed properly. Once the proper set-up is confirmed and there is no conflict with my thru-hull fittings, the bow stop will be placed and off I go....
 
HI !
Something else about a dual vs tri axle trailer is the handling
when trying to maneuver tight turns going forwards or backwards.
Especially backwards. The tri-axle tends to stay in a straight line
when going backwards, more so than a dual axle. I've seen the tires
on tri-axles do some scary things on the rims in real tight turns. Plan WAY AHEAD.
A song comes to mind called "Give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around !"
 
I have had two tri-axle boat trailers. I never had any trouble backing the trailer, it will go wherever you make it go. If you put on alot of miles(lots of corners) you may see faster tire wear on the rear tires. The only difference I see in tailers is how long they are. On that subject I'd rather back a 40-50 footer than my little utility trailer.
 
Quad axle trailers are becoming more common out here. Even those will turn as tight as you make them. You must have tires with strong sidewalls and keep the psi up or the beads can breake loose in very sharp corners.

I have two triple axle trailers that I manuever very tightly and have not had problems.
 
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