How many TV locations actually wired for dual voltage

[Pseudomind]

Changing Salon TV? Any locations actually wired for dual voltage

I guess I am referring to some of the larger Sundancers, at least the ones which came with factory installed television. I did some loooking this weekend and both of my televisions, are actually connected to AC both are flat panels, one has a DVD player 19". The one in the galley 15" is a 12VDC TV, but it gets it's power from AC then thru a power brick dropping and converting it to 12 VDC. There is not even an AC connector on it. So I guess if I want to use it from a 12 volt souce I will have to get a cigarette adapter plug in cable. I am thinking it would be a pretty big chore to run a DC connection over from the panel on the starboard side to the galley side on the port.

I am looking a putting a 22" in the galley w/DVD on a swingout arm and securing it while under way with a bungee or strap and maybe adding a slightly larger in the forward stateroom also with DVD.

So why am I stating all of this for some reason, I had some notion that the televisions would operate off of 12 DC or AC. That they would automatically switch to whatever operating voltage was applied.

Well now I know :huh:

 

[Pseudomind]

So what do you think I think I can live with it I believe. The slight over hang I do feel will be that much, and I am going to put a cover over the front for when underway. I plan on using that thin light weight Office Depot type poster board they sell for use on easels.

I am planing on using one of these swivel mounts, and securing with a bungee or something similar for travel. I will be making an offset plate for the mount, (Possibly making, may not be needed).

I will then be able to use the space behind the TV for stowage. I will place a piece of expanded metal to the rear so the refrigerator can still vent.

I plan on putting a similar 26 inch fat panel in the forward stateroom. I have a 19 or 22 inch w/DVD there now. I am thinking of putting an antenna connection at the helm for it.

TV Mount

I have found this TV which also has a DVD player from HHGreg which I believe will suit me. (I know it is not what Hampton is looking for, but I think it will do for my use :thumbsup

Television

Television measurements I will be removing the base unit
Width w/ base 21-1/8"
Height w/ base 15-19/32"
Depth w/ base 7-59/64"
Width TV only 21-1/8"
Height TV only 14-7/16"
Depth TV only 2-5/8"

I made a two inch deep box and a 3 inch deep to see how it would look

The boxes are 23 x 14.5 inches

Current Salon TV

Two inch thickness (Proposed TV Only depth is 2-5/8 inch, 21-1/8 inches wide, by 14-7/16 high)

Another two inch view

Three inch thickness

Another Three inch view

Front view without TV currently

:huh:

 

[Pseudomind]

With as much action as usually goes on here, I would have though someone would of had some input.

Has anyone else done this TV change? TTT :huh:

 

[Southpaw II]

Don't forget clearance for the DVD if it enters the TV from the top.

 

[Pseudomind]

Come from the left

See this link

http://www.hhgregg.com/ProductDetail.asp?SID=n&ProductID=23649&BrandStore=All#pageClick on view larger image once there

 

[Hampton]

I didn't post to this when I first saw it because one of us is confused, and I'm not sure it's you. I don't know of any dual power wiring on any of the Sea Rays. All LCD screens actually run on DC power. Most LCD TVs use 110 AC for power. Some people say you can cut the power box out of the line and direct wire them. I haven't tried that. Is that what your "DC" tv is?

I can't see your pics here at work, but I will say that I plan to replace our 15" galley TV with a 19" that will not recess into the space provided. Could your DC TV already be a replacement?

 

[Pseudomind]

I didn't post to this when I first saw it because one of us is confused, and I'm not sure it's you. I don't know of any dual power wiring on any of the Sea Rays. All LCD screens actually run on DC power. Most LCD TVs use 110 AC for power. Some people say you can cut the power box out of the line and direct wire them. I haven't tried that. Is that what your "DC" TV is?

I can't see your pics here at work, but I will say that I plan to replace our 15" galley TV with a 19" that will not recess into the space provided. Could your DC TV already be a replacement?

No the TVs I have are actually powered by 110 AC, but the 15 inch salon TV is actually 12 VDC. Power comes from 110 AC into a small converter box then plugged into the 12 DC jack on the TV. So I am guessing a common DC cigarette lighter cable with the right connector on it would allow me to power the 15 inch in the cockpit if I wanted to use there.

Before I got into thinking about changing my TVs out, I did that old "Assume" word. I thought the TVs were naturally 12 VDC models so that if one was on the hook somewhere without the generator running they could still watch TV. Well the assume word got me! I have since traced them out and they are 110 AC powered, plugged into a typical wall jack like in one's home. I have considered doing TVs which are 12 VDC, but they are more expensive, so I believe I will just keep the 15 inch stowed on board with a longer cigarette type cord for it or just buy a cigarette lighter 12 vDC to AC converter. And then just replace the two with a 22 inch with DVD (salon) and a 26 inch in the forward berth.

I apologise if I mislead anyone, as at the time I did not know. I figured perhaps someone who was more knowledgeable would chime in and correct me where I was wrong.
One could run new wiring to the salon and berth off of their 12 VDC circuit and purchase 12 VDC TV systems, but I think I will probably do this first.

Power Bright 400-watt 12-volt DC to AC Power Inverter Plugs into a cigarette lighter, I may even get a smaller wattage one.

I actually doubt I will watch that much TV, even on the hook without a generator running. I typically like to tune in and catch the news and weather before turning in.
I have no children to contend with so...:huh:

 

[mawyatt]

All TVs are DC powered internally that may or maynot be 12 volts. Like your 15" some have an external 120VAC to DC conversion block or wall warts and the actual connection to the TV is a DC plug (usually small TVs), others (usually larger TVs) have the 120AC to DC conversion inside the TV and only have a AC power connection. In the case of the smaller TVs with DC plugs and 120AC to DC conversion blocks if the TV power input is 12VDC compatible you could directly wire to the boat's DC power with the proper in-line fuse. Your solution of a 12VDC to 120VAC inverter should work for the 120VAC input TVs, I would make sure you don't generate any TV and/or radio interference with the inverter.

I am considering installing a seperate battery (dual golf types) and power inverter/charger (1800W) to power all the AC stuff on the boat except the Air Conditioner and water heater. These new inverter/chargers will automatically switch over from charge to inverting when the 120VAC source is removed. This will work and create 120VAC when unplugged from the dock power or the genset is off, and will charge the batteries when AC power is available. I plan on tackling this later after I have installed a Sat TV system, HD radar and fish finder. Now when we are out I must run the genset when 120VAC is needed, it has a sound shield but is somewhat noisy with the blower running.

 

[Pseudomind]

I have the TV iDVD combo nstalled still need to put a piece of expanded metal across the rear so nothing can fall behind refrigerator but air can circulate.

I ordered this mutli articulating mount, so I could center the TV after opening to stow items behind it. The mount supports 66 pounds, and was less then $14.00 not inculding shipping, around $22.00 with UPS. Took a week from California to Florida.

:thumbsup:

 

[hack4alivin]

Looks good!... but what in the hell are you watching there?:grin:

 

[Jack F]

Looks good!... but what in the hell are you watching there?:grin:

More like what's watching you :grin:

 

[katricol]

It looks good,but that mount is only as strong as what it's attached to. I can't tell from the pic....ric

 

[Hampton]

I thought the TVs were naturally 12 VDC models so that if one was on the hook somewhere without the generator running they could still watch TV. Well the assume word got me! I have since traced them out and they are 110 AC powered, plugged into a typical wall jack like in one's home.
Power Bright 400-watt 12-volt DC to AC Power Inverter Plugs into a cigarette lighter, I may even get a smaller wattage one.

I was right! You can't imagine how many times I started to reply to this post but then thought about all of the negative press I would receive if I was wrong - red balls...

Have you read the reviews on that particular inverter? Loud, burning smells, cheaply made, melted cig plug recepticle...

 

[Pseudomind]

Looks good!... but what in the hell are you watching there?:grin:

It was a Discovery or History channel type show about monitor lizards.

 

[spikedaddy99]

How stable is that mount/TV with the boat moving in "rough" seas? Do you know if the TV is bouncing around at all? I have a TV on a similiar mount in my office, and the stability is OK, but I can still wiggle it some, and that's on a wall, not a bouncing boat.

Mike

 

[Pseudomind]

How stable is that mount/TV with the boat moving in "rough" seas? Do you know if the TV is bouncing around at all? I have a TV on a similiar mount in my office, and the stability is OK, but I can still wiggle it some, and that's on a wall, not a bouncing boat.

Mike

That is one of the reason for the bungee, the other is I did not want to try and fasten something to the outside of my exterior Cherry wood finish. I am sure there are probably dozens of different ways to mount a TV, depending on what one wants to spend. I am thinking (and will probably do this) of attaching a second bungee on the left side just as an added precautionary measure.

As it currently is, the stand supports the TV quite well when one is docked, even with the TV pulled out. The problem is if you want to install some type of latching mechanism, where do you put it and still have outside access to unlatch?

The bungee is inexpensive and maintains a constant rearward pulling action, yet with not a large amount of effort, one can grasp the TV and pull it forward enough to reach a hand up behind the TV to disconnect the bungee(s) for access for the additional stowage area.

I image if one has the resources, they could come in from under the light switch panel with some type of mechanical operated latch system (cut some holes into the Cherry panel and have some type of cover made for the access hole), and have the TV mounted on a slide out panel with "L" shaped TV support bracket and accomplish the same thing.:huh:

The bungee maintains a constant rearward pulling action, so without drilling holes into the cherry wood for a latch.

What ideas do others have?

This route has cost me around $30.00 total, the TV weights around 22 pounds and the mount is rated for 66 pounds. The mount is basically there to operate as a hinge for stowage access, If I was not concerend about also having additional stowage area, I would have just mounted it in a permanent position tighter then "Dick's hatband."

:thumbsup:

 

[Pseudomind]

I finally have the TV mounting finished. I am going to store light weight items,maybe extra paper goods, get me a Glad Tall storage plastic container or two and put spare bulbs, fuses, wire ties, etc into them. Maybe store bags of chips, cheez-its, paper towels, napkins, etc.

The friction holding clips work pretty good, since I will be keeping spare items I do not need to open it up all that often. If these clips come loose then I am going to mount a 19 " x 2" aluminum strip to the TV mount and bolt the clips to it.

The double sided tape which came with the mounts did not work so I obtained some other brand which appears to be working much better.

I mounted two boards painted black to the inside of the old opening, so I could have a permanent down angle and also not mess up the Cherry wood. If it has to come off for some reason, just remove the two boards, fill in a few small holes and repaint black.

:thumbsup: