How frequently do you get your engine/drive serviced?

[hyperzap]

Heya,

Soon to be newbie boat-owner here.

I'm wondering if anyone has any good 'rule of thumb' suggestions for a maintenance schedule - (every X hours or Y months do Z).

What I have so far (for a boat slipped in salt-water):
- Every 15 months to a few years haul-out and do a bottom paint.
- Every 4-6 months (depending on depletion) get your zincs changed
- Every trip check your oil, fuel & batteries

What else? In particular, what does servicing the engine & outdrive look like?

Thanks!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Your first two items will depend on many factors. Anode replacement timeframe, especially, can be much longer. It's better to base it on wear, than time. When they're about half-way gone, replace.

Engine oil change and drive fluid change is typically once a year.

 

[sbw1]

You should have owner manuals for your engines, transmissions, generator and other mechanical equipment. Read your manuals and follow those recommendations. They are not “rules of thumb”. They are gospel.

 

[Skybolt]

If your in the water year round, then pull in spring and have bottom power washed, possibly need to do bottom every year. When the boat is pulled for that, change zincs regardless of condition. Change drive oil yearly period, doing so will give tell tales of possible seal damage. Change the water pump (if there is one) in drive yearly. End of season change the oil, this is a big one, contaminates sitting in the engine that is not running will damage things over time. Change fuel filters yearly at a minimum.

If you need to change your zincs in 4 months then there is another problem that needs to be addressed.

 

[boatman37]

If you have a Bravo 3 I'd say it may be a good idea to get a closed cooling system if in salt water. Others with more salt water experience can speak up but that's my take.

 

[Juliery]

If you have a Bravo 3 I'd say it may be a good idea to get a closed cooling system if in salt water. Others with more salt water experience can speak up but that's my take.

Yes, any inboard / sterndrive running in salt needs a full, closed cooling system. Otherwise, just throw thousand dollar bills into the fire. Maintenance is critical to your boating happiness. Do it according to the manufacturers recommendations without fail, using top quality materials. Pull your boat every year. Don't just check the drive oil, pull the drive, check gimbal, U-joint, and seals, grease, replace and then change the oil. Pull the prop, too and grease the splines. Constantly check all hoses, clamps, belts, electrical connections, battery terminals, as well as fluids. Never ignore winterizing and do it early. Anodes were mentioned but also change internal zincs in the heat exchanger. Get a 4 stage marine charger and leave it connected when possible. Everything depends on good batteries. Every 5 years change coolant and fully inspect manifolds and risers. There's more, of course...
New boaters should go through all of this with a good mechanic the first time, learning how to do it yourself. Going cheap on your boat is the most expensive thing, next to divorce.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Agreed on the outdrives in salt water comments. This would not be my first configuration choice but some seem ok with it.

 

[Juliery]

Agreed on the outdrives in salt water comments. This would not be my first configuration choice but some seem ok with it.

Sterndrives definitely require more maintenance. I do my own so not an expensive proposition. The Bravo 2 has been great. I do the work every year - maybe 3 hours plus the cost of zincs, gear lube and a bit of extreme pressure grease. But the vee drives and shaft drives also need maintenance. Like everything else, many problems can arise because of poor or no maintenance.

 

[mrsrobinson]

My comment was more around leaving a boat with outdrives in (the) salt water year round.

 

[Pirate Lady]

My comment was more around leaving a boat with outdrives in (the) salt water year round.

I am not in true salt water in the northern Chesapeake. I haul mine for land storage every winter because every good marine mechanic I trust has said don’t leave an i/o in water over winter. At my marina and one next door the only boats left in water have straight shaft inboards.
Plus I am anal about anodes. Change every winter and short haul in July to change and power wash bottom.

 

[hyperzap]

Thanks all for the information! Rest assured I intend to do proper maintenance.

I'll note that because I live in the SW of the US I don't really have a winter season - much simpler to keep the boat in the water all year round.

Combining what everyone has said so far, this is my plan:
- Yearly haul-out to have engine & outdrive serviced by a mechanic (I would love to do more myself but I'm a bit inexperienced - maybe for now I should just burn money and get a mechanic for anything more than the simple)
- Every other year or so get bottom paint done
- Zinc replacement whenever they are halfway gone (expecting about 5-6 months, though Im in a marina so maybe it will depete faster?)
- Flush out the cooling lines everytime i get back to dock (I wish it was a closed loop heat exchanger but its not - it might be worth looking into that as an upgrade)
- Religiously connect to shore power at the dock to keep batteries topped up
- Acquire the manuals and read them

 

[mrsrobinson]

YouTube is your friend Watch videos on how to service your outdrives, replace zincs, etc. It's not too difficult to do yourself. Invest in a power washer and wash the bottom yourself on a haul out. Invest in a full system cooling upgrade. I did this on my twin 7.4s for peace of mind. If yours has the MerCathode system makes sure it's tested and working.

I'd haul out at least semi-annualy to check the drives/trip tabs for corrosion, growth, etc.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Invest in a power washer and wash the bottom yourself on a haul out.

Might be different in parts of this country but around here whether it’s a short haul summer or a full winter storage, a power wash is included in the price.
Zap - a short haul is where they lift the boat in the sling / forklift, and just allow you to quickly change the anodes or touch up bottom paint, change a prop, etc. no blocking, usually an hour or two at most.

 

[Pirate Lady]

All this boat talk I miss mine already. Gonna be a long winter.

 

[hyperzap]

Im lucky in that the nearby mechanic (next door to the yard) has their own tractor + trailer, so for simple things its cheaper to haul-out that way than the big crane the yard has.

 

[Skybolt]

... I'll note that because I live in the SW of the US I don't really have a winter season - much simpler to keep the boat in the water all year round. ...

The "don't leave in the water all year" is for outdrives, because of the bellows and should that freeze your boat could sink if the rubber tears. So if your in a non freezing area, then you should be good. Also if your in an area that has heavy zebra mussels then you might need to pull twice a year to clean them off of the bellows etc. They are really sharp and cut the rubber quickly.

 

[mrsrobinson]

The "don't leave in the water all year" is for outdrives, because of the bellows and should that freeze your boat could sink if the rubber tears. So if your in a non freezing area, then you should be good. Also if your in an area that has heavy zebra mussels then you might need to pull twice a year to clean them off of the bellows etc. They are really sharp and cut the rubber quickly.

This!

I dunno, I just don't like the idea of leaving outdrives in the water 24 X 7 X 365.

 

[Skybolt]

This!

I dunno, I just don't like the idea of leaving outdrives in the water 24 X 7 X 365.

Agreed if they are just going to sit, but if used a couple of times a month (very least) then it's ok. You have to keep the rubber from hardening up by using it. Trim up down, shift cable flexing etc. then your fine. But no more then 365 before inspecting.

Also, inspect the transom where the drive attaches from the inside to see if there are any water leaks. Big tell tale for what might go wrong. Keep the bilge dry and check for water every time at boat. That will help a lot, see water find where it's coming from and fix if not rain water.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Zap,
My take… my outdrive is underwater 8 months unseen. I’ll pull boat every winter to have a pro mechanic inspect it. Some guys can do themselves, good they can do. Not me. I want a pro to inspect. The few bucks is worth it, why, cause if the bitch sinks, and the insurance company has questions, I can say, see that certified mechanic, he said it was good, pay me.
PS Sky knows. If you don’t, get a mechanic you trust.

 

[hyperzap]

Thanks all for the guidance! I'm with @Pirate Lady on getting a pro mechanic - maybe in a few years I will have more confidence doing some maintenance myself, but for now I think burning some money each year is a good way to go for peace of mind.