how cold should air conditioner get

Sizing charts are useless on a boat. Glass ( windows ) no insulation between deck and cabin, Pulling air from uncondioned spaces all works against you. U cant oversize a boat a/c, Electrical requirements will stop u way before anything else.
( yes i know this will cause another u wont dehumidify thread .. NOT true in this instance )
Sorry about the other post guys .. bad day yesterday. NY's weather sux.

Rob
 
I was looking at cleaning the ac filter. Do you have to remove the whole access wall in the cabin berth? I can't seem to get the return air grill off.
 
jim_m5 said:
I was looking at cleaning the ac filter. Do you have to remove the whole access wall in the cabin berth? I can't seem to get the return air grill off.
Click to expand...

Can you lift the cushions and open an access panel from above? I bet you can. That's the way ours works, but I haven't accessed one in the 260. It has to be easy to get at.
 
Don't Hit me!!! I may get stupid post of the day BUT.. Do you set the fan speed manually or do you set the control to all automatic.


On mine I keep the fan speed manually set and run full time at one tick above medium, that keeps the air circulating and then the compressor kicks on and off to cool the moving air...

I know on mine when I switch to Auto mode the fan speed drops down to low and that does not move enough air to keep the cabin cool.

Also find that pulling the privacy curtains cuts down on air flow and cabin cooling..

Just putting it out there as it seems like you are getting an OK temp diff on the air temp..

Cleaning the Filter is also a must too...
 
I think most people run the fan full time. I do not. I also dialed my fan's top speed down as per the instruction manual. Dial it down until you hear the noise decrease, then bump it up a couple of notches. That's supposed to be the most efficient setting. I like the slow fan speed for minor temperature changes. For big differentials, it speeds up as required. I just didn't want it to run full time.

I have the temp sensor sticking out next to my side of the berth. If it gets stuffy, I grab the sensor for a few seconds and the A/C turns on.
 
I just lost the sea water pump this Sat morning @4am. I had been having trouble getting it to cool down, but it has been 100 during the day and the water temp has been in the low 90's - I just assumed it was working as hard as it could. I was getting about 15Deg difference on temp. 2 weeks ago i got a high press warning and noticed no water outflow. checked strainers and started - ran as normal till this weekend. When it quit this time i found the motor on the pump was way to hot and would only hum on startup. Assuming the 110 Electric motor died was all i could do with the amount of tools i had. We were 50 miles from home in a group of 5 boats - thankfully West Marine was close by, open, and had one in stock. Very lucky for the 4th of July Weekend - the stars were aligned. On the 02 340DA this pump is in the hardest place to get to on the front bulkhead of the bilge - under the wire loom coming from under the main DC panel.

It could be that your sea water pump for the unit is getting weak. Make sure you are getting a good steady flow of water to the unit - my boat will now get down to the upper 60's after some time but will easily keep it mid 70's out on the water in 100 degree temps.
 
From an engineering stand point, Temperature differance across the coil, on a properly charged unit, is a function of cabin temperature and humidity. There are two types of BTU removal, sensible heat (temperature), and Latent heat (phase change, pullign moisture from the air). That said, the higher the relative humidity in the cabin, the lower the Temp drop across the coil. The lower the humdity, the higher the TD across the coil. Condenser water temperature will also affect the efficiency(BTU removal) of the AC. Most systems are designed for a maximum condenser temperature of 95 degrees inlet water temperature. Anything above that will decrease the capacity of the unit. With that said, you should be able to acheive at least an 18 degree TD when the RH is 50%. On high humidity days the TD can dip to 14 degrees. Most systems are not charged properly, best to pull the charge, weigh in refrigerant as per manufacturer's specifications. Hope this helps.
 
This past weekend I noticed that the AC fan was on high, but I was getting very little air flow. I figured that the coil was frozen so I switched to heat for about 1/2 hour and my air flow returned to normal. Based on this, I am assuming that my coil did freeze.

Temperatures were in the low 80's with low humidity and the door to my cabin was open (my kids live in a barn)

Can anyone tell me why this would happen? Once I got it working again and I closed the cabin door, everything seemed OK. Can you freeze the coil if you overload the AC by leaving the door open?

The boat is an 2006, that I bought at the end of last year. I didn't know to look to filters, so therefore I have not done anything with the filters. I will be poking around next weekend when I get back to the boat
 
Anytime my A/C has frozen up - it is because the filter is dirty. With 2 dogs it doesn't take too long.
 
Vince_nj1 said:
Can you freeze the coil if you overload the AC by leaving the door open?
Click to expand...

No. Coil freezing is caused by either low air flow (due to clogged air filter or low speed default setting too slow), or unit low on refrigerant charge.
Check your filter asap.
 
Cruizair said that I need bigger fan based on the design by Sea Ray or another vent. Contacted Sea Ray customer service to get their advice. My coil has been freezing even leaving fan on high all the time and setting the temp no lower than 74.

Vince_nj1 said:
This past weekend I noticed that the AC fan was on high, but I was getting very little air flow. I figured that the coil was frozen so I switched to heat for about 1/2 hour and my air flow returned to normal. Based on this, I am assuming that my coil did freeze.

Temperatures were in the low 80's with low humidity and the door to my cabin was open (my kids live in a barn)

Can anyone tell me why this would happen? Once I got it working again and I closed the cabin door, everything seemed OK. Can you freeze the coil if you overload the AC by leaving the door open?

The boat is an 2006, that I bought at the end of last year. I didn't know to look to filters, so therefore I have not done anything with the filters. I will be poking around next weekend when I get back to the boat
Click to expand...
 
Have you heard back from Sea Ray on this issue. My a/c unit was frozen last weekend when we got to the boat and it was 97 degrees outside. I contacted the dealership and they said the unit was functioning properly...all fluids were at their correct levels. I was then told the same thing, there was not enough air flowing to the unit and causing it to freeze up(yes filter was clean). The dealership has contacted Sea Ray and they are working with their team to come up with something, but have not heard back yet.
 
Are your air hoses kinked or obstructed? Is your fan set to the highest setting? If you adjust your fan speed down for noise, you may decrease your airflow to the point that your system freezes.
 
I leave it on the automatic setting and just adjust the temp. I set it at 72 while I am off the boat and 68 or so while I am on the boat. To be honest, I don't really pay attention to the fan speed, just the temp I set. I'll check it out tonight and see if that will improve things.
 
The coils will also freeze up if the temperature inside the cabin is already 'cold' enough.

If you move your temperature sensor to an area with low airflow, the system will continue to run when in fact the unit should have already shut off. The sensor must be placed near adequate air flow to register the correct temperature so the unit will operate efficiently.

Doug
 
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