Last year I experimented with screwing a macerator directly into the pump-out deckplate -- http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25205&highlight=home+pump -- It worked fine, but I still wanted to make it easier. So....
My boat is kept on a trailer, and I have an on-board T-Pump (similar to a macerator) that was routed to a thru-hull (bottom of boat) seacock, just like a lot of you. Accessing this thru hull is, needless to say, quite difficult. So, I added another waste deckplate underneath the swim platform (just above the water line) and re-plumbed the 1-1/2" hose off the T-Pump to this new deckplate. I removed the seacock and plugged the actual thru-hull. If one wanted to, a Y-Valve could be installed to keep both the existing thru-hull (bottom) and new deck plate active. Another thing I made sure to do was to have the 1-1/2" hose (on the inside of the boat) plumbed so that it would gravity drain.
The idea here is to easily and quickly (and very importantly... mess free!) attach a hose to this new fitting and the other end of the hose to my house's 4" sewer vent pipe and perform pump-outs at home. The following pics show the basics (Thank you to Frank W for the tip on the cam-and-groove quick connects!).
In a nut shell, it works like this: Click one end of the hose to the boat, click the other to the house and press a button. Done. Now, you may be wondering... "Press a button"? Aha! The best part! I found a 12v wireless remote control and wired it in parallel to the current T-Pump/macerator key switch. I don't even have to get in the boat to turn the T-pump on!!!!
I hope this can help anyone else that is stuck with a trailerable boat and young kids!
One last word of caution... when using a T-Pump, you can not size down the hose too quickly - your pump won't like it. A regular macerator isn't affected by the back pressure.
My boat is kept on a trailer, and I have an on-board T-Pump (similar to a macerator) that was routed to a thru-hull (bottom of boat) seacock, just like a lot of you. Accessing this thru hull is, needless to say, quite difficult. So, I added another waste deckplate underneath the swim platform (just above the water line) and re-plumbed the 1-1/2" hose off the T-Pump to this new deckplate. I removed the seacock and plugged the actual thru-hull. If one wanted to, a Y-Valve could be installed to keep both the existing thru-hull (bottom) and new deck plate active. Another thing I made sure to do was to have the 1-1/2" hose (on the inside of the boat) plumbed so that it would gravity drain.
The idea here is to easily and quickly (and very importantly... mess free!) attach a hose to this new fitting and the other end of the hose to my house's 4" sewer vent pipe and perform pump-outs at home. The following pics show the basics (Thank you to Frank W for the tip on the cam-and-groove quick connects!).
In a nut shell, it works like this: Click one end of the hose to the boat, click the other to the house and press a button. Done. Now, you may be wondering... "Press a button"? Aha! The best part! I found a 12v wireless remote control and wired it in parallel to the current T-Pump/macerator key switch. I don't even have to get in the boat to turn the T-pump on!!!!
I hope this can help anyone else that is stuck with a trailerable boat and young kids!
One last word of caution... when using a T-Pump, you can not size down the hose too quickly - your pump won't like it. A regular macerator isn't affected by the back pressure.