Hole saw

[charlg]

I am installing two flush deck grill mounts. I went to the local hardware store to buy a hole saw, and for the size I needed
(1 1/8), the sold me a bi-metal hole saw. I told them it was for fiberglass, and they said that this would work. The teeth on this thing seems like it would damage the fiberglass.

Is a bi-metal hole saw the right tool?

 

[RiverRat]

The saw will be fine. The drill needs to be a variable speed though so you can start it off slowwwwlllllyyyyy so you don't chip the gelcoat. Another tip, cover this area to be drilled with some masking tape.

 

[charlg]

The saw will be fine. The drill needs to be a variable speed though so you can start it off slowwwwlllllyyyyy so you don't chip the gelcoat. Another tip, cover this area to be drilled with some masking tape.

Will do. Thanks. :thumbsup:

 

[Sea Ray 300]

The saw will be fine. The drill needs to be a variable speed though so you can start it off slowwwwlllllyyyyy so you don't chip the gelcoat. Another tip, cover this area to be drilled with some masking tape.

Agreed, but I'd use duct tape instead... :thumbsup:

 

[osd9]

What also helps minimize the chipping is to start drilling the hole in reverse....nice and slow.

That fiberglass shavings WILL go everywhere. A few more tips I can offer:

1.) pick your day....don't do it on a windy day...try as early in the AM as possible before the wind kicks up

2.) "build" a box around the area where you are going to drill. Use Newspaper and masking tape. The higher the sides the better.

3.) close everything onboard...hatches, doorways, etc....

4.) When you go to use the shop vac to vacuum things up....be very mindfull of where the exhaust is blowing......made that mistake once.... :smt101

Good luck...I'll take my burger medium... :grin:

 

[fwebster]

I like to drill a pilot hole so I'm sure the hole saw gets started in the right place and does not wander. If you don't, it can be hard to see under the hole saw and see where the mark is.

 

[STIHLBOLTS]

Here's the best piece of advice yet.

Take the hole saw back. Get your money back. Go buy a six pack of your favorite beverage. Take boat to dealer, ask them to drill the holes. Go home enjoy cold beverages while listening to tunes with out having had the stress of knowing you could have screwed it all up. :wink:

 

[Bottom Line]

I am getting ready to do the same thing. I contacted the dealer to have a rod holder installed. The service manager, who I have developed a good relationship with, said this is something that I could do. He said he would have to charge me an hour of labor on a 20 minute job....just to cover clean up time, etc. I have a small storage box on the port side I removed for access to the area. Here is my question...between the access area on the inside of the boat and the vent cover on the outside of the boat, is a thin piece of fiberglass. I guess the thin piece of fiberglass if here to deflect anything, that may come in thru the vent cover....can I cut the thin piece of fiberglass? To center the rod holder on the gunwale, it appears, I will need to cut a piece of the thin fiberglass out. I hope this decription make a little bit of sense. Also...if installing an angled rod holder (i.e. 60 degree), should the whole be cut on an angle or cut straight in on the first cut and then angle the whole to get the rod holder to fit? The more I think about this...the scarier it sounds.... :smt100 :smt100

 

[osd9]

......if installing an angled rod holder (i.e. 60 degree), should the whole be cut on an angle or cut straight in on the first cut and then angle the whole to get the rod holder to fit? The more I think about this...the scarier it sounds.... :smt100 :smt100

Don't be scared...what's the worst that could happen....you end up with a great spot for a cup holder.... :grin:

Seriously though.....yes, the closer you get the hole to the final angle of the rod holder the better off you will be. The area where you will be drilling through is Thick.....there will probably be an inch of plywood sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass about an 1/8" to a 1/4". There is a way to make a jig out of wood for the angle, but others with better woodworking skills would be able to talk you through that. Anyway.....you won't get it exact free hand, but try and get it close. Here again is where the dust will go EVERYWHERE. You will have to make the final adjustments to the hole with a rounded rasp/file. Keep that box up that you made out of newspaper,and place a small bucket under the hole while you file and fit...file and fit. I've done this a few times....four on my 330, two on my 380 and real soon two on my 410....it's not bad once you get over the intial feeling of "Oh $hit I'm drilling holes in my boat"

Also, if you are installing the rod holders for....fishing rods..... generally you will want them angled slightly outward.

 

[Bottom Line]

Dominic...thank for the info. My rodholder will only be used for a Magma grill. On your boats you have previously done installs on, have you noticed that thin piece of fiberglass behind the vent covers (sorry, I am not very good at describing this)? If so, did you have to cut them?

 

[osd9]

Yes, on my 380 it was there, but I got Lucky... :smt038 ...it wasn't in the way. However, it was not "Fixed" in place and was movable. I would guess, guess mind you, that if you measure closely you could avoid it. If you find the rod holder leaning up against it, wrap the rod holder with pipe insulation just to avoid an annoying rattle....

good luck...

 

[Bottom Line]

Dominic...good advice...it was not rigid, but was flexible. Do you caulk around your rodholders? Mine has the rubber cap connected to a piece of rubber that will set between the fiberglass and the stainless.

 

[osd9]

Yes again. I "shove" enough 4200 in the screw holes to fill them. I can't remember the size, but I used heavy duty tapper head SS wood screws to mount the holders. You will need two long and one short for each holder. The short one should be the same length as the thickenss of the wood and gelcoat/fiberglass combined. The short on goes in the single hole at the bend of the holder. The other two can be the same size but I used longer screws there to maximize the hold....probably don't need the extra length , but it made me feel good. Also, coat the sides of the "big" hole with the 4200 to "seal" the wood.

Dry fit the holder and tape around the deck area with blue masking tape. Then use the blue masking tape to tape the sides of the holder. Put a small bead of 4200 on the bottom of the holder base and "Git r' done".....

 

[Sea Ray 300]

This was posred last November. Hope it helps.

A member wrote:
Steve, I'm thinking of adding rod holders next spring, any surprises? Which ones did you use?


John,

I bought stainless Perko. Cost = about $70 each. They are angled at about 60 degrees, sit flush, and have rubber weather caps. A year ago, I bought some stainless West Marine rail mounted rod holders (half the price of Perko) for my Whaler, and they discolored in 2 months. Back they went, and I replaced them with Perko. The old addage, "You really do get what you pay for!"

Installation was pretty straight forward. Removed the rear bench, accessed the underside of the gunwales through the access panels, held the rod holder up unside to check for clearances (plenty), as if I recall, the only thing in there is the fuel filler hose. Measured and transferred the measurements to the top of the gunwales. Then I cut the clear plastic front panel from the Perko package, which is designed to be used as a guide for drilling at the proper angle. Then sealed the self tappers with 4200. Note: the rod holders don't come with SS screws, you'll have to purchase them seperately. Both done in 1 1/2 hours. Good luck...

 

[skolbe]

When I installed a table in my 260 - I went in reverse with the hole saw until I was through the gelcoat.

Nothing more fun than drilling holes in someone elses boat!

 

[jg300da]

Too many words and far too much worrying over a very easy job. I installed two of these on my 300, and the most difficult part was locating the holes so they didn't interfere or damage anything below the gunwale. Once that was decided (about 5mins work) simply choose a hole saw slightly larger (I forget the exact size), hold the rod holder alongside the gunwale to approximate the angle or use a woodworkers bevel tool, and hold the drill at the correct angle while carefully drilling the hole. The angle does NOT have to be perfect as the deck is not that thick and the oversized holesaw will provide some play when you are screwing the rodholder down. No need to worry about the holesaw wandering as the pilot bit will hold it on line. It is a bit messy so have a vacuum nearby.
Two rodholders for anyone with average skills no more than 1- 1 1/2 hours.

 

[Bottom Line]

Everyone...thanks for the great input. I ordered a rod holder thru my dealer(although not a Sea Ray brand holder). I should have by this weekend.

jd300...I know you know have a 240DA. Do you have any pics of the holders installed on your 300DA? Did you postition the holder so it was beside the deflector shield, behind the outside vent covers?

 

[jg300da]

BottomLine,

I wanted to position the rodholders so they were each the same distance from the back edge. This distance is determined by the position of the portside rod holder because the port side storage bin forward of the door makes this critical. You also need to be aware of the fuel fills on each side before drilling. I'll look for some pics to see if I have one. I believe the final position was roughly even with the center of the two rear spring cleats.

 

[Bottom Line]

Just for my clarification...the 4200 sealant is not permanant like the 5200...right?

 

[skolbe]

Correct - that's what I used for my GPS antenna on the arch.