Help with Kohler Generator Please

Fishstick

New Member
Aug 3, 2020
17
Texas
Boat Info
1995 Sea Ray 175
1995 Chaparral Signature 310
Engines
90 Honda Outboard
Twin Mercruiser 5.7 w/Alpha 1
I have an older Kohler 4K watt generator (model 4CZ23) with under 500 hours. Has ran great for 5 years. While on the water running, it just died. Wouldn’t restart, never did that before. Was running strong, it’s never run rough.

Next day in slip tried to start it, cranks strong, won’t run. I checked oil level, strainer, changed plugs, checked impeller for damage, have over 1/2 tank gas, twin engines fire right up and run great, and also checked two fuses. Tried to start from both cabin and then from the Genny itself - no luck. Everything checked looks good.

I tend to think that the electric pump has gone out, but:

1) I don’t know how to check it. Can you?
2) An OEM replacement is $300ish. Is OEM required?
3) I don’t know if my pump is low or high pressure and
4) I see there are options for 12v and 24v. Assuming mine is 12v, but how do I tell?

Thanks in advance.
 
Troubleshooting starts with
1. Air - verify no airflow obstructions snd choke operation.
2. Verify spark
3. Verify fuel by loosening a a fuel line connection between the fuel pump and carb and Ck for fuel while cranking. Safety is very important with this step to avoid fuel spill.
 
+1 on above. Go online on Kohler and download the manuals. Order fuel pump from part number in parts manual if fuel pump not pumping fuel while cranking. Also try this first. Disconect the fuel pump power wire and reconnect it a few times to clean the contacts. I have had to do that and after a few times finally replaced the connection with new.
 
If you do not think it's getting fuel, spray some starting fluid into the carb. If it starts, then stops, continue to spray. If it continues to run it's probably the fuel pump.
 
Here's what I have done to date and asking what my next step should be?

Generator running fine on water and just died and wouldn't restart.

Replaced both spark plugs.
Checked both fuses, battery charger fuse was blown - replaced. Other fuse was good, but replaced anyhow.
Four batteries on boat, all good and fully charged.
Replaced air filter - old one was a little dirty, but not concerning.
Replaced electric fuel pump.
Added inline fuel filter.
Checked impeller - good.
Checked oil level - good.
Coolant level - good.
Checked strainer for blockage - none.
Confirmed getting spark.

If you hold starter down it will run and discharge water - but when you let it go, it dies.

Not sure what I might check next?
 
If it runs with the start button depressed only then the pcb is detecting a fault in an engine sensor or the genny. Side.
There should be an access panel that can be remove on top of the control panel and the relay lights will be viewable.
Observing those during the start and run sequence will provide a clue as to the problem.
 
Here's what I have done to date and asking what my next step should be?

Generator running fine on water and just died and wouldn't restart.

Replaced both spark plugs.
Checked both fuses, battery charger fuse was blown - replaced. Other fuse was good, but replaced anyhow.
Four batteries on boat, all good and fully charged.
Replaced air filter - old one was a little dirty, but not concerning.
Replaced electric fuel pump.
Added inline fuel filter.
Checked impeller - good.
Checked oil level - good.
Coolant level - good.
Checked strainer for blockage - none.
Confirmed getting spark.

If you hold starter down it will run and discharge water - but when you let it go, it dies.

Not sure what I might check next?
The blown fuse is the clue. Start there on the trouble shooting tree. I’ll look when I have a chance.
 
recheck that fuse to see if it's blown again.
 
Did you try using starting fluid like I suggested above?
I did not try that because I replaced the fuel pump and added an inline fuel filter. Do you think I still should try what you suggested even after the fuel pump replacement?
 
I did not try that because I replaced the fuel pump and added an inline fuel filter. Do you think I still should try what you suggested even after the fuel pump replacement?
I would have done that before starting to replace fuel parts, yes, give it a try.
 
If it runs with the start button depressed only then the pcb is detecting a fault in an engine sensor or the genny. Side.
There should be an access panel that can be remove on top of the control panel and the relay lights will be viewable.
Observing those during the start and run sequence will provide a clue as to the problem.
I'll have to see if there is an access point on the top or side. I can't recall, but I've never specifically looked for one. In the pic uploaded, there is a little black box attached to the side with a smaller green plug and some wires. I'm not sure what this is or if there is anything to check there.
genny.png
 
I misread the part about holding the start button down and it will run, so disregard my suggestion about starting fluid.
 
Typically when you're holding the start button down, you're bypassing all the shutdown sensors, like the low oil pressure and/or the exhaust temperature sensor. You can jumper those to temporarily test, but don't leave them jumpered as they serve a very important pupose.
 
There is a solenoid that controls the choke, I had one go bad so I would have to hold the choke open by hand and start the generator. I would assume there is a solenoid that also shit the unit down when u press the off switch. Perhaps that part has gone bad
 
I'll have to see if there is an access point on the top or side. I can't recall, but I've never specifically looked for one. In the pic uploaded, there is a little black box attached to the side with a smaller green plug and some wires. I'm not sure what this is or if there is anything to check there.View attachment 147021
The black box is the volt as he regulator. The white box it is attached to has the pcb inside with relays and indicator lights that will help you trouble shoot. And there is no sensor for the choke. The choke coil is electrically heated and those go bad causing a run rich condition. The coil has been discontinued so I set my mine to full lean.
 
Just to close the loop on this thread for the next guy, my issue on the generator turned out to be a dead capacitor. Capacitor replaced and all is well. The capacitor on my model is inside the metal compartment and previous owner had replaced it on some point and didn't secure it. It eventually rubbed through causing a hole.
 
Just to close the loop on this thread for the next guy, my issue on the generator turned out to be a dead capacitor. Capacitor replaced and all is well. The capacitor on my model is inside the metal compartment and previous owner had replaced it on some point and didn't secure it. It eventually rubbed through causing a hole.
Thanks for the follow up. How was the bad capacitor detected?
 

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