Help! Sounds like jumped time??

[speakrdude]

Was running great. Idled to fuel dock. Shut off. Filled up. Now does this!
Watch and listen to video.

thanks

 

[Espos4]

I only see a picture. Can you reload the video?

 

[speakrdude]

Try this

 

[speakrdude]

Apparently I don’t know how

 

[Blueone]

You have to YouTube it...then post the link

 

[speakrdude]

 

[speakrdude]

Ta-Da!

 

[hottoddie]

Check oil for water. How old are the elbows, risers and manifolds?

 

[scoflaw]

Probably could be any number of things. If you want to check for a jumped chain. Line up the timing mark on both engines and look to see where the rotors are pointing

 

[speakrdude]

Checked HE. Water color perfect. Oil perfect.
Coincidence that I filled it up and it started doing this? After I finally got it started, all was normal. Idle, temp, but under load would not go over 3000 rpms.
Starvation problem? Guess is the best place to start.
In an unrelated topic, are the flame-at restore on this make, cleanable? They look almost like paper. (Bone stock)

 

[Espos4]

Let it sit again for 20 minutes and see if it restarts easily.

if it continues with the 3,000 rpm max speed, you could
Pull the plugs and check for water In the cylinders, and perform a Compression test

 

[Mugmarine66]

Check cap and rotor for crossfire.

 

[speakrdude]

Check cap and rotor for crossfire.

How do I check? Will there be a sign or replace? That’s what is sounds like.

 

[Mugmarine66]

Just remove screws on distributor cap and turn upside down and look for tracks or burn marks on the insides of cap or rotor. Good start point.

 

[Seapig]

Check cap and rotor for crossfire.

Ditto.

sounds like classics crossfire due to a bum cap.

 

[speakrdude]

Looks pretty corroded, but no cracks or traces. Ordered new Cap and rotor, anyway.
Another weird issue. Belt is slipping when trying to crank over. Tightened as much as possible. Bad belt, I suppose. I hand rotated all the pulleys and for pump, just to make sure. The raw water pump is always tough to turn by hand.

 

[Seapig]

Looks pretty corroded, but no cracks or traces. Ordered new Cap and rotor, anyway.
Another weird issue. Belt is slipping when trying to crank over. Tightened as much as possible. Bad belt, I suppose. I hand rotated all the pulleys and for pump, just to make sure. The raw water pump is always tough to turn by hand.

Are you sure the belt is properly routed? There may be a routing map on your thermostat housing for reference

 

[speakrdude]

Pretty sure. Been running it for the last 3 years that way. Plus the strbd engine was a good guide.
Probably shouldn’t have sprayed it with wd-40 to make it quit squeaking last year. I’ve got a couple of spares. Will try that.

 

[speakrdude]

I am beginning to suspect a failing riser. Sounds like a hydro lock issue.
Boat is a 2002 model, new to me 4 years ago. PO said strb engine rebuilt new mans/risers. However port engine (problem engine) appears to be stock. Fresh water cooled, but it came from salt. Is in lake water now.
I suppose next is to pull the plugs and check for water.
These risers are not “dry joint” should I change to dry joint?
Serial number om310000 and up

 

[speakrdude]

Is it possible, this model closed cooling system is really only “half-cooled”?
From looking at the video, I don’t see a seperate water hose connected to the risers.
I figured factory Merc closed cooled would be full cooled.