help: 260 Sundancer water on cabin floor

[Mikeod]

Design error or problem? Water goes from shower to holding tank under first step in cabin. Has bilge and float switch to empty but not all the way. Slowly leaks into another area there with bilge and float switch. However, bilge must pump water up hose and out boat and leaves enough water to wick into carpet and soak floor. Am I missing something??
Mikeod

 

[Oar Play]

It could be a loose connection on a hose. I had the same problem, turns out it was a broken connection on the pump end that sticks out of the
sump box. Water should not be leaking out of the sump box!

 

[Old Vet]

"Water should not be leaking out of the sump box! "

Unless your wife goes for a shower and forgets to turn that pump on like mine did. :smt089 Mine doesn't have a float switch. Probably something I'll be changing very soon.

 

[Hellman Huddle]

2006 has an automatic sump. Sounds like your float switch is sticking and the box is getting full and leaking out the top. The box is not sealed closed at the top.

 

[rcmafgny]

i have the same situation. i found water in the bilge under the step. turned out it was a leaky window. the sump should be sealed. the carpet acting like a wick is real annoying and i agree that the design is a little iffy there

 

[Dave S]

There are several things I recommend you check.

It sounds like maybe you determined the drain box is emptying OK except for some water run back from the hoses (which is normal). But if not, then run enough water down the floor drain in the head to see if the pump activates and empties the box. If it doesn't then the problem is with the float or the bilge pump inside the drain box. You have to remove the screws on the top of the box to get to the innards. If it is emptying then check all the hose connections to see if they are OK. (Condensate water from your A/C unit also drain into that box as well.) If all of that is working OK then check the caulking inside the head where the fiberglass enclosure is sealed against the front wall (where the door is). I had a problem with my caulking not being done properly that allowed water to leak out when showering into the area where the drain box is located.

Dave

 

[Mikeod]

Thank you all for the input. I didn't know the air condenser went in there. I will bring a shop vac out today to suck water out if the tests of the switch and bilge fail.
Thanks again.
Mike

 

[CKL]

Just had the same problem last weekend. Turns out the sump box had to be replaced due to wear around the area where the hoses enter the box.

 

[islandhopper00]

Actually, the lid for my box is sealed with a rubber gasket. There is a vent, in the top of the side of the box. That allows air to escape when water fills it. If the pump doesn't kick on (like mine usually doesn't) the box fills up, and overflows through the vent into the forward bilge, and then the carpet wicks the water, and you know the effect when that happens.

Let me preface the following statement with, there are many contributors to the "wet carpet issue" in these boats, however the following condition is what is wrong with mine! haha

I've watched the operation of my drain sump, closely! The pump is clean, and works like it is supposed to. HOWEVER! I believe (opinion statement here) the a/c condensate fills the box so slowly, AND the float switch at the sump full level, is only close to making contact. (the mercury isn't "rolling" into place to energize the circuit). Therefore if I tap my sump box while filling, it will operate. If I don't tap my sump box while filling it will overflow. I believe the sump box needs to be taller OR the difference in pump/level switch energize/deenergize deadband is not tight enough. Either way, MY sump box needs to be deeper for it to operate properly. Yes I have changed the pump with a new one only to show the same traits as the one replaced.
I'm currently looking for a replacement sump box set up that will fit in the space provided and work properly. The defining condition of the space provided is the clearance between the bottom of the bilge space and the bottom of the trash can. I could delete the trash can and install a bigger unit, however I like the trash can in it's current location. BUT if I can't find a suitable replacement I will move the trash can!

 

[Dave S]

Mike

Here is a picture of my sump box. It is also located under the wastebasket like it is in your 240DA. Can you point out the location of the vent you mentioned since it isn't obvious to me (I have never removed my cover).

Dave

 

[Mecubana]

I'm having a similar problem, my turns out to be a leaky port window, the water makes his way behind the shower liner into the floor of the store compartment on the shower and in to the sump area, nothing to do with the sump box nor the drain houses just rain water leak keep an eye on the sump, dry it and wait for rain see if it helps
good luck

 

[Half Fast]

With regard to water coming back into the sump box after the pump shuts off - On the rule sump boxes, there is a short tube between the rule pump and the discharge connector. Inside that tube is a rubber check valve. They harden and fail over time, especially with all the soap and chemicals that go through the sump. They either fail so that the pump can't push water through it and the sump box overflows - or it stops preventing water from running back into the box after the pump stops. If you call or email rule they will send you replacements.

 

[dicor]

My float switch was intermittently failing. I replaced it with a larger rule float switch which seems to be more buoyant. It required me to drill a hole in the base of the switch (not the box) for correct mounting. I also have plans to remove the output hose and install elbow on the box that goes 90 degrees up passed the top of the box then 90 degrees down to the original level the connect it to the output hose. Sort of like a reverse trap. This should prevent the water left in the hose once the pump stops from coming back to the box.

 

[Half Fast]

I also have plans to remove the output hose and install elbow on the box that goes 90 degrees up passed the top of the box then 90 degrees down to the original level the connect it to the output hose. Sort of like a reverse trap. This should prevent the water left in the hose once the pump stops from coming back to the box.

That's what the rubber check valve insert is for - the box is designed not to allow the water remaining in the hose back in.

 

[islandhopper00]

Dave your box is completly different than mine! WoW! Does your sump box work well? If it does, I wonder if your box (the 260 da box) will fit in my 240 da?
Anyways, the vent for my box is right among the hoses that fill the box. If you are standing in the cabin looking at the trash can/sump box opening, looking down on the top, my hoses come into the box from the left (the head side). There is a vent that looks like a hose should be connected but it is open.

 

[islandhopper00]

Dave, looking at your sump box, I see a hose connection "vent" just above the shower drain line. Maybe?
My box has a combo pump level float. And is alot smaller

I also see that you have another bilge pump in there, the 240da does not. Hmmm, there is also alot more room in your forward bilge. There is a big difference the 240 and 260da's I see. Man I messed up buying a 240da!

 

[tbirdvet]

If you go to the manufactures (Attwood) site that extra fitting you call a vent is not a vent. It is for another hose. Sea Ray does not use that fitting. Perhaps they use as a vent (or overflow) since it is not hooked up to anything.

 

[Dave S]

Dave, looking at your sump box, I see a hose connection "vent" just above the shower drain line. Maybe?
My box has a combo pump level float. And is alot smaller

I also see that you have another bilge pump in there, the 240da does not. Hmmm, there is also alot more room in your forward bilge. There is a big difference the 240 and 260da's I see. Man I messed up buying a 240da!

Mike

I'll check out that fitting on mine to see if it is open.

One thought on your vent pipe overflowing, if you can attach a flexible hose to the vent you may be able to run that hose up to a higher point under the step so water wouldn't escape from it easily.

Do you want me to measure the dimensions of my box to see if one of those might fit in your 240DA? So far I have never had any problems with my sump and my AC runs constantly over the summer since I am moored in a wet slip and leave it on 24/7 so water is going into the box all the time . But I also check it every time I am at the boat to make sure it is dry.

Dave

 

[dicor]

Not to get off track but you may want to invest in one of these. CLICK HERE

I put one next to my sump, I got tired of checking for water. Of course it only helps if you are there but it's better for nothing. You can buy it for $10 at the home depot, or if you prefer I'd be happy to slap a Mercruiser label on it and charge you $275.

 

[Nehalennia]

Dave, looking at your sump box, I see a hose connection "vent" just above the shower drain line. Maybe?
My box has a combo pump level float. And is alot smaller

I also see that you have another bilge pump in there, the 240da does not. Hmmm, there is also alot more room in your forward bilge. There is a big difference the 240 and 260da's I see. Man I messed up buying a 240da!

I'm curious what yours looks like. Do you have a pic?
I think mine looks the same as Dave's but I don't have A/C so I don't have that input hose.