Hatch riser Arm

Uplate

New Member
Oct 13, 2008
977
Nashville, TN. Percy Priest Lake
Boat Info
1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 310
Westebeke 4KW Generator
Engines
Twin 5.7 Mercruiser Carbuerated.
Alpha 1 Drives
Several of us have posted about the need to adjust or replace the Hatch riser Arms for our bow hatches in the 310 thread.

Several of mine do not seem to Lock properly. Adjust or Replace? I see no visible signs of adjustment points.

I have seen replacement arms for sale, but the factory install appears to be a revit attachment of some sort. No idea how to handle that for replacing with a new part.

Suggestions from anyone who has done this appreciated.
 
On the 280 the lock bolt is ss and the threaded base is not. The bolt freezes and when you unfreeze it, the bolt strips out the threads of the base.

Some folks have been able to get parts, but the best I could do was the whole arm. The arm is rivited to the frame and the other end has a 1" ring that is mounted to the glass. The end with the ring is articulated and the hinge pin is rivit.

If you drill out that rivit you can dissassemble the arm while leaving the frame rivit in place. The frame rivit is in a socket that requires an industrial rivit tool. Once you have dissasembled the arm you can replace the base ( after taking a new arm apart), or tap it out and use a new knob bolt. When done replace wit a small machine screw # 6?

I removed the rivit at the frame and reattaching with a screw became a major pita, the thing worked better the OEM way , so even if you have to buy the whole arm you will be better off doing it this way. I only found about this after I had done mine!
 
Thank You Henry for the info.

I was hoping it would be more of an easy fix, but it seldom is... there must be a reason for the rivet instead of some other sort of attachment method. Maybe Taylor thought it would never fail so why not make it "permanent"?

My thumbscrews move very little between loose and locking. Seems they should have more thread travel. Would lubricating these possibly help or further the stripping thread process?

Maybe I can borrow one of those industrial rivet tools you mentioned from one of the scenic shops I do business with.
 
Mike,

Sorry, I think I described it wrong. I just took one of the old ones that happens to reside on the bokshelf behing my desk and realized I suggested removing the rivet from the wrong end! The rivet to remove is on the metal tube that holds the round bracket that attaches to the glass, but it is on the end that holds the plastic stop.

You remove the stip and the bracket from the glass and the ss tube pulls out. Once that happens the clamp will separate allowing you to insert the new parts.

To answer your specific question it sounds like the threads are gone in the clamp casting. One is stainless and the other is some kind of chrome plated pot metal.

Sorry about the mistake.

Henry
 

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