Had to get towed in...

That's a great point FC3.

Many do our own work and service. However, if you keep your receipts and any information about the service, such as the hours and date, brand of oil and filters, or any unusual repairs, this can still be documentation for warranty or insurance purposes. Just because you did the work doesn’t mean you shouldn’t document it. Also list any big repairs to the product company’s “comments” or “contact us” web site. Save the e-mail with your documentation.
 
Well, in my case it was easy. I had a seal fault. Stern drive seals should be replaced every X years. I forget the number. I had receipts going back from when I bought the boat that showed drive fully disassembled and reassembled with new seals and parts as required every X - N years where N > 0 & N < X.
 
This boat had no receipts...Previous owner did not keep anything, so I am starting fresh trying to get all systems up to par...argghh
 
I feel for you and am in a similar predicament at the moment due to my own neglect. My boat sat in my driveway for over a year and now Stbd engine wont crank and I have to pull the drive to see if its the drive or the engine thats seized. Either way gonna cost me 1K+ to repair and get on the water..:smt013
 
My bad guy's. I should have understood that you weren't the original owners. I am the second on my boat too.

Two strikes. One, no receipts and two, not the original owner. The product company and dealer will not be able to help you out unless they just love you to death. (not likely).

I bought my boat with many upgrades done to it. The seller did not have the receipts either. I did a sea trial and the boat ran out great for 4 hours. That being said I just took the risk that all was well. In my case I've had it for 3 years and have only repaired/replaced the things I wanted to. Breaks went my way on this one.

I did use the fact of no documentation to have the seller drop his price. Not enough to replace the engine or drive but enough to make me feel good about the purchase.

Hope thing get worked out for the both of you.

BTW, FC3, 0 would be the unknown variable that will set the planets back in align after a meteor take us out.
:smt043:smt043
 
mechanic just called and said he believes the engine threw a rod...Quotes me 8-10k to fix...Said they don't make 454's anymore and I need to get a new engine...Any ideas?
 
Lets back the wagons up here a minute. How did we go from rear drive noise and killing the engine to rod thrown? That makes no sense. Another thing is that there are plenty of 454 rebuilders out there. Search google and you'll find them.

Either I missunderstood your analysis or you need another opinion ASAP.

First off you said that the engine was not leaking and it does run until put into gear. The rod can not be "thrown" as it would lock the engine from running plus you'ed have the gulf oil crisis in you engine bay and inside engine parts looking outside. You may have a rod knock but that is completely rebuildable and for far less than 10K.
Second, you said it only kills the engine when you put it in gear. This sounds like the drive is the problem not the engine.

Frank, FC3 what thinkith thee???
 
Might want to make sure your mechanic is a marine mechanic and not an auto mechanic. I have rebuilt several engines most from autos and anytime you blow a rod you spray oil EVERYWHERE!!! Also engine don't run no more. If yours runs in neutral your rods are intact. Also 8 to 10k to rebuild an engine is ridiculous. Can buy one already rebuilt for less than 2k.

FIND A NEW MECHANIC ASAP!!!!!
 
Got with another marine mechanic in the area..He has a rebuilt 454 big block...with manfolds/risers/installation 6k out the door...

I'll be honest, I know nothing about engines. But everyone I talk to is telling me that the rod can be bent or broken and still allow the engine to run roughly. The banging noise is coming from the engine from what they are telling me and it looks like "the engine took a drink of water"...No clue what the crap that means. They say unless the rod goes through the block or other engine area, the motor can still weakly run and there will not be oil leaking...

Not sure if this is true, butttt that's what Im being told...I called my surveyor and he agreed that it sounds like water got in and caused this...WTF! One hour and 6k dollar bill???

Im just sick and tempted to sell the girl...but there is still the side of me that says fix the engine and hang in there...I now know what the Capt. of the Titanic must have felt.
 
Matt, now it's coming together. You must have injested water into the cylinder. Water does not compress so when the piston went to the top of the stroke it more than likely bent the connecting rod. I doubt you are hearing the rod knocking on the crank. It is most likely the bent rod hitting the block or the piston skirt slapping the cylinder wall. Very common with water injestion. It's great that you found a 454 for 6K out the door. If I was rebuilding your engine I would completely dismantle it and check every connecting rod. One thing that gets over looked is the stress the crankshaft takes when this happens. Removing the crank and having it checked is also a good idea. Also check every inch of the exhaust and replace anything looking suspicious.

Git her fixed and get out there and have fun.
 
It's possible. If you want to do a bunch of work yourself, IE pull the engine, remove the accessories (wiring harness, pumps, carb, exhaust manifolds and the like) so that you're down to a long block, most machine shops can rebuild a 7.4 for around $3,500. Might be a bit more if they have a lot of machining to do. Depends on how bad the engine is.
 
Water injestion is caused from not replacing the exhaust. The elbows and risers are to be changed every 5-6 years in a salt water application. If you have not changed the exhaust, this is most likely why the water is in the engine.

Do you still have oil pressure when it is running? If you spin a bearing, your oil pressure will be down near zero. If you bend a rod, you will still have oil pressure. If you want to be sure do a compression check. If you "threw a rod" you will have no compression in That cyl. If you broke a rod it may be slapping around the crank and pulverizing the rest of your internals.

Jasper engines is an awesome place to find a quality rebuild. They are just about the only company that puts a 2 year warr. On their rebuilds, and if there is a problem, THEY pay for the engine to come out and for the replacement to go back in. Good luck.
 
fc3 said:
I don't know. Blown universals or coupler wouldn't prevent the engine from turning rated RPM. I think more likely the opposite, the engine would overspeed until it hit the rev limiter and threw an alarm. Interesting puzzle, but insufficient information.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking...
Never owned an I/O, so I'll put this out there- is there any situation where a bad coupler would create enough resistance to reduce max rpms?
 
Still has rpm's...Just purchased the boat...Surveyor told me the manifolds and risers had 6 mos left...When you say elbows are u talking about the manifolds?
 
The manifold is the exhaust part connected to the engine. The riser is inbetween the manifold and the elbow. If the are original they will probably have stickers with serial number for engine on them. You cant see if they are bad by looking at them on the engine. You need to pull them off. You will have a better understanding of how they work if you look at them off the engine. Once off you will see a square port in the middle and around that port you will see 4 oblong narrow ports around the larger one. These are your water jackets. The wall between the water jacket an the the exhaust rust and eventually rot out allowing water to get into the exhaust and into the engine.

And by the way a surveyer should not assume that an exhaust system is good for any duration of time unless he pulls the parts off and inspects the internals. Even if you inspect the parts that you can see, it still my be leaking somewhere you can't. Good luck!
 
Thats boating! We are lucky to have forums like this to get information based on other peoples experiences. By the time your done with this you'll be a pro...Talking the talk and walking the walk.

If you have some time look at Jasper engines. They are great reman engines.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,218
Messages
1,428,820
Members
61,115
Latest member
Gardnersf
Back
Top