Generator really cold blooded

[MExcelsior]

Hi Folks,

My generator was really difficult to start this last weekend. Westerbeke Low Profile 5K gas 2005. Are these things usually this cold blooded. (I do hold the prime button for 20-30 seconds before starting). Oil, oil filter, fuel filter changed during winterization last fall. New plugs after initial start this spring. It seems like it has never really wanted to fire off right away.

Can the plugs be getting fouled this quickly. (I do run under load while it is running).

Love to get some input.

Thanks in advance.

ME

 

[Alex D]

It seems to just be the case with carbureted Westerbekes. My 4.5 BCGB is cold blooded too and after a week of sitting takes about 15 seconds of cranking to fire up. There are many threads here stating the same on the 4.5 and the 7.5 which have the same engine. My simple solution is to fire it up from the generator controls for the first time every weekend when the hatch is open for fluid and bilge checks and use a shot of starting fluid after I cranked her for five seconds. that immediately gets her going and after that restarting is always quick if she was shut down overnight or during the day until we come back next weekend. This saves the starter motor and a can of NAPA starting fluid lasts me more than two seasons.

 

[MExcelsior]

Hi Alex,

Great info. I'm glad I'm not alone. Super advise. Thanks so much!

 

[sbw1]

I do the cold start from the ER too. Run the fuel pump for about 5-6 seconds and then push the start button. It starts in about 10 seconds runs briefly and starts to sputter. I run the fuel pump button again very briefly and the sputter stops. I may need to do this 3 times before it runs withou a stumble. Putting a little load on it smooths it out and I add more load slowly and she is good to go.

 

[Stray Cat]

Is the issue a automatic choke that doesn't pull off once started? I'm part of the Kohler crowd.....their Kawasaki farts, coughs, sputters, and smokes if you try to cold start it in a cold / cool ER. I have to give my choke linkage a little nudge with my finger to smooth the motor out.....if the main engines have been run after a cruise, it will start and run smooth every time due to a warmer ER....

 

[PlayDate]

Hi Folks,

My generator was really difficult to start this last weekend. Westerbeke Low Profile 5K gas 2005. Are these things usually this cold blooded. (I do hold the prime button for 20-30 seconds before starting). Oil, oil filter, fuel filter changed during winterization last fall. New plugs after initial start this spring. It seems like it has never really wanted to fire off right away.

Can the plugs be getting fouled this quickly. (I do run under load while it is running).

Love to get some input.

Thanks in advance.

ME

Your start sequence should be:

Hold the prime/preheat button down for 5-6 seconds, then depress (continue to depress the prime/preheat button) the starter button for 5 seconds. If it doesn't start, release both and repeat the sequence. Most will start by the second or third sequence.

When it does, continue to depress the preheat/prime button for 20 seconds to allow the unit to stablize. You only need to do this if the unit is cold. Once the unit reaches operating temperature it should start and run right away.

-John

 

[Presentation]

Do you have the correct spark plugs?

 

[Alex D]

Is the issue a automatic choke that doesn't pull off once started? I'm part of the Kohler crowd.....their Kawasaki farts, coughs, sputters, and smokes if you try to cold start it in a cold / cool ER. I have to give my choke linkage a little nudge with my finger to smooth the motor out.....if the main engines have been run after a cruise, it will start and run smooth every time due to a warmer ER....

Not really. the Westerbekes I know do not have an automatic choke. The Preheat button does two things. Actuates aprimer pump operated by a solenoid and close the choke. As soon as you let go of this switch the pump stops and the chocke fully opens.

 

[Alex D]

Your start sequence should be:

Hold the prime/preheat button down for 5-6 seconds, then depress (continue to depress the prime/preheat button) the starter button for 5 seconds. If it doesn't start, release both and repeat the sequence. Most will start by the second or third sequence.

When it does, continue to depress the preheat/prime button for 20 seconds to allow the unit to stablize. You only need to do this if the unit is cold. Once the unit reaches operating temperature it should start and run right away.

-John

Yes and we all do it. the issue is that the Westerbekes need a lot of cranking before firing up no matter what you do even if you follow the right proceedure to start them. All 4.5/7.5 BCGBs I know need anywhere between 10 and 20 seconds of arduous cranking to fire up when they sat for a while.

 

[PlayDate]

Actually, i was making a subtle point. Holding the preheat/prime button down for 20 seconds BEFORE hitting the start button is excessive. Those models of Westerbeke's have an electric fuel pump which stabilizes in 5-6 seconds with 3-5 lbs of pressure.

Once the fuel bowl is full it is a matter of getting the fuel/air mixture drawn into the combustion chamber. Since there is no "prime charge (squirt of fuel)" getting enough fuel vapor into the combustion chamber requires some cranking if the engine has been sitting.

You have to be careful with extended cranking because exhaust water can back up from the muffler to the engine if the engine is cranked too long without starting. I normally shut off the seacock when diagnosing a unit that refuses to start.

-John

 

[Alex D]

Actually, i was making a subtle point. Holding the preheat/prime button down for 20 seconds BEFORE hitting the start button is excessive. Those models of Westerbeke's have an electric fuel pump which stabilizes in 5-6 seconds with 3-5 lbs of pressure.

Once the fuel bowl is full it is a matter of getting the fuel/air mixture drawn into the combustion chamber. Since there is no "prime charge (squirt of fuel)" getting enough fuel vapor into the combustion chamber requires some cranking if the engine has been sitting.

You have to be careful with extended cranking because exhaust water can back up from the muffler to the engine if the engine is cranked too long without starting. I normally shut off the seacock when diagnosing a unit that refuses to start.

-John

Yes, I often wonder about the cranking and water backing up, but the manula says if you crank more than 45 seconds to stop and diagnose. usually they fire in about 30 seconds but it is still a long time cranking. My simple solution with starting fluid works great ... I only use a tiny, tiny shot of it and she fires right up. The one thing I noted is that it takes quite a bit of running to fill the lift mufflers on the mains and the genny. If the genny sat overnight and fires up within three seconds of cranking next morning it takes the running genny @ 1800 rpm about 10 seconds or more to fill teh lift muffler before water comes out of the through hull, so you would have to crank a lot to actually have the potential for water back up into the manifold. I do not at all like to crank an engien with the sea cock closed. These rubber impellers are so easily destroyed within seconds if they don't have water moving through them I think this is actually a greater risk for damage.

 

[sbw1]

The WB manual could be alot clearer on the start up procedure. I found procedure by trial and error which included a lot of cranking without a start. Fortunately it did not hydro lock. Now that I know the trick, it's a piece of cake.