Gauge lights not working when Navigation lights buttons on switchpad are pressed?

[trdehmer]

Wiring question/issue….

When I turn on my navigation lights my individual gauges (trim, wired radio remote, depth finder, speed, RPM, trim, etc.) no longer light up? Navigation lights still work, and switch pads light up and even dim. But, none of the gauges light up - at first they were intermittent, now they don’t work at all.

I took a multimeter to the blue wire (which I believe ties all the gauges together to light them up) that was attached to the Clarion wired remote and the negative/ground black wire and it wasn’t getting 12V for power (at one point it was, but intermittent). Then after they didn’t work at all I put the multimeter to the function to have it “beep” if two wires touched. The blue wire which should be positive 12v power (when the navigation lights power up to power up the gauges) and the ground wire “beep” on the multimeter when touching them - I think that would tell me that blue wire and the ground wire are touching somewhere? That or the button switchpad has something bad in it maybe or something in the EIM's?? I didn't see anything tripped in the fore or aft EIM's. So, something is wrong and those wires should have never been touched previously. Any thoughts where to start??

 

[hughespat57]

Do the Nav lights come on with the same button. so it's not likely the key pad.
The communications between the pad and the EIM is all digital cant check it with a meter.
There are circuits and relays in the EIM, the relays can fail, a little odd given the very low current gauge lights would need.
Check the EIM breakers is there a specific one for panel lights?

 

[trdehmer]

The Nav lights come on with the same button. Maybe it is a relay - not sure which one it would be??

The photos attached are from online, but mine should be similar if not the same.

 

[KevinC]

The Nav lights come on with the same button. Maybe it is a relay - not sure which one it would be??

The photos attached are from online, but mine should be similar if not the same.

If your nav lights are coming on then the keypad is definitely talking to the EIM and the EIM is providing the voltage. Since this is a 2003 I am guessing they are not smartcraft gauges so I would check for power to the gauges light. Since they are all probably tied together (as you mentioned) you might have to trace it back to the first feed. If you have voltage then check the bulbs. If the bulb is good I would look for a ground off the last.

I do not remember if the 280DA supported a dimmer (the keypad probably has the buttons) but it would be an easy check to make sure they are not just dimmed all the way down.

-Kevin

 

[trdehmer]

As of now, with the Nav lights on or off I am not getting +12V from the blue wire which would then light up all the gauges. These are not Smartcraft gauges. There is a dimmer on the keypad and that is turned all the way up. I can see the green LED's on the keybad dim up or down when using the dimmer buttons on the keypad.

 

[trdehmer]

Best I can tell, somehow that blue wire is now a ground wire? With Nav lights on or off on keypad that blue wire is a ground wire. I took the positive from my cigarette lighter at the helm and with + of multimeter to that and negative to the blue wire I see +12V.

The EIM in the aft is sealed.

Not sure where to even start?

 

[KevinC]

Best I can tell, somehow that blue wire is now a ground wire? With Nav lights on or off on keypad that blue wire is a ground wire. I took the positive from my cigarette lighter at the helm and with + of multimeter to that and negative to the blue wire I see +12V.

The EIM in the aft is sealed.

Not sure where to even start?

If you look in the owners manual there will be a wiring schematic. Should tell you where to blue wire ties in.

-Kevin

 

[trdehmer]

Figured it out. Blown 5A fuse in the Fore EIM for the dimmer….

 

[techmitch]

Figured it out. Blown 5A fuse in the Fore EIM for the dimmer….

That's the what, now what's the why? You said in your first post that they were intermittent before they completely stopped working. Possible causes are an intermittent short to ground or a poor connection somewhere causing excessive current/amp draw.

 

[KevinC]

Easy fixes are the best.

-Kevin

 

[ZZ13]

In my boat the dimmer switch controls voltage to a dimmer module which then controls output voltage to the backlighting. If you have the same, the dimmer module may be going bad such that it first worked intermittently then shorted internally blowing the fuse. It may happen again.

 

[trdehmer]

In my boat the dimmer switch controls voltage to a dimmer module which then controls output voltage to the backlighting. If you have the same, the dimmer module may be going bad such that it first worked intermittently then shorted internally blowing the fuse. It may happen again.

I guess that makes sense. I’m going to hope for the best on this one. Wiring everywhere I can see under dash looks good.