Galley faucet won't turn off

B

Bryank

Member
Jul 3, 2008
455
Catawba Island, OH
Boat Info
2001 410DA
Engines
Mercruiser 8.1S Horizons
My galley faucet runs continuously on the hot water side either when running water from the tank or from city water. I'm guessing I need to replace the cartridge but I am on a boat trip without access to the right part. Aside from shutting off the water, is there a workaround for this? I was looking for a shut off valve to the galley faucet but can't seem to find one. If anyone has ideas on how to turn off the water to just the galley faucet, I'm all ears.

Thanks!
 
I had a similar situation but fortunately for me I had with me a pipe cap that fit the pipe so I could remove it from the faucet and cap it. I know that really doesn't help. I have also seen someone remove the cartridge, pack it full of RTV and screw it back into the faucet. It stopped the leak but was a biatch to get all the RTV out later, so I can't really recommend that.

What you need to cap the pipe is a SeaTech End Stop for 15mm pipe. West marine has them for about $7. Part number 4509006. I would order two and a small length of pipe. I imagine that after you remove and cap the hot pipe running into the faucet that the cold water side, when opened will back flow through the hot side and leak in the cabinet below if you don't plug the fitting on the hot side of the faucet.

Hope this helps.

Pete
 
No temporary fix that I know of. The cartridge has a piece of ceramic that has probably cracked causing the problem. Any decent plumbing supply house will have the replacements.
 
Thanks, guys. Unfortunately, neither of these will work well for me right now as I'm on a boat trip (with no vehicle), but I'll hit up the hardware store when I return this weekend.
 
Bryank said:
By the way... dumb design, Sea Ray. Dumb design.
Click to expand...
Agreed. A thought for when you repair: when we replaced our head and galley faucets we added inline valves to the supply lines to have a little more flexibility in dealing with issues like what you describe.
 
what if you had some vice grips and just pinched the supply line at the manifold (or under the sink)?
 
most plumbing supply and hd carry shark bite fittings-----1/2 inch ball valve in line-- cut tubing with razor knife insert valve- operate valve as needed. These valves and fittings require no tools for installation except a razor knife or hack saw blade.

They are great to keep on board to make emergency caps or pin hole repairs.
 
Sublimetime said:
most plumbing supply and hd carry shark bite fittings-----1/2 inch ball valve in line-- cut tubing with razor knife insert valve- operate valve as needed. These valves and fittings require no tools for installation except a razor knife or hack saw blade.
Click to expand...


beautiful.

Bryan,

It's $16 at the HD on Ford Rd at I-275. I can drop one into your hand by 9 pm. If it doesn't work, it's an easy return.
 
peterkvs said:
I had a similar situation but fortunately for me I had with me a pipe cap that fit the pipe so I could remove it from the faucet and cap it. I know that really doesn't help. I have also seen someone remove the cartridge, pack it full of RTV and screw it back into the faucet. It stopped the leak but was a biatch to get all the RTV out later, so I can't really recommend that.

What you need to cap the pipe is a SeaTech End Stop for 15mm pipe. West marine has them for about $7. Part number 4509006. I would order two and a small length of pipe. I imagine that after you remove and cap the hot pipe running into the faucet that the cold water side, when opened will back flow through the hot side and leak in the cabinet below if you don't plug the fitting on the hot side of the faucet.

Hope this helps.

Pete
Click to expand...
With all that work just getting to it, besides a fortune in RTV why not fix it right? If you are away from civilization then forget it.
 
SHARK BITES (1/2") WONT WORK. You need SeaTech fittings (15mm). They are not the same size. I went through this discovery process when fabricating a bypass for my HWH and replaced my cockpit faucet.

http://www.seatechinc.com/
 
I agree, must use the Seatech metric sizes or they leak


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have used the shark bite many times without any leaks---have used the special tool to remove them for wintyerizing and reinstalled without leaks. only thing that might be different is the tubing searay used. My boat is 1990 vintage.
 
Sublime...what year is your 420DA? My 1989 340DA with grey plastic tubing (1/2") for fresh water was compatible with with Sharkbite. I did a lot of plumbing on that boat with no issues. NOw dure when but at some point SR switched to RED (hot) and BLUE (cold) tubing, which is 15mm. 15mm is 0.59", which is a substantial difference in diameter.
 
shark bites fittings are for half inch copper tubing which in reality is measured on the inside. the actual outside diameter is just onder 5/8 inch. shark bites do have a little fudge room

my boat is 1990 , has the grey tubing. . I do alot of plumbing with these fittings as i manage just under 2000 apartments. After you first install them if you get a little drip- shake wiggle and let stay under pressure for a little while, they tend to seal up.
 
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